PeterW

Agree on the manifold and use of a pipe stat here, but do not go with self balancing actuators or anything clever with a Willis as they will potentially trip the stat if the flow reduces and you get stagnation.

You’ll have an issue finding decent fixings to install 150mm insulation under the rafters and then affix plasterboard to it. It will need a 2 layer approach and probably use of battens etc. The other issue is that using 150mm he is reducing your insulation by a fair bit - what depth are your rafters though as 100mm full fill PIR needs an air gap unless you’ve got breather membrane and counter battens installed.

Single storey extension I would go for a raft every day of the week - piling will be a huge effort for a small section of building. I’d also consider the whole lot going if you’re having to do that for such a small part - why the desire to rebuild what is there..?

Doubt you’ll get a surveyor to ignore that big horizontal crack - that could well be subsidence from leaking drains below the concrete slab all round the house. I’ve seen whole sections disappear and the concrete acting like a bridge ..! If you’re talking about underpinning then you will need deep pockets as it could be £20-30k and you’re already bidding over the odds. Working in that “tunnel” would be entirely manual and you would have to protect the the other side from subsiding when digging so it may need to be done from the inside. Not one I would be taking on unless it was £50k under the average for the area as what else needs doing if that’s the mess you can see ..?

JA have guarantees on their output too. @DragsterDriver give Wagner Renewables a call as they can do all the bits for you inc GSE and panels etc https://www.wagner-renewables.com

These are standard off the shelf items on every major manufacturers list - it’s rare for any of the motors now to be 230v, the majority are 24v and have transformers in the control boxes. And at 700m from source I am a bit surprised they have requested a mains supply. @PaulD how are you controlling the opening from the property ..? 700m is too far for CAT5, is this being done by GPRS ..?

Ask them for the spec on the gates and ask if they do a battery backup version. I’ve seen this before and you basically run a 1A battery charger on the gates (or even solar) and then use the batteries for the grunt as they only need the power to open and close. Lots of farm gates have similar setups due to exactly this reason.

Kingspan won’t pay out on the warranty so she could take it up with NHBC or the warranty provider but needs to have the service record. TBH they are a bit crap as a cylinder, and it may also be the pre-plumbed one too..? I would start by checking cylinder pressure - open the blow offs on the control block and the PRTV and see if you get the same pressure / flow. That will give an idea if it is flow related through the Control block. Next attach a hose to the drain valve on the inlet to the tank - same check, open it to see what flow / pressure you get as it should be full 3bar or same as cold. If these are all good then the blockage could be in the pipework from the tank to the outlets - has the pressure and flow got worse over time ..? That could be a pig to find, and short of removing the tank and back pressurizing the hot system to check for issues it’s going to take some serious diagnosis. Depending on where you are then the Telford and Joules pre plumbed units are good but they are going to set you back £1500 fitted.

LB are part of Lichfield Group and I don’t think that stuff is made anymore in Belper - they are a contract moulder but doubt they still make that stuff anyway as a lot of it is imported from China. You can replace with standard drawer boxes these days fairly cheaply - just make sure you buy them with the runners to match.

Ok but hinges would need to be changed here and would need to see the other side of the door. Are you planning on repainting once it’s done ..? You could find a local joinery shop or window manufacturer but I doubt there will be change from £150-200.

Where ..?? Is there a master box somewhere and where does the line come into the house ..?

So you don’t have a phone line ..?? Or is this an internal extension ..?? I would be removing it … nothing past the master box “belongs” to BT and this looks like an extension cable.

Only way you’ll get that down is use 50mm metal studs in 75mm track and staggered alternately - will be 105mm and will also need 50mm acoustic insulation in the void plus sound block board. All in all you’ll get more sound transfer through the door.

Start with an email here if you don’t think they are listening as they have a statutory requirement to respond within 20 days. It will also ensure they are aware you have given all documents and information necessary so that they can process your application outside of the window if necessary. DRHIResolutions@ofgem.gov.uk

So I doubt it is solid oak as in a single piece thickness as it would be inhererently unstable. It would also move and bend with moisture in the air and the different humidity levels between indoors and outdoors so in reality it is likely built up of an oak frame with other oak laminations. What you are seeing is the discoloration from a lower layer or potentially a glue layer reaction - that would show in the way you have described if there is a 3-4mm top veneer over the core. First stop is to go back to the supplier with the photos and the exact product you have used at their suggestion and advise you have issues. Then ask for their advise on what to do next, and get them to sort the problem. Sanding could make it worse and expose more glue, and you may need to potentially strip the door and use a different oil so that is all for the manufacturer to resolve, not you !!

Please read the post below carefully, and consider how you are posting and responding here. This is not an extension of political discussion from elsewhere.

Heard that a few times - down here there are a Toolstation, Screwfix and CEF within 500 yards of each other and you see a lot of the smaller contractors not using CEF any more as prices are better in the chains

So they changed the rules on tank ownership a while back, and I’m pretty sure after 5 (??) years the tank becomes yours and you can use any supplier. Downside is that it has to be monitored and inspected and you need a contract for that in case you ever want to reuse. Calor may charge you less if you excavate it but it needs a GSR to disconnect it even if empty

What is the spec here ..???? I thought you had a lot of the materials on site ..? And then it’s just adding 1.2mm EPDM to the top of it all ..? You say 160sqm on a 3m building, is the scaffold up for them or not ..? Is it an odd shape or lots of detail work ..? Even £150/m sounds high as the material cost for the rubber isn’t much more than £12-1500 so even the other guy is pushing the boundaries on that.

Sorry but no-one is profiteering here, they are quoting for a job and tbh I don’t think they want it. Most of the contractors I know are flat out and don’t want small jobs that need a lot of detail work doing so will quote off the scale as they know you won’t take them up on it.

The HV pylon network is part of the Critical National Infrastructure so is exempt in a number of areas from items such as wayleaves. Getting a pylon removed would be near impossible unless it was deemed dangerous and in all likelihood it would just get replaced like for like.

It means that you need to do it unless there is an alternate agreed method. You need to go back to the statute and check the actual reference (top section in all the approved documents) and then the rest of the document is guidance as to how to achieve it. In reality, most BCOs want to see it done as per regs as they don’t like non standard details where they need to take decisions.

So a standard 3 lever will be fine but your issue is 60mm is the euro standard that’s why you will struggle. If you go with 57mm then you have lots more options and you should be able to work with the 3mm difference

@Adsibob why are the numbers of levers relevant to you ..??

Wickes off the shelf is as cheap as B&Q and better quality. B&Q use recycled toffee wrappers in their fittings …