Lynford

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  1. That’s from the heat pump manual Peter, yes.
  2. Hugely disappointing but glad I found this in the manual before we tried to switch the valve around ! Just confuses me more why we only get heat at the rads when the valve is manually moved over......
  3. @JSHarris @Nickfromwales Gentlemen, thank you very much. Now to work out how to spin it around without filling the bungalow with water ! The feed to the valve has an isolator underneath the pump, I’m hoping I can knock that off and I won’t get too much of a soaking.
  4. Sorry for taking a while to come back Peter. Yep, I can move the stem easily by hand and can feel it move when I switch the HW on & off.
  5. Morning all. Been off the case for a few weeks while the FIL had someone else look at it but had another go yesterday. It’s not getting anymore straightforward and has made me realise I should have started a lot more basic. First of all the HW timer was programmed all over the shop, on several days it was on for a total of 13hrs between 4am & 11pm. As this overrides the heating I thought I’d found the issue (plus the heating timer was set up all over the place as well) I still only seemed to get heat at the rads with the 3 port valve overridden using the lever. Apparently this valve was changed or repositioned when the HW cylinder was changed. It’s difficult to get in there to see but I got my phone in to get a picture.........I think the valve could have been fitted the wrong way round ? The system apparently was working before the HW cylinder was changed. I thought (think) that B on the valve should go to the HW cylinder ? Whereas it disappears into the floor so I think it goes to the rads. Meanwhile A from the valve goes into ‘Heat pump coil’ in the HW cylinder. Is this the wrong way round ? Just seems strange that if I manually move the valve over I get heat at the rads. If this is the case it’s partly my fault for not checking the very basics (programmer / valve orientation etc). Maybe too trusting that the ‘experts’ who have been around before have checked the right things or done their job properly. Thanks as as always for any help, always appreciated.
  6. Thanks Peter, I was hoping that the pipe size might have had some bearing on it.......bugger ! Do you mean the 3 port valve, or just the head of it ? I had the head off the other week and it seems to rotate ok when it’s powered up / powered off. What really confused me is that when I put it on manual we started getting heat in the rads, I thought manual on those was to move the system over to HW ? Thanks, Lyndon
  7. Afternoon gents.....back in Weeting again and may have a (very worrying) breakthrough. I checked all the TRVs to make sure they weren’t stuck, all good. I checked for continuity between terminals 3 & 13, yep it’s there. I turned on the ASHP and it started running, made sure that the heating was being called for and that HW request was off. Still no heating until I flicked the 3 port valve over to manual and we started getting some heat........could it be that we were stripping out the heat from the HW produced by the immersion heater ? Is that possible ? Anyway - Now for the worrying bit, especially when people place such importance on flow / pressure etc. It turns out that originally the system that was fitted was a 8kw one. This was changed before the in-laws moved in to the current 15kw one, allegedly due to it not being man enough (it’s only a 6 room + hallway bungalow). While reading the manual today I noticed that for 12kw and upwards the pipework should be 28mm, but the pipework we have is 22mm, as would have been fitted for the 8kw version. Very worrying or just me clutching at straws ? Thanks for your help, as ever. Lyndon
  8. Hi all, We have a reasonably old boiler (guessing 15yrs+), but it seems to heat ok, both heating and HW. The system isn’t particularly noisy with either heating or HW on, but when they clash it makes quite a noise, enough to wake you up. When you are downstairs it sounds upstairs and vice versa. I have changed the 3 port valve head but to be honest there’s no real noise in the airing cupboard where it is. I could juggle the timings of the HW and heat on the Hive controller but wondered if there may be an easy fix ? I’m probably going to get the system changed to a Combi in the summer so I wouldn’t want to spend too much ! Thanks for any help.
  9. Thanks all. Curiouser and curiouser ! I’ll do the TRV checks, and make sure the LS valves are open, thanks Jeremy. I did have a thought. Where terminal 3 was broken within the heat pump, and I’ve put a connector block between what went in the two sides - You mentioned that #3 is internally linked to #13. Will I need to recreate that link as I have effectively taken the terminal block out of the loop for that terminal (#3) Thanks again, Lyndon
  10. Evening gents, I nipped up there on the way home from somewhere this afternoon. Gutted to find that the pumps were pointing in the correct directions - It looks like the head of the one on the return leg had been switched around for aesthetic / wiring purposes, leaving the body in the correct orientation. The live of both pumps was into #13 of the attached picture. Should I be waiting for the Lockshield on the rad to be replaced before going any further, or would this just block the one rad off while allowing the rest of the system to function normally ? Does anyone know if Carrier do domestic callouts, and if they would deal with Kingspan units as they actually made them ? Travelling up there to implement the brilliant info from here isn't the easiest way of doing things ! Cheers, Lyndon
  11. Like this (please excuse the technical (??!!) drawing.....)
  12. Thanks chaps. Disconnect the the one in the return leg I’d imagine ? If that works, whip it out and put it in the other way around ?
  13. So obvious now you’ve pointed it out Peter ! The two drops with the pumps on had an F and an R written on the wall behind them in pencil, so I’m assuming they are Flow & Return. Next time up I’ll go in the loft and trace the pipes from the ASHP into that cupboard. If they are what I think, then yeah the pumps look like they are backing against each other. I just don’t see how we ever got any heat at all. Cheers.
  14. Thanks gents. @JSHarris - Jeremy, do you think the shut down (maybe) lockshield valve could be to blame ? I’m glad that these issues seem to link (the flow maybe being restricted and the ‘case thermostat’ error). @PeterW - I’m home now so can’t see, I’ll certainly have a look next time. I have no idea about these systems, as you can tell, but I couldn’t understand why there are two pumps. One is on the flow, nearest the wall and one is on the return. They had these changed recently, so that person / firm may have thought there was an issue before. There were however two originally. I’ll deffo check to see where they are wired to though. Do you know how they should be set, and are they set actually on the pumps themselves ? ta, Lyndon
  15. Afternoon gents, Been back up there today, and I’m getting more confused ! On the pressure / TRV side of things - I was really disappointed to find that all the TRVs were almost wide open. Opened them right up and started the system, started getting some heat in the rads but never much really and then the ASHP stopped. There was no fault on the diagnostic unit, but the same leds as yesterday on the pcb withing the pump. Then its pointed out to me that a lockshield valves on one of the rads is broken (by a plumber when trying to fix a leak). The machined down part on the top has been sheared off, and I don’t know if it’s fully open or fully closed - If there was a leak I’d suggest fully closed.........could this be the flow restriction and therefore the cause of high pressure ? Fact is that this will need changing before I go further, just to eliminate it. On a different route, when the pump stopped I had the same leds on the pcb board as before. This time I knew to press SW800 to drill down further. This gave me D805 on, but that’s always on, and D802 flashing. According to the manual my FIL has (which as discussed earlier may or may not be accurate), this then points to ‘Case thermostat operation’ Anyone have any idea what this is, maybe it’s a red herring ? I think we need the lockshield valve changed before I move on. As ever, thanks for any help. Cheers.