PeterW

Think you need to check your measurements as 38mm on the flat is too little and 63 is too much if you’re going down the route of 50mm (which can be 48-53mm) PIR. I am thinking flat plats of Ply - think of a T shape - which will also give you some rigidity.

Only minor amendment I would make is to make your 13mm spacers from ply, and make them wider than your studs. Unless there is some really (structural) reason, 4x2 on the flat is overkill and you could use 3x2 and then make the frame on the floor. Put your membrane over and staple it then use say 6” strips of ply at each stud top to bottom, then when you stand it up against the wall your insulation will push tight against the ply and not bridge the very small gap. Belt and braces would be 13mm ply with DPC stapled down the back of it too. How is this being held against the wall ..?

I I’d want a vapour barrier in there - could be as simple as Aluminium foil taping all the joints on the 25mm layer as it is installed.

Need to probably clarify what you mean here as a circulation pump in a sealed system can be mounted half way up a wall or on the first floor of a house and still drive the flow of the system. If not, they would need to be mounted at the lowest point of the system to actually work.

Ouch !!! That’s about 10-15°C more than it should be depending on the floor finishes.

No such thing as suction head in this system as it’s all ground floor, plus the pump should be more than adequate and in any case these are all 5 or 6m head pumps.

@joe90 I’d start by replumbing the buffer and leaving everything else as is. The buffer - either plumbed how @Nickfromwales or I said will then just become part of the system and you’ll have a lot more system content to be flowing around but first off it will either prove or disprove you have an issue.

Temporary Building Supply is the usual term. Just check they have actually opened the valves properly.

Is there any blending valve on the manifolds as that looks like it’s dumping boiler temp water into the floors ..?? The thumping is probably hammer as the valves all start to open - if they are old then it could be slow opening valves causing the problem. Can you take a photo of the top of the valve ..?

The thermal bridge is tiny - usually get left or if you really want to cover it you can glue something to it like @nod says

Tempest should be ok - you could re-plumb it quickly to see if removing the coil helps. Add a tee to the inlet and outlet and then connect the flow from the ASHP to the top connection then on to the manifold, plumb the return from the manifold to the bottom inlet on the buffer then on to the ASHP return. The coil becomes redundant at this point, but it means the pumps need to be running roughly the same speed.

Really pleased if that is all sorted !!! And your grade is 3 at best, mildly acidic clayey loam, suitable for grass and grazing…. ? Hope it all comes through on Monday !

@nod you may want to check the planning portal for some interesting information on your application .. sent you a PM..!

Turn the ASHP pump up slightly - sounds like the UFH is drawing heat too fast

I use British Hardwood https://www.britishhardwood.co.uk/ordering-and-faqs

When you demolish the property it will be removed from the VOA register as you will need to notify the Council. On completion, this triggers the new valuation as re-entry into the register.

First things to check are the static and dynamic water pressure and the flow rate of the new supply. Then decide on your water heating strategy, and then design the hot and cold system around this. Manifolds won’t fix poor flow or pressure, so you need to start from the beginning.

Truly PVC sell everything you need https://www.trulypvc.com/window-door-parts/board-sill-trims/150mm-sill-end-caps-pair

glad you found that !! The issue with some of these Heatmiser stats is they need to bend the cables at 180 degrees to get into the connectors and they get continually flexed when the face places are installed.

I would just put a 4x2 framework over the top of all of that and where possible screw it to the existing framework plus the wall using frame cramps to allow you to plumb it perfectly. Then glue and screw the boards to the framework, and then tile it. That won’t go anywhere and will give you the chance to run any other additional services before you board out and it will cover up a multitude of sins…

£50 for the bottle and £67 for the refill (East Mids)

New or exchange ..?

Go for 150mm cavity; EPS blown graphite beads and then line internally with 37.5mm insulated plasterboard, ideally fixed tight to the blocks for air tightness.

You can always pull the wiring and check by adding a short plug socket and wiring it direct to see if it moves

Are these 240v actuators or 12v ..?