PeterW

Got some monumental cold bridges in that design. No issue with what you’re proposing except for the fact you can never replace them if they get damaged. I would put them into a slim frame internally and step the internal brickwork back slightly so you can install them after the roof is on and also replace them in the future.

No point putting 32mm in if you have no sprinkler requirement which is usually laid as a parallel feed anyway. In any instance your restriction will be the 15mm meter orifice and the 25mm supply pipe.

Yes but you need to pipe it carefully - you may want to run both coils in series and watch how you wire the controls.

That just pushes into any old length of 110mm. Then any standard fitting will do, elbow or straight connector. If you’re in the van long term I’d also get that pipe lagging sorted out as it will freeze in winter like that !

Got a photo ..??

Also same group as Wickes.. and Benchmarx kitchens

Car charger is another consideration - some are 3Ph only and some you will need 50-60% of your feed on 1Ph so be aware of overall load.

Where in the UK are you as Western Power now install 3Ph as a matter of course for the same cost. No problem putting a single phase meter on a multi phase supply and only using one of the phases to begin with. for reference the F2040-12 requires a C-Curve MCB rated 25A from the technical guide so the maximum current would be the 23A for the entire unit.

Don’t use latex based paint either. Muuri make a good heat proof paint too that isn’t expensive https://www.tikkurila.co.uk/muuri.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAsNKQBhAPEiwAB-I5zUwRyZ_D83BxtNiVy9_3j8JbOIx79xAtZBA9lYjkR_aDiiiPGnT3GhoCuWEQAvD_BwE#1367

So the nice thing about Victron stuff is it plays nicely with other components - you can essentially stack them to give more capacity etc. and they sense each other. They do a range of mppt charge controllers and then grid tie (or shore power) inverter controllers or battery chargers so you can literally plug and play as they use VE-Bus to communicate and you add the components you want.

So that’s two components not one, unless you’re talking about a power wall that will charge batteries from 230v..? 8kW on a heat pump ..? Is that 8kW input ..?? Would have thought it was 8kW output with about 3kW max input so if you then add in a baseline load you want 5kW to cover most off grid eventualities…? The Victron Easy Solar II does everything you want in one box, including managing batteries, UPS/grid, solar and other stuff but they are just about change of £3k when you add the connectors and ancilliaries to it. https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/victron-energy-easysolar-ii-48-5000-70-50-mppt-250-100-gx-pmp482507010/

you can nearly stand on it it is that strong - nothing like plasterboard. Local Jewsons should have something similar though and a single board cut down the middle woll do you.

Multiplus is a decent unit but more aimed at a boat as that can only really handle 12v charging so he must have had those batteries in parallel. It can also do multi loads depending on whether you’re on mains or off - useful as a UPS but again you can’t put that much power through it (not enough to run a house anyway)

Internal and external lights on the same RCBO ..? Will probably end up with some nuisance trips then as external bulbs going are more common than internal.

@zoothorn you got a Wickes anywhere near you as this STS board would do https://www.wickes.co.uk/STS-Construction-Board-1200-x-800-x-12mm/p/225437 slice it down the middle with a grinder (outside..!) and you’ve got a pair of 800x600 panels that can just be screwed to the frame with a couple of stand offs made of copper tube or similar.

Contega tape is also fleece backed so if you expose it to water on one edge it will act as a capillary mat. And a horizontal gap between the edges of the cavity closer won’t allow any water across.

Cavity closer should never see water so it’s fine although what are you wanting to achieve..?

I don’t think you need the visqueen and just buy decent aluminum tape to cover the joints. As it won’t be subject to movement or light/heat variations then it will not degrade. Ultratape Rhino is good and not expensive for what it is - available in 50/75/100mm widths on 50m reels. https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/tapes-and-trims/aluminium-foil-and-heat-tape/ultratape-rhino-aluminium-silver-grey-foil-tape-75mm-x-46m

How many zones and how many thermostats and where are they..? Usual issue is the UFH flow is controlling the boiler return so the boiler isn’t firing as often as it should and the single rad zone is not receiving full flow.

UPVC is fine at 1:80 so is easy to the tank but I would also seriously consider a mains connection. If it’s over 225mm as a main run then you can saddle it as @Mr Punter said.

@ProDave the Honeywell T4 or T4R both have optimisation algorithms in them and are off the shelf but not that cheap. They are decent units too - an evolution on the older CM range. Also look quite nice !

Does the black box though not need to be aware of the internal temperature and the potentially for heat loss the next day though..? That becomes your issue which I think @TerryE has tried to crack using some basic heat Store logic. I think what you’re describing though is one of the pulse time relays that could have a pair of series wired thermostats (internal and external) that give you the pre-boost to the main programmer. something to consider is a Shelly that would allow you to do this using scenes - off the shelf component and with a bit logging and monitoring you could validate what the slab, house and external temperature are doing and then do a “fail safe” one hour boost at the last minute to finish off the heating irrespective of external temperature.

Nope. You’ll need to get some element of masonry to masonry bearing which may involve cutting the wall plate between the rafters or inserting a concrete lintel in place of the current wall plate. you’ll also need a good cavity tray installation and proper planning on how that valley will be formed and waterproofed.

You can buy new doors, and also buy door covers https://www.bes.co.uk/electric-meter-box-replacement-door-h-550mm-x-w-381mm-16880/?ref=gs&gclid=Cj0KCQiApL2QBhC8ARIsAGMm-KGYKgn0XzSvpHIY0c_0CEjLc6_xq4LHdA9msUelg16-ei26EkeNGmoaAgetEALw_wcB https://www.meterboxesdirect.co.uk/meter-box-spares.html

I wouldn’t call those minor !!! You’re running a 32kW gas combi without its flow restrictors, and you’re only heating the water by 17°C… that isn’t exactly stretching it to do 33°C uplift on standard flow (which from memory is about 21l/min max on those) so without the preheat you’re not going to get 3 decent showers running. And apologies, it was the comment in this post about combi and single shower I was referring to. I have no issues with a combi in the right place but if you want flow rates then you’re into domino setups and preheater tanks which can easily be replaced by a decent large UVC and a lot less hassle.