joe90

I think so, if I remember correctly ?, a loo flushing does not fill the 110mm pipe completely! If a bath is emptied the waste pipe is full but it will be 50mm max. My AAV is 50mm and I have had no probs in the last two years. Saying that, if I had room to extend the waste in 110mm pipe and use a full size AAV I would. My BC chap saw it and said nothing.

Depends on how wet or dry it is (ha dry?) also depends how good/accurate the driver is, I would make it bigger if it were me, you could even put a row of blocks around the edge (under the poly) to retain a little. It will be the width of the truck plus “fall” so I would guess more than 2.4 wide!

This is the downside of plastic pipe work, connections are more expensive , if it were copper it’s easy to make one from lots of cheap T,s etc.

I would approach the manufacturer first with a visit and ask them to rectify any seals “within” the window that are faulty, they will then give you a professional opinion on how they are fitted correctly or not.

Just be careful if you mount two manifolds together, you can’t get the demount key between them to take them apart again (ask me how I know!).

hep20 and I got mine from toolstation. The welsh wizard recommended hep20 as the best!.

yes I found this a good way to go, I contemplated individual service valves but just out of sight on that picture is a service valve on the hot and cold feeds 22mm, plenty in my opinion to change a tap etc, and if any job takes longer I could always insert a blank on a particular feed from the manifold for a while ?.

Our builder insisted on using slate clips rather than nails in my windy location, also easier to replace slates if needed.

Have you seen this...... http://www.traditionalmetalroof.co.uk/detail-drawings/4587005754

I agree, and with @PeterW above, too shallow a run. Why the two 90’ bends with spurs and blanks in?

That’s odd @ProDave, I have the same unit as yours but 1 is the slowest???.?

IMO you need to make/have made the window frame and then get the glass made to fit that. No chance of anyone getting it wrong ?. I would have liked a similar window but we have a conservatory outside, our “upper level” window makes the hallway a bit dark.

im with @ProDave, I have a similar set up (ASHP outside, tank and pumps inside), if (when) the ASHP fails I can change it out simply, even fir a different size, spec, efficiency as techknowledgy changes. Like Dave my ASHP does UFH and DHW.

I have to confess I don’t know!!! I didn’t use any calculations but others here may be able to help with that. My wall build up is 100mm brick, 200mm rockwall batts, 100mm 7n block, render then plaster, so yes close on to 425mm.

A bit late to this one, but I would have done exactly the same, remove a couple of mil from the bracket, good on you fir being OCD (like me ?). P.s. I have often screwed threaded rod into timber successfully. ?

yup, I was using a pair just like that and they twisted and collapsed, I hit the concrete floor shoulder first and was amazed I had not broken anything, trade pair was bought next day and I still have them. Those cheap ones are ok for reaching cupboards but not for working from.

I agree, we also have boggy ground and I would not want to make it worse, I am glad we piped from out treatment plant into a ditch.

There are lots of rules about not burning “waste” wood but I would use common sense, I have lots of timber left over from my build and the demolition. Any plywood, OSB, treated wood is disposed of properly or kept to be re used but the rest is ear marked fir cutting up and burning on my wood stove if it’s not needed in the final push to get everything finished. I have a toilet built into the corner of my workshop but it’s become a offcut store fir timber, can’t wait to get that sorted out ?

Make sure you read threads about tiling! (Only saying after my kitchen tiles all lifted because I didn’t back butter the tiles ?)

I seem to remember @Jeremy Harris bought his MVHR from Euroland and claimed the VAT back ok!, @iSelfBuild perhaps it’s because you are a VAT Reg business? Us buildhubbers don’t tend to be.

The only regret with my build is noise between floors even with 100mm of insulation, might be wise to up the insulation you instal.

if you decide not to heat your workroom but use the room above as master bedroom might be wise to fill the ceiling void between them with insulation!

I too don’t like wet rooms, we installed two 1200 x 800 shallow trays, glass on 1200 side with “flipper panel” to stop water tracking off the end of main glass panel and it works well, a little water ends up outside the tray if you are “enthusiastic”. The bathroom floor was then laid with electric underfloor heating in liquid screed so the step up to the tray is only about 25mm. No regrets. We stayed in a hotel with a wet room and toilet etc got splashed.

I ran all my pipes individually to main 110 pipe, I don’t like sharing drain runs as they can lead to “gurgling,”

yes, the welsh wizard told me to go min 50mm drain runs.