PeterW

Proper Kwikstage castors are about £45 per corner and have the jackleg built into them. I considered cutting down some spare legs and adding heavy duty castors as that came in much cheaper. On those linked, Kwikstage has an internal diameter of around 41mm and external is 49mm so you need something that fits tightly otherwise it will bend.

+1 to QuoteRack for non-standard insurance of any type. I’ve used them a few times and they have a really broad broker network that does a very good job.

Ok so there is a difference between access and parking ...!! Right of access allows them to pass over the land, not to park or work on it. Doing that breaches the covenant or agreement so it becomes null in law. Are they accessing some sort of storage compound ..?

Stack ventilation Essentially it’s to the bottom of the cellar and goes out higher up in the property to allow the cellar to naturally ventilate.

We have beads from JJ Crump - was very quick and efficient. Can’t see why you couldn’t use it for TF but you may need to have OSB both sides or at least have the plasterboard fitted before they install.

Ok... Change the layout of the downstairs shower room so that it loses a bit of wardrobe from the bedroom but the shower and loo are moved to give you 2 doors into it so it’s a jack and Jill type downstairs WC but also ensuite to the guest bedroom Flip the long run of cupboards in the kitchen to put the fridge to the top, then storage and ovens - makes working from hob to oven easier and safer and keeps your “triangle” in form. Upstairs - swap the study for the family bathroom otherwise bed 2 has a long way to go ..! make the master bedroom ensuite a bit wider - you have the space - and line the wall up with the dressing room wall. Check the ceiling height in that dressing room - it may be lower than you envisage. Other than that - nice plans ..!

We have converted the old inspection pit in the garage to a cellar - this was part of the original garage and when we took the old slab up we cast a new lid on it and insulated over the top. Edge must be near 280mm thick of concrete and underground is a steady 9c permanently.... just need to sort the door, the steps, the floor, the rack .......

please don’t ..... they clip on, there is a small screwdriver slot on the bottom that allows you to lever it off. But there is nothing to disconnect inside other than 3 wires - two are power, one is signal ... mix them up and it’s bye bye controller and possibly the other bits so may be worth leaving alone ....

Welcome what sort of consultant have you approached for the price you’ve been quoted..? Planning..? Architect ..? It will make a difference as to what you will get.

@Ralph ask @Stones about ASHP as he’s much further north and has no problems. A lot is about setup.

It will if you get the air infiltration rate down. We’ve spent about £250 on Gerband tape and it’s made a massive difference. There is no perceptible draught anywhere in the build, and the 3G uPVC windows are holding their own. In fact we have snow sat on the outside pane and the inside is reflecting the warmth of your hand. It was time consuming and fiddly job but it’s made a “standard” brick and block build remarkably warm and comfortable - even with no heating ..!!

Welcome ..! What is the floor build up ..? You can easily get to 0.11 with 300mm EPS or 150mm or PIR done properly. Roof and walls are ok, but that glazing doesn’t get close to English regs from memory never mind Scottish ones ..! As others have said, good 2G is 1.2, and 3G can be below 0.9 however a large expanse will be expensive. I’d also look at that air figure as that is standard not anything done “properly” and Timber Frame is easy to get airtight. £3-400 of tape and membrane will get you well below that and the SAP will be much better. Do you have plans you can post ..?

Have you tried Ctrl+Alt+Delete and start again ....???

OK The Wiring Regulations require that wiring is clipped or supported at minimum x-mm intervals and other such things which @ProDave or @Onoff can probably quote in their sleep. How you achieve that is entirely up to you (or your electrician) as long as it meets or exceeds the requirements. DHW and Heating circuits don't need to meet as stringent guidelines although the Domestic Services Handbook would advise good practice.

He probably needs to speak to Wavin about this.... Hep2O provides a 50 year guarantee - no single copper fitting is guaranteed past 30 years, with Tectite being guaranteed for that ... which ironically has nitrile seals in the fittings....

None of the above...! Sparks used either cable clips on the sides of the posijoists, or where a bundle of cable was created then there is a standard plastic coated strap used to keep them tidy - all standard detail as per the site guide which is the requirement of the Wiring Regulations. That is what you have to follow - not a joist manufacturers installation guide as they are not the expert in this case

Soil pipes need to run parallel to any joist unless you add it when building the floor otherwise you have to leave the end off the building....

That is very 1960's copper and traditional build spec... The current way is through or along the joists using Hep2O or similar, transition to copper if needed for aesthetics. Most plumbers also go 50mm down these days so you can't hit the pipe with a screw or nail.

Quite the contrary !! Standard detail for wiring follows the 17th Edition Site guide - it doesn't care if you use any type of joist, it specifies the requirements for the wiring. We did a full first fix wiring on a 3 bed 165sqm house in 3 days with PosiJoists. First fix plumbing took 3 days - 2 days for the new side, and 1 day as there is part conversion and we had to route through and around existing solid 8x2 joists. MVHR took half a day to run the ducts - no drilling required, I would hazard a guess that using I-Beams we would have added 35-50% to this, and solids would add 100% to this. Mitek, Wolf and other posi systems are used in pretty much every volume house builder estate now - its the norm not the exception

I have a 1" scar in my scalp from the edge of one of these from 8 years ago !!

Loopcad can be downloaded and used free for 30 days. It allows you to work out heat loss and also temperature for flow plus the spacing needed. Mine has 3 different loop spacings dependent on the location and the heat required to go with a consistent flow temperature. The downside is that it is a US programme so you need to do some conversion to get the right values for insulation etc.

16mm doesn’t fit into ordinary fittings without using connectors that pretty much negate the cost saving of using up bits that are left. I’ve used Pert-Al-Pert from Wunda - I used loopcad to do the design then bought reels based on the cutting list it provides. Was pretty accurate too.

Usual suspects are WundaTrade and eBay ... and then you get into the PEX vs Pert discussion ..!

Found This... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/measuring-practice-for-voa-property-valuations/code-of-measuring-practice-definitions-for-rating-purposes

The installation guides show how you should do it - cables can be clipped to the webs, they have rounded edges.