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Found 10 results

  1. Hi, I wonder if anyone can help please ? My In-Laws bought a bungalow a few years ago that had been fitted with a Kingspan Aeromax ASHP and have had problems with it ever since. Theres a whole list of stuff that’s been allegedly done, and by several people. The bottom line is that they get plenty of hot water, but when conditions are cold they don’t get any heating.........which is kind of when you need it ! We live an hour away and I’ve been letting them try to deal with this but I feel I need to step in as they are throwing good money after bad and no one they have around seems to truly know the system. Having read this forum there seem to be some very knowledgable & helpful people about. I notice that the Kingspan are, like a few others, just a rebadged version of a make called Carrier. I also notice from some extremely insightful posts from JSHarris that these units aren’t very well set up for the UK winter. Can anyone give any advice please ? If I need to buy one of these command units to reprogramme the system, assuming anyone knows the required parameters, then I’m happy to do that. For the record, I have no experience with these systems, or heating in general but I am a mechanical engineer with some electrical experience, so I should be able to do most stuff. Thanks for any help. Cheers, Lyndon
  2. Hi All Kingspan Aeromax ASHP fault 22 Looking for any thoughts on A Kingspan Aeromax ASHP Recently had a call to look at one which was tripping the main mcb, which was identified as the inverter board eventually got to speak with Carrier and sourced a replacement inverter, this was fitted which aliminated the initial fault. However I now have a alarm 22 temp sensors, I have checked these both where reading the same including the cables back to the control pcb. I have a nagging memory from looking at one of these years ago the water temperature needs to be above a minimum value, I am failing to get any assistance from Carrier tech possibly down to the COVID restrictions etc. I don’t have a back up heater to boost the temperature unfortunately. If anyone has any experience of these units that can assist I and the home owner would be very great full. Marcus
  3. Hi I’ve stumbled across some very informative details on this forum with regards to portal frame builds and have a few questions that I’m hoping folk can help me with. We are looking to build a new church building for our congregation of +250 folk. We have been renting but in the current ‘covid’ climate, renting large buildings is likely to be difficult. One suggestion, to allow a quick build, has been to build a large portal frame building, Approx 17m wide by 22m long and 6m high (ridge) with a 6m wide ‘lean to’ running the full length. With regards to the main building, it will be entirely open to use as a sanctuary and my suggestion to overcome the steel frame thermal bridging problem would be to panel the entire inside of the building, flush with plain insulated PIR sandwich panels, walls and ceiling. One wall will have tall windows in it, one gable will likely have some windows in it, one gable will have very little in the way of windows and one wall will have a ‘lean to’ attached to it. The outside would ideally be panelled in ‘as attractive as possible’ sandwich cladding, possibly with a view to over cladding some of it with timber to improve asthetics. Acoustics will need to be considered, possibly by way of special ceiling panels? With regards to internal asthetics, I understand it could be a fairly clinical looking building but perhaps with decorative timber paneling half way up the wall and regularly spaced fake wooden pillars a warmer look may be achievable - these things could be added later, the main issue being the speed of build presently required. With regards to U/values, SAP calculations and general feasibility, does this idea sound plausible? All input is welcomed and thanks for letting me join the forum Ian
  4. Hi all I am looking to have a warm flat roof done. I have a fair amount of Kingspan K103 remaining from doing my floors. My flat roof is being made so it is suitable for walking on (we will be putting a floating Trex decking system on top). I was looking to use the Kingspan K103 for the roof, I spoke to Kingspan today to ask if it would be okay to do so, they said they cant say whether or not it is because it has only been tested for floors. I would assume it would be okay as if its suitable for walking on via a floor then they same would apply on a roof. Unless there is an issue as this type of board is not foil faced, I don't have very much experience with insulation as this is my first big project so any pointers would be appreciated. I also haven't decided what would be the best roof finish before putting down the composite decking on top, every roofer seems to give conflicting advice. Thanks in advance
  5. I have a box of now not needed sample pack of about 50 (roughly A6 size) colour swatches and a sample of the sinusoidal panel from Kingspan. It seems a waste to throw it out if anyone happens to be passing through Camden and wants it. Self builder, architect - anyone? https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/products/insulated-panel-systems/roof-panel-systems/sinusoidal-roof-panels-ks1000-srw
  6. Hi all, My self build is a flat roof single story L shaped bungalow. The roof is quite complex in that the L is at 110degrees not 90 and we have a wing at the front of the property that leads off the main dwelling to a garage. The total roof area is 257m2 but some of this is a overhang roof so I only need PIR insulation over 234m2 area. I've had quotes from the main tapered roof suppliers and Kingspan have come out the cheapest at £6.5k (£27.77 per m2) to achieve an average U Value of 0.17. I've then costed using 150mm Celotex PIR boards and timber firrings and this method was coming out more expensive. Has anyone had any experience of tapered PIR? They can be adhered to the OSB deck and GRP can be laid directly on the PIR boards. Seems quite a quick and simple solution and in this case cost effective. Cheers
  7. Hi all, I’ve been a long time lurker, but this is my first post on the forum... of course it’s because I have an technical problem that I need help with, and based on all the previous discussions on here I’m thinking there is more than enough experience to enlighten me! I have a 4kw Kingspan Aeromax Plus KHP0041 (made by Carrier), heating my UFH system downstairs and radiators upstairs, all was working fine until...it wasn’t. I have 240v in the unit, but no blinking LED on the GMC board. Now i’m not certain what the issue/cause is, but it might be related to the fact that I decided to wire in the alarm unit, so I could see from indoors if there were any issues without having to go out and open up the unit to look at the blinking LED on the GMC board. For some reason I thought it was a 0v feed so didn’t switch off the power and when posting the wire thought the wall I think I shorted it out... as I’m fairly sure it’s actually 12v. So without giving me too much grief for being stoopid, do you have any other suggestion of what would cause the GMC board LED to stop flashing or how I could test it? Before I go and buy a replacement PCB. In penance, I do have PDF copies of the Kingspan Installation Manual, the Carrier Service Manual and the Carrier Spare Parts document. If it’s of any use to anyone. Thanks Gav
  8. Nice warm weekend ahead. Perfect for fitting insulation between rafters. We need to infill with 200mm of Balytherm. Before I do so, anyone got any tips? So far I have been told to cut the sheets with a sharpened trowel or scraper (to avoid dust) be sure to 'tie on' while waltzing around on the rafters put a couple of temporary battens under the rafters and push the insulation down to them from outside (above) foam round the edges of each rafter space, not each sheet (two lots of 100mm) Then there's a BBQ on Monday evening, by when I hope the job will be finished. Everyone welcome. Breaking my new 'never-at-weekends' rule, but his weather is too good to miss. too rare.
  9. Our rafters are 225 mm by 47mm. The insulation specified is 200 mm of Kingspan K7 between the rafters (underlayed by 82.5 mm of K18 ) Hence the 25 mm issue. And the 82.5 mm issue I suspect. Architects are like that aren't they? I have 225mm of rafter to fill: should I leave an air gap? (I bet the answer is No) should I fill the gap : 100, 100, 25 and then underlay it all with 60 mm K18 (not 82.5 mm as above) Or do something more intelligent? Which is where you come in.
  10. Many thanks for the help I have got on here so far. Does anyone know where I can buy some splines for Kingspan Sips. I emailed Kingspan but I didn't get a reply.
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