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Found 7 results

  1. I have my thermal store in although not heated yet. First shower is in and I am a little concerned that the pressure/flow is low and it drops noticeably when you are looking for hot water (even though it isn't hot yet). Water is a balanced supply through a thermal store for hot and balanced off a multibloc pressure reducing and relief valve for the cold. Pressure at mains outside is 4-6 bar and flow somewhere around 40l/min. Can't keep the water in the bucket when running full bore at the start Haven't had a chance to chat with plumber yet as it is the holidays in NI but feels like the water system is strangled when it is within the house. Anyone got any pointers for me.
  2. Hi Nick I have a similar problem with a slow pressure drop with a new Vaillant Ecotec Pro 28. Daft question but how do you find the leaks and where are they? Before I had this new boiler fitted we thought there was an underfloor pipe leak as two radiators required constant bleeding. All radiators work fine now except one upstairs which is a bit slow but we don't get any air in them at all now.Any help much appreciated as I must have topped up the pressure about 6-10 times in the last 3 months. The plumber says it's not the boiler but that was some time ago. I am also a little concerned about the use of leak sealer. Plumbers must have put about 3 lots in during the last 6 months but so far as I know Vaillant do not prohibit this. If anyone knows otherwise please let me know thanks. Last but not least, I can't find the PRV on my boiler, there certainly aren't any external pipes. All pipes are well insulated and I am wondering if it was plumbed into the condensation pipe which seems to be constantly dripping down the drain. It's a large diameter pipe so no problems with icing up ;-)Thanks
  3. I've started designing a remote alarm/air pump pressure system, prompted by this series of posts quoted from the closed Ebuild forum: Following on from the above, I decided it would be nice to have our alarm relocated with an indoor display, that would not only provide the "low pressure" and "high level" alarms at a convenient location, but with the addition of an indoor pressure display, to give early warning of sediment build up, so avoiding (hopefully) the problem that Peter reported. I have the pressure sensors, have tested them and the interface to a wireless data link that will comfortably work for 50 to 60m through walls. I have three choices. I can make the outdoor unit larger and fit a battery a solar panel, and have the indoor unit as a hand-held battery powered unit that could interrogate the external unit on request. The power demands make this arrangement impractical for giving a real-time alarm, it would rely on being interrogated to find out whether things were still OK, its major shortcoming. The next option is to have a solar powered external unit transmitting to a mains powered internal unit. This would provide continuous monitoring and alarm, at the cost of a solar powered external unit that would be relatively large (because of the battery and solar panel size) an would cost more, plus the battery would need replacement every few years. The final option is to have a mains powered unit inside and outside the house. This would probably be the best solution if there is mains power available at the treatment plant, as it would be the most reliable. In terms of power, it would use less than 1W at each end. This post is really to see if anyone is interested, as I'm making one for our build, and it's very little trouble to make one or two extra. I'm probably going to opt for mains powered at both ends, as that suits us better, but there really isn't much to choose in terms of hassle to make other types. Anyone interested?
  4. .....I thought to myself, as I instructed my man to cut the excess tail off a coil of Wunda UFH pipe. He cut some more, the noise got much worse. What’s going on ?!? We hadn’t hooked it up yet so a leak was impossible.......and then I twigged. The good folk at Wunda now sell the coils of UFH pipe pressurised with compressed air, and when I say pressurised, I mean pressurised. If you cut straight through you’d better be holding both pieces as it’s like stabbing a car tire ( probably ). They must have it close to 6 or more bar guessing by just how much air came out of a 100m coil. I then noticed the pipe ends. They’ve basically got plastic plugs glued / crimped into each end to keep the pressure up and keep any crud out, and I assume this pre-pressurising benefits in a couple of ways. Wunda know the pipe is sound at dispatch, you know it’s sound when you get it, and if dopy gits with long screws or multi tools inadvertently damage the pipe after installation / floors down etc there will be an undeniable “whoosh” of compressed air to let them know. Can’t help thinking that would also be of benefit during Ufh at the slab stage too as the pipe is likely to be a bit less susceptible to compression perhaps. Folly, or first class. ?
  5. Hey Googling it but can’t find it ! want a device that cuts off water flow after say 10 mins , then resets after a period of time . Trying to control how long people shower for in a rental property where I pay the bills !! cheers
  6. In this 'renoextension' the original MDPE supply was 20mm which I had to pull out during structural works and now looking to pull back in. It's a private water supply coming in from landowner next door in 20mm MDPE (no chance to replace that all the way to source at the moment). Not noticed any issues with water pressure living in the static, but I recall reading somewhere on BH that it's probably best to opt for 22mm in the house itself (after stopcock) if there is a chance of low incoming pressure. The landowner next door rents out various commercial units units next door (so there is a potential for a drop in pressure but I haven’t noticed so far) so just want to insure myself against pressure issues. I need to get my UFH pressure tested soon, so just need a connection in the house again and may as well get it right from the very beginning. I was looking to go for 20mm MDPE to 22mm but options seemed very limited (though typically did find an option last night, typically here I can either stick with the 20mm MDPE or would it be best to replace my incoming MDPE from the boundary with 25mm? Not sure what I'm going for in terms of UVC, boiler, TS etc etc but was reading that 20mm is a safer bet (for runs to bath at least), but that will be more questions in another post. TIA
  7. Old edwardianl house with a forty year old central heating system. Modern Vaillant combi boiler that has to be regularly repressurised with mains water. This suggests a weeping joint in the system somewhere - but there us no visible evidence - may well be under the ground floor floorboards (or elsewhere). What is the best approach to finding the source of the leak? Are there any tools available whch I could hire for instance?