PeterW

I think they are the wrong way round - that’s for putting 15mm pipe into 16mm fittings.

Bolts on smaller Velux windows and doublers are not needed unless you really go past 800mm width as it’s normally to support the trimmers top and bottom and the shortened or removed rafters. A coach screw every 600mm will suffice - nothing too difficult to retrofit.

Sounds like a fault on the element as they should cut out well below that ..!

Does the spec not say what should be done ..?? Either side of mine the doubles are screwed together and under the dormer cheeks it’s M12 bolts with washers etc

I’ve lost half a stone but the knees are now truly knackered but that’s due to lots of reasons .....! Stress levels go up and down, sometimes it’s money, sometimes materials and subs so you go with the flow and don’t let it get you down ....!

LPG Direct is the one I probably mentioned.....

Who’s your preferred LPG supplier ..?? And if you drop the pipework to the basins and kitchen to 10mm then you can reduce the time to get hot water to the taps.

PTC ones are self regulating - eBay is your friend. PTC Element

Fermacell can be used for the top floating surface and takes tiles direct. You can also use one of the EPS track systems to keep the UFH in place and also improve on insulation. It doesn't have to be marine ply - you can also use HardieBacker which is plenty strong enough at the centres you are talking about.

Don't think I even paid that ! Let me check...

Karcher do a drain jet for their pressure washers and I’ve used it to similar effect and it’s very good. The benefit is that it will go through tight bends and at a push if you warm the tube first you can get it around a U bend ....

Errr... uPVC with triple glazed units was 3 weeks from order to delivery.

I’m going to see how they manage to put anything on the VOA register as they can’t even sort the address out despite paying over 12 months ago ...

valspar is pretty hideous but I’ve never had an issue with Johnstones Trade and their technical support is very good too. @Ed_MK that looks like a water based stain cover not an undercoat they have quoted. Let me check what Johnstones would charge.

What product is that for ..?? Gloss, satin, eggshell..?? I pay £46+VAT for mixed gloss to a colour we use and that’s for 5 litres from Johnstones

So why use this and not just drive a threaded rod ...?? It’s not like you need the force to drive it and a rod would make it easier to drive vertically....

Sorry - being obtuse ... Looking at that, the wall with the blue arrow isn’t structural above; it’s just done in block all the way up for ease. The stub I'm referring to is the old kitchen door one - only about 150mm but would mean not altering the structural integrity of the main spine wall. Make sense ..??

I think I remember that @lizzie and I’m sure they had to put a backup water supply in to sell it too. I wouldn’t want a house that relied on rainwater - boreholes are one thing, but hoping it rains is quite another !! I’ve been round the Dales New Autonomous House and that was really interesting especially for its location but again, not worth what they wanted for it when it sold last !

Does it go through the floor and up to the ceiling of the next floor ..? As @Nickfromwales says, not unusual for those to be built off the slab. Out of interest, any chance of leaving the small return where the light switch is..?? It’s creating a buttress to the other wall and would simplify your installation somewhat as currently you’re going to compromise the whole of that other 100mm wall by removing bits of it less than 500mm from its end ...

Questions... How wide is the stub marked with a red arrow And what is above the blue arrow..? is this blockwork up into the next floor..?

Padstone is specced in the design - that is a standard Naylor Padstone available from most BM. Read the notes on the file and you can work out where it goes. BCO doesn't need to know about removal of electrics assuming you're using a sparky, just that the padstones are in the walls appropriately and the steel is minimum 100mm on the padstone. I was picked up on one a few years back and always make sure my steels are min 120-150mm on the padstones and that way I have no issues. For the cost - and if the padstone is in line with the beam - getting the beam 300mm longer each end than the opening means it sits better on the pad and doesn't front load it.

Yep same here !! Where are you located ...?

Pretty similar to mine - what’s the BRegs / BCO additional cost ...?

How much EWI would that pay for .........? ?

Yep - simple condensation analysis is all that is needed. In most instances you only need 9mm of insulation anyway to prevent it.