PeterW

@Nickfromwales has seen my set up and it’s pretty “homebrew” for MVHR. Vents are Toolstation - nice white metal variable flow ones that have an inner which we have fixed and then plastered in. Cost about £7 each. Plenums are made from various uPVC solvent weld parts - cost about £8 per room. Duct is standard 63mm black electrical duct. It’s nigh on the same as the expensive stuff and I used 3 rolls. So that’s £160 for duct. I have a Mitusbishi Lossnay MVHR from an auction that was brand new - this was the one rebadged by Kingspan as their own and if cost me £60 - the controller was £80..! Plenum is £20 of MDF, and I need about 4ft of 150mm duct to finish. So all in I’m at £500 inc the Vat for a full house system. It can be done, and at double that for an eBay MVHR you can make a massive difference. I’ve seen some of the DCV valves and they are very nice but surprisingly expensive for what they are - it was a 5v stepper motor, driving the vane, a PIC and a stepper chip with a CO2 and DHT11 on a stalk in the airflow to do the monitoring and it was basically adjusting up and down the flow every 15 seconds. It was also noisy as the vane only closed to 95% which caused a whistling at the terminal. From memory they were about £90 + Vat each and needed a transformer too. I’m all for leading edge stuff but I don’t want to be someone’s guinea pig for a ventilation system that if it went wrong would need me to rip parts of my house down to replace ..!

Middle panel seems to be all glass yet others have a timber (????) middle section in line with the floor ..?

Is that south facing ..? Looks better on the right but... middle panel needs to match the rest ..!

I wish you every bit of luck with that plot ..!!! Fence sounds the least of your worries ...!!

And PP is for a bungalow ..? Whats the soil ..?

Why do planning say no - or care ..? Tree roots will be a problem for any foundation construction - on clay you could end up at 2m founds so why not make the best of it ..?

Scaffold can step over a 6ft fence for building purposes as long as the vendor is ok with that for the building period. Issue may well be fire regs with your rendered panel, and as others say, it’s not really anything other than wasted space Considered a basement..?

Been running a Sanyo one for 6 years. Pros - better cold weather performance Cons - limited support. Most engineers don’t have the high pressure kit to service them

Whats the make/model of the MVHR..?

Distance selling regs you have 14 days anyway so just email them and cancel the order ...

Is it a wall replacement ..?? I’ve got a couple of contacts who would do it online from a sketch

Twyford do one and I’m about to fit one so if you wait a couple of weeks ..... Double Sink Unit

Treat anything not cut and fitted on site as engineered and you won’t go far wrong. So so as I look at your roof layout you have a full run down the back of the house that is circa 8-10m which is going to need a support somewhere on the midpoint of each rafter. Unless you go with a glulam beam that will be probably 400mm deep, you will not get the depth and length from a UK timber yard without splicing and you don’t seem to have many internal structural walls ..! The US and Aus can get away with smaller section roof timbers as they rarely use concrete or slate on their rooves so the static loading is less. To put it into perspective, I have 11 tonnes of tiles and 1.3 tonnes of lead on my roof - in shingles or sheet that would be 1/3rd of that at best. Do the maths.... Unless you are an engineer then I would leave the roof design to a specialist. The truss companies will do it for free usually and they give you an accurate design, assurance it’s correct, and most of all the insurance cover if they get it wrong ..!!!

Ok so you will either need an engineered truss or a cut roof with steels as purlins just above the sloping ceiling height. Have you tried the truss manufacturers ..? DWB in Hull would design and cut the whole roof for you - they also do engineered joists for the first floor and will use engineered joists for rafters too if you need to get the depth for insulation.

Why not switch the snug and the lounge and make the whole of the right side one big open plan space ...? Make the WC off the Utility and then the rest is a useable and sizeable living dining and cooking area. The airing cupboard is also lost space. Move the tank (utility or go with a Sunamp if you have PV) and then make that area into the ensuite and make it Jack and Jill to both bedrooms.

Same here. Full cut roof, 2 big valleys, 3 full lead dormers each with a pair of lead valleys and 6 Velux rooflights... We we could have gone with an attic truss with a drop chord to give me the floor too but there were too many cut bits to do to fit between the trusses it wasn’t worth it. A big cut roof with no traditional ceiling joists need steels at purlin or ridge and these need detailing carefully.

Yes - having a single entry to a house and a “false” door.

Laptops are 19v for a fair few these days. Key is getting the polarity right.

Not required unless you are changing any obscure glazed windows / rooms or plan to create a different number of units than has permission. Sorry but your front door idea is a bit barking - do a single or double winder and use the space properly as @Nickfromwales says. And if that’s anything like passive you will need the tiniest stove you can find....

Or the newts.... I bet @recoveringacademic Can send a few ...

Thats the new Cat6 spec - it’s a cross shaped nylon spine that separates the 4 pairs of cores. Makes it more rigid too but needs more time to terminate it as you have the spine to cut out carefully.

Yep - told you there was a double garage in there somewhere ..!! I reckon I get 10-15% more brick/block laid per day with readymix on a 1:1 gang as the labourer is only loading out - no mixing, no Monday morning pigeon poo and you can normally run it over a weekend if it’s wrapped up tight. In 21 tubs in all dumped around a tub in total over 9 weeks - less than 5% wastage.

You can do proper ie 48v PoE over standard Cat5 to about 100m if it’s Copper not CCA. Doesn’t need to be Cat6 for that. And if you’ve got 100m PoE links running, you can probably afford Cat6 anyway as it’s a big pad..!!!

You rent the tubs and then they line with a poly bag every delivery - our supplier will do down to one tub an order but they usually like at least two - does about 400 bricks per tub.

Any reason you want to use this rather than DPC..??? The mortar below needs to be dry so you will be waiting a week before you can paint it on - and the blocks need to be dry too..!