joe90

I have just discovered on other problem with my iPad (which appeared recently), I received an Email with a doc attached and can open the doc but the iPad no longer appears to have a print option???? Ggggrrrrrr just tried to email Apple but they don’t have an email address I have to use Twitter or something (that I don’t use or want to use).

Whenever I got someone to quote I made sure I was in tatty working clothes and mentioned my budget was very tight, this usually made sure they didn’t rip me off and talked if extra was foreseen ?

ha, I will give you that, but it’s my tiled floor in the kitchen that’s “floating”, the vinyl in the bathrooms are sound!

When I gave a quote for work I always said if any additional materials or work was required a price would be agreed before work progressed, yes it’s only 9% but it’s still £1500 ? I would be miffed.

I hate floating floors of any description, so many feel/sound hollow and regards UFH if there is a small air gap with floating this will not conduct heat as well as glued down (IMO).

ours is glue down, only in bathrooms so no shoes to mark it so can’t comment, easy to clean and warmer to the touch (especially with electric UFH ?). I would certainly use it again (Amtico).

wot he said ?

@AnonymousBosch will still have good angles for firing arrows etc!

Do you know EXACTLY where the boundary is?, is it your fence/hedge/wall, this can make a difference of a few 100mm (in your favour ?)

when I did a loft conversion on my house in Bristol I wanted dormers and the ridge of the dormer had to be 300mm below the house ridge, yes “subservient” Was the word the planners used. This did not give me enough head room within the loft and flat roofed dormers look c##p in my opinion. I got round it and built dormers as I wanted and stayed within the regs by using a cunning plan ?. Yes planners want additions to look like additions, the “timeline” argument.

I did instal one but with the 40mm pipe connected to it just below ground level so no external pipe on the wall. I did it to give me rodding access and also to collect crud from the kitchen sink rather than let it into the treatment plant.

in that case I think the planners are very reasonable

“Mass” absorbs sound, I wish I had double boarded my ceilings as some noise can be heard through the floors despite sound insulation being installed. You could double board the walls and ceilings with only minimal loss of space and plasterboard is cheap.

The problem is that if they get away with it, then others can do the same as a precedence has been set. This drop in roofline was explained to me as a “timeline”, a demarcation in the two indicating it has been altered. I don’t believe this is necessary unless on a Listed building though. Just shows this couple didn’t do their homework and abide by the rules.

Why worry, you will only piss off your nasty neighbours anyway ?. I use all sorts of power tools in my workshop (including routers, planer/thichnessers etc) and have no sound insulation and a single skin tin roof.

Our kitchen/diner is tiled (floor) with no soft furnishings of 45sq m and it is quite “echoey”, I also am a little hard of hearing and we both have to repeat what we are saying a fair bit. We have a dog and so tiled is the only practical solution, perhaps curtains would help but I don’t like them in a kitchen (holds odours).

You do not need PP for any caravan as long as it’s not a separate dwelling (I.e. you use a toilet in the house) it would be difficult for the council to prove you were not anyway. I put a static next to our build after the original bungalow burnt down, didn’t ask for PP. I was asked fir council tax but proved I was paying council tax in Bristol (wife still working and living there) and told them it was “builders facilities “. No problem.

that’s easy fir you two to say ?

So sorry to hear of your loss, been there, done that, got the tea shirt. That sounds like a good project and one to get your teeth into which is a good therapy (ask me how I know?). Will watch this thread closely.

like you we are exposed to strong south westerlies and horizontal rain, even on the North side of our new build the wet conditions are incredible. I don’t think a canopy would do much except for heavy rain with no wind (tho better than nothing). I built a porch and am so glad we did, it makes an “airlock”, somewhere for wet boots (and muddy dog) and stops rain attacking my lovely oak from door!!

If I were building timber frame I would use blown cellulose like @Jeremy Harris very good for air tightness and decrement delay as well. His blog is a mine of information.

Clearing a site by hand is bloody hard work, get a man and machine in and get your levels right from the start. Working from a cleared site is soooo much easier. If you want to control weeds etc around the outside old carpet is great (and free).

@AnonymousBosch didn’t get one fitted by his utility co at the boundary!

I don’t think it matters where it is as long as you know where it is and is accessible at all times. (But I would put it where the MDPE pipe enters the property).

my vent pipe is on my detached garage 15m from the house (I do have an internal 50mm aav to stop any “gurgling” in traps).