PeterW

I think I know what he has done ..!! Those tanks have a pair of pumps - one does the UFH and the other does the plate heat exchanger for the DHW which is triggered by a flow switch. When water flows through the switch, the pump comes on and the heat from the TS is circulated. If he has mixed this up then you will get the problem you state. Ad @ProDave says, the heating boiler needs to be on its own timer (it’s only 0v dry contacts) but should be on its own supply. @Nickfromwales want to add anything ..??

Push fit.... Ideally you need to connect above slab if possible, or use 110mm below slab and use an entry fitting to do the transition.

Well that’s me and a few others going to somewhere warm when we shuffle off this mortal coil The issue is when you have passive level insulation and an over size WBS - the heat has nowhere to go.

You can get a decent build down to a very low score just with attention to detail and a few rolls of airtight tape. Windows and doors are your problem, as are any service penetrations. The problem you will face is the stove will dictate the location of the vent - some have below, some have rear entry vents. You may need to decide that first.

Some of the issues with B&B start when you have integral garages where the beams need to be closer and deeper and the blocks on their short side. We looked at this as Building bear trees so needed heave protection however the BCO wasn’t worried in the slightest as on sand with a very low clay content. B&B in this situation needs quite a lot of detailing - from memory ours would have needed a 180mm deep beam over 4.5m with blocks on 215mm width and then a 100mm mesh reinforced concrete screed over for a garage 3.6m x 4.5m Counter that with the solution we used which was poured fibre reinforced concrete with two 8x4 of 150mm EPS “former” in the centre under the DPM which has basically created a 300mm ring beam under the edge of the garage slab. Cost was about a cubic metre extra of concrete and two sheets of insulation.

@newhome do you have any invoices for the heating controls ..?

@ProDave the Heatweb units pre-blend the water on the thermal store for the UFH. One of the red mixer valves will be doing that.

Egger sagen 45 Tage mit 20% Regen, aber da wir weniger hatten, war es näher bei 70. Glücklich jetzt mein deutscher Freund ..?

Only in a very tightly sealed house - if you go airtight then you do need some sort of feed as BRegs irrespective of the MVHR issue once below a certain limit.

So the stats look like a Heatmiser Neo or earlier system with the Touch Screen programmer. Is there a black box in the heating wiring system somewhere ..? That will help to sort the actual model and get the right manual. Thermal store is a a pretty standard one by the looks of it - Heatweb made them from the late 80s. Still in business and still service them too so nothing lost there. Just go to the website on the tank. The plastic tank is a header tank - no issue with that. The worry for me is the new thermostat as that shouldn’t be needed. The Heatmiser system is pretty good once set up but takes time. That looks like the new plumber has added controls over the existing ones which may have added to the problems. The solar thermal...?? Well that looks like it needs a refresh ..!!

Depends on the output as it will need to either have an external air feed or a decent flow rate into the room you have the stove in.

I pay promptly - and still get people back. I’m also flexible on trades taking days off so this week I’m down 2 days but that means I can catch up on some other jobs before the plasterer is back. Maybe I’m lucky ..??

+1 to that ..! Mine is fab ...! LABC round here get very mixed reviews ...

That’s music to my ears as I can now justifiably go down the drive to a reasonably low ie 1200mm chamber, and then drop into the sewer at 45 degrees with the last bit at 90 to the sewer ..! Result ..!!!

Weekly check is an odd one and only ever seems to happen on large sites. I prefer a daily check, and I used to go over all of ours with a hammer and knock the wedges in every day to check it was all tight. Its a 10 minute job but really makes the whole lot feel safer.

Out of interest is the rule still there about rooms below a certain height are counted as reduced footprint..? Doesn't it also remove internal garages too..? We have circa 168sqm, but 18sqm of that is garage and 30sqm is less than 1.2m ceiling height.

I’d just tape around the inner joint of the box and then tape over the lid when it’s on ...

First job is to dig around that joint at least 12” each direction including downwards. Then pour clean water around that joint and then remove it. You do not want crud and sand getting into the joint or the pipes. Thats 99% a Plasson MDPE to lead joint - Plasson olives are split so should come off quite easily with a small screwdriver in the split and twist it slightly.

Used Egger Protect P5 bonded to the posijoists and it was out in the elements for a fair while with no real issues. It was specified as part of the posijoist system as that is how they get the strength.

Are we talking the main supply ducts to the units or the radial ducts to the rooms here ..?? For supply ducts you can buy nitrile rubber insulation in sheets to cut to size. Doesn’t take much and it can be quickly and easily done, use EvoStik solvent glue on the joints and do it in two layers. If you can’t either InsulTube or Armaflex sheet in small quantities then you can just using camping roll mats but they need to be covered with something non-flammable.

And safety specs .... as concrete dust in the eyes is not nice ...

If the return points away from the return port on the hot water cylinder then leave it connected - likewise, check the flow one isn’t pointing the wrong way as you need to leave one connected.

Ok so the simple check is to disconnect the live to one of them in the wiring box and see what happens .... As @JSHarris said, there is one in the box itself however the wiring diagram they provide shows a second pump. My guess is both are the wrong way round ... HP Pump pushes >>>> Pump A (F) pushes >>>> Pump B (R) pushes <<<< net total is low flow and potentially increased pressure on the output side of the pump where the pressure switch is which then shows as a fault ...

Wonder if using an ion type “spike” generator would be enough to get any smoke particles to bond to a carbon foam filter..?? I know they normally need quite low flows but could it work ..?

What you are doing is far from conventional ..! The conventional method is the waterproof membrane method and then additional concrete, what GRP and EDPM are designed as are final finish layer.