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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    How about a buried duct and run a couple of Cat5 down it from the house and just put a WiFi access point on the end of it ..?
  2. PeterW
    Comes pre-mixed with a retarder in it - will last 72 hours or thereabouts if you keep the air off it. Lovely stuff to work with and no mixer running for 8 hours a day !!
  3. PeterW
    Ready mix is quick, simple and quiet although a 1/3cuM tub weighs a fair bit so you either need a flat level drive and a pallet truck or a Telehandler if you’ve got a way to go and tight access. But as @Declan52 says - you get a perfect finish with no variation.
  4. PeterW
    TBH I was going to use an Enlight fixed LED units however I’ve now decided to use a fixed GU10 Fire Rated downlight and then change the bulbs as I was concerned about the longevity of the fixed units. Only exception to this will be the kitchen that is having the LED round panel lights. Even the outside lights are LED
  5. PeterW
    Ok he did a full chimney for me in reclaim with a nice corbel detail (I got the dimensions wrong at ground level.....) and finished with a reclaimed pot. It was done with Dunbrik liners too so no S/S liner to worry about. Are you using readymix mortar..??
  6. PeterW
    What is the build ..? Just a brick skin over a TF..? @Barney12 had my brickie - he will travel but will probably need accommodation locally otherwise it will be time consuming. Drop me a PM with plans etc
  7. PeterW
    Lots of info on here Search for “treatment plant”
  8. PeterW
    Sounds like the pump is either blocked or jammed. Is it a single or dual impeller..?
  9. PeterW
    Yep if you want solid copper then this is what you want Cat5E
  10. PeterW
    DO NOT USE BLEACH OR “BLUU” TABLETS IN A GEBERIT CISTERN..!!!! Have I got your attention now..?? Good... the flush blocks will rot the silicone seal in the flush tube which makes them start to leak. Those things are the devil - if you must use something, make it a rim flush or use the stick on gel flower things ....
  11. PeterW
    Is it an Essex flange on the tank for the shower..?
  12. PeterW
    Is there water in the header tank ..??
  13. PeterW
    Welcome... So MVHR will help reduce your heating demand - and provide fresh air - eliminating the need for trickle vents but you have to get the air tightness right ! Have you got a full model of the heat demand for the house ..? The DER isn’t a good place to start (sorry..!) as it assumes a lot and isn’t designed to provide anything over a single data point. There is a decent excel model on @JSHarris website, worth downloading.
  14. PeterW
    Sorry - meant that you want to take it all off, not just bits and try and put a polymer over the top of a variety of base coats
  15. PeterW
    I love conservation officers ... just can’t manage a whole one at once without a nice bottle of Malbec... Anyway, they can only enforce what is on the plans and what is agreed. If it says on the plans that slates laid double lapped etc etc then you’re out of luck, same as if it says lead for valleys etc but if the plans say slate, the agreed in writing material is slate, then they can’t really comment on the rest ... whats the exact wording of the condition or the permission...?
  16. PeterW
    Why not consider a flat roof with some sort of orangery type lantern to it ..? It would mean your window above the back corner could also still be used as a means of escape as you would currently be stepping out into glass .. would simplify the design and also allow you to gain light at a lower cost.
  17. PeterW
    They say the material has to be welsh slate, not how it has to be laid.....
  18. PeterW
    Like @nod says - off with the lot and start again... Polymer render is thinner too in a lot of cases so you need a decent base to work from and a mess of renders isn’t what you want. How old is the main house ..?
  19. PeterW
    Usually down to cheap beads. Older ones were heavier with more galv so kept their coating better when scratched. They have got thinner and thinner over time to keep cost down.
  20. PeterW
    To answer this @oranjeboom - floor loss is elsewhere - wall loss is the total wall including any openings for windows and doors - correct on loss however find your total degree days for your area to see what the worst case and average heating days is. Let me know if that helps
  21. PeterW
    I've got about 60m or so from memory in 2 or 3 pieces that are free to a good home... postage is at cost...
  22. PeterW
    That is a very big panel and you will need to go up to at least 6.4mm laminate on one or both panes to get the strength. For a pure DG unit at that size with 6.4/16/6 with toughened Planitherm internal glass you're about £550 per unit - not including the frame, or how you secure them. I would also be worried that overheating would be a big issue as you have no way of opening or shading a very large glass space.
  23. PeterW
    Ok so in that case then I just leave as is ...
  24. PeterW
    http://www.nulokroofing.com/uk/nulok-roofing-system
  25. PeterW
    About £1 each from memory. How many do you need as I’m sure I’ve got some knocking around somewhere ...
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