PeterW

£399..?? Haier

Haier ones are pretty much the same but have better reviews and are more economical.

In other words he’s never put a bag in it ... filter will be knackered so order one of these and a pack of these as @Nickfromwales says..

Only if it’s the pre - EU standard one that had the 1800w motor .. new ones with the 1000w motors are rubbish ..! Inside every one is a Numatic motor - these come up on eBay much cheaper than Henry’s (grey industrial ones) yet are identical inside.

You’ve read the cleaning instructions obviously that state to “immerse the shower head in cleaning solution for 5-10 minutes .....” Going to be a very long extending stem....

What you are describing there is a traditional sash installation but you have a problem if you want to recreate it. Traditionally, the sash boxes and the outer frame was built into the skin as the building was constructed, and invariably the sash frame became a structural part of the building by acting as a lintel unless there were stone mullions supporting the stone head. If you look carefully at a traditional box sash, the brick or stone outer skin is invariably narrower than the inner skin, and there may well be a splay internally to maximise the light into the building. From what you are describing, you will need to build the inner and outer window apertures at different sizes to allow the windows to be installed from the inside, pushing them tight up against the outer skin. This is going to need some very careful detailing as you won’t be able to use a profile for the outer skin opening as the brickworks will need to be fully pointed on the inner reveal. Have the architect and the window specialist spoken about any of this as it sounds like the architect has designed something one way, and the window supplier is designing something different and the two may not work together which will be a very costly mistake !

I would go 100mm brick 175mm cavity (widest before ties get expensive) blown EPS 100mm medium block Bonding parge coat 25mm batten Infil with 25mm PIR Board Skim That is a 415mm wall which is pretty thick but still uses all standard lintels etc. Anything over that, go TF

You can’t bury wires in insulation unless you rate them correctly. The purpose made foams are pretty Impressive - we got decent levels all round even on some old walls that were far from plumb ..! Once it’s skimmed you never see it anyway ... find a good plasterer ..!

The new foams rather than dot and dab certainly get round that issue as there is 1-2mm at most between wall and board. Walls also feel a lot more solid.

Not directly but friends bought an ex display German kitchen with all its PoggenPol appliances through them a couple of years ago and made the room fit the kitchen with a cleverly placed stud wall. Apart from a small scratch to the front of one cabinet, it was a £31k kitchen that cost them £12k to buy and fit.

Additional cost and complexity that isn’t needed ..?? Can you not carry the waste on under the wall and out the other side and then it’s terminated with a vent or AAV there so there is no cold vent in the house..?

I’d want two props on the middle purlin, and both sets need lateral restraint to stop the roof racking away from the other wall. Much easier to just put 3 or 4 acro’s per beam to spread the load but make sure there is something stopping the beams moving sideways.

We left telltale holes so we could see where it had been injected but to be honest with the amount that came out of the smallest of gaps such as the soffits, I could pretty much guarantee it was done properly ..! Walls went up much easier with no insulation to mess with and there were no bridges of snots - we even hoovered out the cavities ..! With a reclaim that is 102-120mm wide, it was the easiest and quickest option. House has no heating yet it takes 36-48 hours to respond to any reasonable outside change and I’m planning on putting a couple of hi-lo thermometers in there over the next week as it’s holding heat so well.

DIY Kitchens have a sale on til 10th May now and quality is top notch vs Howdens and price is similar. Worth the day trip - free coffee and cake too...

I used MKMs own brand which is made by Cromar. No complaints either from me or the roofers

Nah - it’s all of us ..! Oddly when I picked up a PlumbFix order in my suit he put it in the car for me ... never normally do that when I’m scruffy ...!!

Head has a rubber washer in it like a shower hose - stem is done up tight into the fitting with PTFE as per any joint and then the head just spun on to finger tight so comes away easy. If you are using stillsons to put a shower head on then you’re doing it wrong.....

For adopted stuff they will tell you usually what they accept. Assuming it’s ST the for street works it’s any of the PolyPipe civils range which isn’t much more expensive than ordinary underground pipe.

Both just fix to a 1/2” male iron on a piece of copper. Last one I did I put a ballofix on the end of the copper on a swept bend and clipped the bend to the joist above. I reinforced the ceiling with 3 squares of plasterboard stuck on with no nails or similar and then drilled the hole from below. Bit of silicone around the rim of the hole and pushed the piece through from the top and a baby wipe later it was all done. Looking at that one, it’s a smaller hole and then the back nut holding it on so probably just needs the PB pad making up about 3 sheets thick.

Same as in spec - ie layout - and it does make life a lot easier when you’re laying blocks in a trench getting a nosebleed head down if the top surface of the concrete doesn’t look like the back of a crocodile with rickets.... I insisted on ours being laid out properly - standard block work with trenchfill - and we were 20mm out in depth over the 10m before pour, 6mm out after pour, and 2mm out (or the tolerance on my laser) at DPC. Cutting blocks to get corners level, or sitting them on slabs of muck to get them high isn’t adjusting tolerances, it’s correcting crap workmanship.

I’d add that to the list for Little Willy as he’s good at tracing wires ... but I reckon it’s all in a cupboard in the hallway ..!

Neighbours have a 63mm sub main gas pipe across their garden that they knew nothing about until I asked if I could connect to it... And nothing to show on their searches !

Cheers - I’ve got a few double pole contactors already hence the thought of using them.

Thanks I know I can get 16A time switches but tbh I would prefer to keep them all at ~1A or less for longevity and let the contactors do the heavy loads. It also simplifies a couple of override switches too. All I was concerned about was mixing the circuits in the box but appropriate warnings will be stuck on anyway.

One for the sparks... Looking at the time switches and general control of : UFH circ pump ASHP circ pump 2 / 3 way valves electric UFH electric towel rails primary immersion secondary immersion one idea is a bank of 6 time switches with 3 contactors controlling the electric ufh and immersion’s but it raises a question in my head. The CH circuit is on a 10A radial, as is the Electric Ufh. immersion’s are both on their own 16A radials. That potentially makes 4 different circuits heading into single control box. All the CH neutrals would be common and I would carry the L/N through the contactors so there would be no other neutral termination in the box (this is all rcbo btw) Can any of the electrically minded ones see an issue with this or have I missed anything..? I don’t really want 4 control boxes on the wall if I can help it, each with a single circuit in it. @ProDave @Onoff any thoughts ..??