PeterW

I quite like the exposed stuff ..!

Ok so you will struggle..! I would split it out - add tools to your site insurance and keep them separate as they will be better insured under that insurance. Add the house contents to the caravan insurance as they are domestic property.

Is this household contents or tools and materials ..??

Sorry ... I’ve just re-read your post @Ann .. Are you saying that the quote is for the design costs and not the actual build ..???! If so, that is barking mad ..!

Welcome ..! By Ty Unnos do you mean earth and thatch or the idea that there is a central “core “ to the building and everything is built around it ..?? To maximise budget, think square ..!! Squares and rectangles are quick, cheap and simple to work with. complexity and cost comes with circles and triangles so removing things such as dormers, curves etc will pay dividends. Despite the budget take a fabric first approach and also look at the options to build something that has the ability to be extended if budget and need arise later. You may be limited by the local design limits imposed by the council so have a look through recent planning applications to see what is being approved.

By the sounds of it the council are asking for an 18m footway along the front of the plot. If thats at a standard 1100mm wide and built up to council spec (ie concrete edging both sides, 150mm MOT1, Tarmac top coat to 65mm) then you will be looking at circa £100 a metre. If they’ve asked for it to edge to the road and have a road kerb detail with dropped kerbs for your driveway then you could double that if they also need a roadworks licence and a road edge to make good. Main road could add traffic lights so add £2k. Drains are an unknown unless you’ve got a drain plan and can advise if it includes the main sewer connection ..?

Welcome ..! any possibility you can post some plans as it’s not easy to say what is “reasonable” without an idea of the size or scale of the problem ..?

You will never see it.......... just solder it up and get on with the next job ..!

Use rock wool to do the section over the top of the wall and then use PIR over the top to get the insulation as close as possible. Quick, cheap, simple and effective.

You’ll also need something that has a stretcher available for that sloping detail about 8 courses up Have a look at Terca Renaissance as a potential brick.

And what does the planning officer think ..? Don’t they need to be approved ..??

Another thing is don’t be drawn by the “standard”. All of the ones we have are inward tilt and turn - the difference being where there are 3 panes it is only the inner pane that opens with the other two being fixed. This is goes against the traditional norms but actually looks much better and was also a lot cheaper.

What would you use as a floor though if not a ground slab ..? Surely any cost saving in the portal frame would be reduced as you will still need some sort of foundations to retain the floor and support the walls..,

I’ve got something similar and have fibre that sits over the ceiling rafters so have a 95mm air gap. With LED I’m not really worrying about the heat ..! Out of interest how big is the bathroom as that’s a lot of spots ..!

I’d be worried for the “caravan roof effect” with a very thin roof as you will hear everything .!!! Splays on the roof lights will help a lot.

Standard D4.. the one you stick Egger floor down with is fine as it’s a polyurethane glue Best one for old school is the powdered resin cascamite .... now that takes some serious abuse !!

Yep... quick simple and easy and means the head moves plumb

Isn’t the movement going to cause a problem ..?? There is no vertical rise other than the rise at the fixed point which would then need either the motor at right angles or the motor moving on the frame. I still think a vertical rise with the motor at the top and a threaded bar would be quicker and easier.

I specified it for ours and used the bolts with the fixed plate and teeth in them - dead easy to do as a 1 man job. Like @Nickfromwales I also glued them as they were under the dormer cheeks.

+1 to Ubiquiti If you have the money, go for the PoE switch and PoE version and it doesn’t matter if the cat5 socket is nowhere near a power outlet.

If you’re in Teignbridge I’m pretty sure @joe90 is just up the road ... And aren’t they the ones who have been put in special measures ..??

JCB 8008 CTS is about £14.5k new ex vat. They hold their value very well and are a top end bit of kit. £10k you are looking minimum 5-6 years old

Welcome ..! As a rule of thumb to get some budget plans together, use £1500 per square metre and then work back from there. This means a 130-160sqm house with a good level of finish and no involvement from you other than picking bathrooms, kitchens etc. Write a list of must haves and then work those in too - is this a long term home or somewhere you may sell in the next 5 - 10 years..? If its long term, focus on getting the running costs down low so look at PV, more insulation, lower bills as they will pay dividends year on year.

Most have zero labour cost for anything other than electrical systems.

Thanks @JSHarris that’s perfect ! They do a variety of wider sizes too. What is the quality like ..?