PeterW

And if you don’t use glue with Egger, there is no warranty irrespective of the failure …

Depending on the profile, you’ll need to pin it to hold it while it sets as gypsum coving is heavy. So it’s a 2 man job, probably needs a small hop up or tower set up and it will need to be reset for every wall. So a day or so to fit it all and then go back and clean up any joints etc plus pin holes isn’t unreasonable to do a decent job.

@ToughButterCup Egger MIs… Here…

But a radial is just rhat - it should feed a single oven via a single RCBO and an isolator. If you have 4 ovens, it is 4 radials. What it sounds like is that you want multiple ovens on the same circuit, and you need to be able to isolate each one (20A DP switch per oven) via an accessible switch. That would need a 4mm cable to the first point and then spur off for each oven with a switch, and for 4 ovens you need to consider diversity but you could even need a 6mm feed.

Why upgrade to 4mm for a single oven ..? A 2.5mm cable will handle 23-25A, and a number of the Bosch units come with a fixed lead that is only 1.5mm anyway. Up to 4.5kW then you are in the boundaries of a 20A RCBO, 20A isolator and 2.5mm cable

+1 to this. You normally glue and screw down the first board, the rest are glued only.

Ok so all the main players around you do it. It’s a free flowing product that you can use a bull float or screed bar on and it levels pretty well. You can tile direct or use a thin layer of self leveling compound depending on the finish you’re laying.

Topflow - Tarmac Agilia - Aggregate Industries MaxiHorizontal - Maxi Self compacting concrete or flowing concrete are the terms you need to search for. Where are you in the UK..?

If you have min 100mm for screed then just use one of the self compacting / flowing concrete products as they are a lot cheaper than 100mm of liquid screed. Concrete also doesn’t need the laitence removing prior to tiling and there is no real need to power float unless you really want to.

@zoothorn so looking at this it’s a pretty small stove but I would suggest you need to have a think about a few things : - you’ll need to protect the walls and floor - and if you want to bring it up higher then a plinth will be needed that is heat proof - you want something relatively light but nice looking, so consider stone paving for both hearth and wall - going through the roof, you need to make the chimney safe but watertight, so you’ll need something like this What stove pipe do you plan to use as ideally you want twin wall to go through the roof as it’s cooler but you may find it costs as much for the chimney as you’ve paid for the stove !!

Ok but fig1 needs pipe breaks and flow through - fig4 doesn’t ..?? It’s pretty much the tank and two tees and two stubs of pipe to fit it - flow doesn’t go through it as in fig1.

Just to add … always put the strainer / filter etc on the return to the boiler or ASHP so you catch the crud before it enters the heat exchanger.

@Temp that is a really useful image - fig4 is my go to design (without the spring non return valves ..!) and is dead easy to do. @Soulfish not sure why you thing fig1 will take up less space ..? It’s easy to plumb and very simple. i would go with 100litre buffer - not expensive and all pretty standard so not much to choose between them tbh

Ok so the buffer will never be at a static 36°C as it will get cold water from every return so your idea of the feed being always at a constant temperature won’t work. This is why you need the blending valve.

@nod yep will do. Have you had a quote from UK Power Networks to install single or 3 phase ..? I’ve got a link to your PP somewhere so will use the site plan - have you got a water connection .? And no gas ..?

Please go and beat your plumber to a soggy death with his blowtorch. You can ask a lot of people on here about the difference and why you need pumps at every manifold along with a blending valve. The buffer will soon deplete and you won’t have 35°C water in it so you need to heat slightly higher and then let the valves do the work.

Cramer make rotating nozzles and they are very good - makes it easy to get into this sort of area. Not cheap but if you rotate back to “straight” you can pull any set sealant out when it’s dried. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07L4S6QD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_432TKJ82GH02BD50DMD8

Suppose it depends on the redundancy you want - I would get a 3Ph install to a dedicated kiosk just inside the gate and then run a phase to the garage with a charge point on it, another to the house, and then have the 3rd as a “spare” which could provide a dedicated charge point somewhere on the driveway if needed. I know that Western Power are now installing 3Ph by default around here for all new connections which is more than likely to support car charging.

Direct buried H6942XL or similar 25A 6mm2 35A 10mm2 45A 10mm2 Do you need a car charger at the garage also as that can be the issue with this sort of supply.

Mixer wants to be after the buffer but before the pump. So it can either go at the manifold or at the buffer end, wherever you’ve got more room. Nest wiring depends on how it is wired and where the Nest Heatlink unit is - they come with a set of instructions but if it’s the single channel one from memory you wire the pump neutral to the base neutral and then there are 3 connections for switching and it’s live to common then out to the pump from switched live. Without seeing which one it is I would be guessing though. sorting this is a couple of hours for a decent plumber, not difficult to resolve.

That’s could well be short cycling. Unless you sit and watch it and time it, then the boiler “running constantly” could well be the pump overrun or similar that happens with a lot of condensing boilers. The stat will cut the burners and the pump continues, the burner then restarts and it cycles all over again. Without being spanner’s on to this it is difficult to diagnose but for me the buffer needs to be whole circuit, the tank stat needs to control the boiler (as per @Temp) and the nest needs to control the UFH pump and it all needs to be blended.

Ok so the hydraulic separation is pointless here - the boiler is short cycling and costing you more as it isn’t getting the heat into the tank and it needs to be replumbed. @joe90 has just had a near identical issue with buffer and mixer / manifold etc but in your instance the wiring is wrong. The Nest should be controlling the UFH pump, and the cylinder stat should control the boiler. The way it is wired currently the boiler stat is what is controlling the flow and I’ve no idea who has come up with the 40°C idea but that’s just wrong on every level …

Box traps inside the ASHP and outside it properly baited will sort this. Then ensure the ASHP is sealed up tight.

Issue #1 Issue #2 I would hazard a guess that the tank stat is a bimetallic one so has around a +/-3°C hysteresis so is randomly switching on an off. The tank will get to 60°C very slowly, and I would also suggest that the tank stat control is your first issue. Questions - — who installed it ..? — is the buffer direct or indirect plumbed ..? Does it have a coil (photo of the buffer will help) Categorically no, and you won’t get a boiler to run that low, it won’t condense and your gas usage will go up not down !

+1 to doing this - splaying top and bottom adds significant light into a room. The only difference when they are low in a roof is that I make the bottom level as a cill if it is usable or if it is to be used as a fire egress window.