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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    Over thinking it... First IC at the back left, pick up the kitchen and use as rodding point. Run under slab to pick up SVP for downstairs WC Second SVP into rest bend to back of sunroom, all meeting in an IC at the front. Allows you to rod both branches and down the drive. Job done ...
  2. PeterW
    .... you would need your head examining ... Speak to these lovely people about their packages, then ring me about taking mine off my hands .... https://www.scaffoldingsupplies.co.uk/products/details/3450.html
  3. PeterW
    The question here is what are you trying to achieve ..? 12v is not a good voltage for anything DC in a house, it just happens to be a standard that’s been around for a while. If you really want DC then 36-48v is optimum and most of the PV panel providers would agree. If you are talking offgrid then that is a different concept to using off the shelf technology that is a replacement for 220VAC. Your next question would be capital vs ongoing. 220v LED bulbs are becoming cheaper and cheaper. 220VAC switching is cheap and needs no special products unless you get into complex dimmer circuits or HA (ask @Barney12 about this..) so unless you’re looking to massage a green ego or a take to the hills, what is currently on offer is the best you can go for.
  4. PeterW
    If you want something removable then drill the hole and inject a bit of foam to stop the board bowing and leave it to set. Re-drill the hole and use a frame fixer and it will be very solid ..! You can unscrew it and drill the top off the plug and fill the hole and no-one will know it’s been there
  5. PeterW
    I’ve got one of these but before I got one I used a bolt in the drill and the head makes enough space for the wings. http://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/product/20mm-undercutting-tool/ The only problem on the early ones was the screw heads shearing off when you opened the wings but tbh they don’t need to be open more than 1/6th turn to grip properly.
  6. PeterW
    For D&D we use these. Fitted some fairly big rads with them and they are fine - they do a cutter to clean behind the board if you do hit a dab. On the latest one we have ave used this stuff . I was skeptical and so was my plasterer but even he said it leaves a very solid wall feeling. It also brings the blocks into contact with the board pretty much so you can use ordinary plugs.
  7. PeterW
    @lizzie who provided the assurance and who is causing delays ..? Have you mentioned consequential loss to your builder. .?
  8. PeterW
    Lever on the right is the manual override. HSA3ND is a a simple diverter head with no microswitch. Need to have a look at what is actually triggering that heat pump to fire ..!
  9. PeterW
    You can’t use a float valve as you have to have an air gap. Non-submersible are better as you can get a pressure tank version that gives you 3 bar easily for less than £100. No fishing in tanks either when it goes wrong ... just need a simple level indicator and you are done.
  10. PeterW
    Screws are 99.9% airtight when they are done up tight. I wouldn’t be worrying ..! Do you know the stud layout or do you have the OSB lining on your build ..?
  11. PeterW
    Seems reasonable to me ..!!
  12. PeterW
    50mm bed of pea gravel is fine
  13. PeterW
    I did the same - got Cottage reclaim blend from TP at £465/Thou and got my bricky on them at £500/thou laid. They were a bit of a mare as it was +/-15mm on pretty much every dimension but they look good now they are done. We reckon we nearly broke the hiab on the wagon as they could barely pick them up - guessing they were 3lb each on some of them !
  14. PeterW
    You’re only seeing the ones driving round - most crawl the planning portals looking for conditions where the bricks are specified as a certain brand and brick ..! it means your ability to negotiate is lessened, but tbh most of the merchants these days are on naff all margin on bricks, the blocks make the money
  15. PeterW
    You need to start by asking the question as to where will moisture get in from ..?? Continually venting cavities has been proven to be inaccurate - just look at how we went from 9” solid to a pair of 4” “cavity” walls to stop damp and now we pump them full of insulation ..! You may need a small vent every so often but I would want that filled to stop wasps etc getting into the gaps
  16. PeterW
    They need 3-4” around them and 6” over the top and if you fill them to the brim then they can easily take the weight. A tank riser for a 300mm IC over the cap will give you plenty of access.
  17. PeterW
    Ikea do carcasses without doors, as do Wickes and most of the sheds. I’m off to see the DIY Kitchens showroom on Thursday so if you like @divorcingjack I can take some photos and pull apart the odd display kitchen... OH will probably disown me at that point ..!!
  18. PeterW
    Welcome... Assume this is in Scotland..? Is it vastly above ground level or attached to the house as external landscaping is not subject to regs normally...?b
  19. PeterW
    They are a total rip off... The tanks can be had direct from Balmoral or others for 1/3 price of the specialists. The pumps are Polish, the only clever bit is the electronics but tbh @JSHarris could knock something up with a PIC in an hour to do the same..... you need an airgap for your filler - just use a Hotun tundish - and a valve.... Its not rocket science ! Contrary to popular belief you can bury IBCs, but they need to be encased in concrete. The wire frame acts like reinforcing and you just fill them with water before you cast the concrete and they are good for life.
  20. PeterW
    My diamond Stihl Saw blade is 2.5mm thick so on a standard brick that is slightly more than 1%.... Its the time more than anything however @Brickie will be along shortly but if he does what we do then we line 10 up at once in a jig (yes this is an old pallet offcut) and cut the lot at once. Clean straight line and no idiot labourer holding the brick with his foot when he has the Stihl saw 2 " away....
  21. PeterW
    Chances are it’s jammed if it’s in the road so get a crowbar into the little slot in the middle of the long edge and lever it unless you’ve got a very big pry bar ..?? try pulling one corner up with a key too but don’t slide the lid as it will just drop into the manhole ..!!!
  22. PeterW
    Thanks @JSHarris - what is the outer dimension on the flexi pipes ..? Just wondering if 22mm insulation will fit.
  23. PeterW
    @Lynford can you get a photo of the 3 way valve model or type ..? That looks like a Danfoss diverted valve which makes me think it’s a W Plan even more ....
  24. PeterW
    Right.. that statement doesn’t make sense ..!! - firstly, in picture 4 of your general pipework post there is a 3 way valve - secondly, that’s a heat pump indirect cylinder which means it has a coil. Just out of interest, check the lever is free and the 3 way valve isn’t stuck. Running at 38c or so, and with the hot water as priority but being heated by the immersion, this would mean the heating doesn’t kick in. It may also mean the 3 way valve is back to front or is in “W Plan” configuration. My gut feel is the 3 way valve is stuck, and this is in permanent DHW config but the immersion has taken over.
  25. PeterW
    @JSHarris do you have a link..?? I need a couple that size for my ASHP.
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