joe90

I would point out to the electric co it was them that made the mistake, their job to bill the right people/meter, surely there is an ombudsman fir her to go too with this?

Welcome to THE building forum, remember there is no such thing as a stupid question, stupid is not asking!!! There is a plethora of knowledge here, read (ask) and enjoy the journey (we’ve all been there).

It’s basically leaf mould, which is very good for the garden, I used to make it by collecting leafs in a black plastic bag and leave fir a year .

picture please! @Big Jimbo,s missis might be interested ?

nah, stick it on timber blocks as said above , if it does subside a bit, Jack it up and put in a bit more packing ?

BUT a few of us heat water with an ASHP to 48’ fir both UFH (blended down to required temp) and DHW and I don’t believe my unit has ever defrosted or lost COP because of this, we may have slightly bigger DHW tanks as we don’t blend with cold water so much.

My container is on blocks above soil and rats have nested under it, maybe not a waste of stone, especially if it’s going to be hard standing after the container is gone. My container is going this year (if I can sort the crap out that’s in it) and replaced by stone to be a hard standing fir my caravan. You will need some stone at least near the door to access it without clods of earth on your boots

Frankly it won’t take 10 minutes whilst it’s being unloaded, if you want it spot on a good car jack at each corner (one at a time) afterwards will enable you to fine tune it.

I used Large blocks of timber on the four corners of mine but I had a JCB to lift it and get it level, easier when it’s being unloaded just have some timber handy, even if you slip the driver a tenner for five minutes work to satisfy your OCD!.

£1.99 https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-electrical-mains-tester-screwdriver-100-250v-ac-slotted-3-0mm-x-80mm/9019x

Ha, you must have posted it here at some time and I copied it to my build file ?

Depends how long I live ? (in that case buy my little Furgy fir your missus and add that to your list!).

the only upside to my workshop not being too big it stops me taking on even more projects (before i finish the ones I already have.

Well I am a Luddite so fir my conservatory I bought this on Ebay for a few quid ( a damp soggy feb day in Devon hence the high humidity). I was wanting a Co2 monitor to see how effective the MVHR was but convinced by others that RH was a good indicator of Co2. I have always thought that running the MVHR 24/7 was not needed (especially in summer when doors and windows are open). I have a humidity stat that I have yet to connect to the MVHR to kick the unit to boost after baths/shower/cooking, I am now thinking of installing a second one to switch the MVHR on when the RH and associated Co2 level get above a threshold that requires the house to be ventilated.

This was suggested by the welsh wizard, my understanding of this is the buffer tank allows an immersion in case of ASHP breakdown (although a Willis heater is another idea), the buffer with a coil stops the ASHP short cycling, during winter I keep the buffer topped up by ASHP so when the UFH calls for heat a store is immediately available whereas an ASHP will take a while getting up to temp. As my water temp is 48’ for buffer and DHW the tanks are very well insulated and I cannot feel any temp difference in the cupboards that they are in (er indoors mentioned the airing cupboard was not very warm? with hindsight I might not instal a buffer tank if I did this again, there are those here that run their UFH direct from their ASHP with no probs (and I would have a Willis heater as backup).

A workshop can never be too big!!,,,,,

Completely agree, I need it, can scrape it with my JCB but I am the wrong end of the country ? bugger

I found this diagram but one thing is wrong!,the UFH manifold in the bottom right corner should be fed from the tank, not the pipework from the internal coil. Hope this helps!

at least two ?

We had rockwall batts above DPC and foam slabs below, reason fir DPC was to allow any damp In cavity to run down and exit via weep vents at the tray level.

ah yes, done that, holding a stud frame with my hand and a nail fired from a paslode turned 90’ in the wood when it hit another nail straight through a finger, I pulled it out with pliers and carried on. My mate said should I go to hospital but I explained that doctors knew nothing about nail guns ????

the programmer was specific for the (rebadged) Carrier unit (same as @Jeremy Harris). It allows all sorts of peramiters to be changed (heating and cooling curves ?). Once set up I have not changed it, timing with it is frankly too complicated, I’m scared to touch it! So I will use timers instead. As @ProDave says different units have different control units. My list of parts are, buffer tank change over valve expansion tank (two) DHW tank pressure reducing valve immersion heaters (three) wiring centre air bleed valve copper and plastic pipe various.

I bought my ASHP on Ebay fir £850, which was a punt but well worth it. I had to source a programmer but frankly not touched since installing it!!!,, (£250). A buffer tank (questionable but does have an immersion in case of ASHP breakdown), i installed it all myself over a couple of days but frankly could have done it in one day and I am not a professional plumber. Electrics were a bit difficult as I designed the set up myself?. A changeover valve and a few odds and sods. I am thinking of installing timers as I might go E7 in the future. Diagrams for what to instal are ready available and a wealth of knowledge here on the forum about the best way to go.

You’re dead right about lack of insulation in a static, I spent most of two winters in mine ?. With a Couple of fan heaters I think you will be fine. Good idea about the vent axis MVHR and a daughter not far away?. Get a good duvet and electric blanket, it saved the day for me.

I whacked my little finger with a hammer, x ray showed the end bone in 9 pieces, they wanted to refer me to a specialist, but what could he do.? (Never went back and end of finger slightly bigger than the other one.) worst one was using an angle grinder with a wood carving blade (circular saw blade), unlike circular saws they don’t have a retracting blade guard so I took it easy, did my cut using both hands and went to put it down with my left hand and I have arthritis in my left thumb, thumb let go, flex around my wrist so when it fell it turned back on my thumb nearly severing it from my hand. I cut through loads of neves and two tendons, they managed to sew it back on but I have almost constant pain and reduced mobility. Lesson learnt, let blade stop before putting power tools down. (I have another photo of them trying to find the ends of the tendons but resisted as its lunch time)