Russell griffiths

As this is a place for sharing knowledge, I will pass on something I work to, first truck needs to be on site for 8.am, no later if they can't do this I don't want it, this gives you a couple of hours to get it in place and still plenty of time for cock up factor. The only time I will have it any later is if it's being poured straight into a mass footing. This is not a dig at Pete but hopefully a useful tip for anybody contemplating a bit of concreting.

I feel your pain. Been there done that. I would say that a power float will not touch it tomorrow. 1. You could hire a scabbler and knock all the high spots off, then when cured you could use a floor leveling compound. 2.you could get a company in to grind the surface and then clear epoxy it. 3. If you intend spending a fair bit of time out there I would use a levelling compound and then a nice vinyl tile.

The thinner 100mm concrete prestressed lintel will be way overkill. No load on that at all

I'm sure you are, you obviously put a great deal of effort in to get it right. But @LeanTwo has asked for ideas to get a good finish, I would hate for him to think that giving it a good tamping with a piece of timber is going to get him the finish he needs. And having some prior insight into how to trowel it up could help him out on the day.

Why not just swap the 6inch for a 4inch 840mm is not a large span if only carrying a light load.

I would think you need to look at how you are going to get a good finish If you want this as you finish concrete before the final floor covering goes down, tamping with a board will not be good enough, you will have to trowel the surface up when it has started to set, you will need to make up a board system so you can reach the whole way across to the centre, you will only know when it is the right time to trowel up by having a go and looking at the finish, if it's to wet have a cuppa and try it again in ten minutes.

It's fairly common to have 2 pack kitchens abroad and when you want a change you take the doors off and re,paint.

I was going to say make them out of mdf completely finish, and then take and have sprayed with 2 pack or epoxy. I built a dressmaking table for the wife and spayed it with epoxy primer and then 2 pack white. It has a better finish on it than furniture from a shop.

Any reason the pipe needs to be round? Why not a fibreglass rectangle 100 x32 would this fit in the batten area behind the cladding.

I would always tie it in case you get a stray end trying to pop up. As you walk on one sheet you may find you dip it down which causes the end to try and lift. as an aside I would really try and protect those doors before you struggle through with the sheets.

I was going to come up with a few ideas but it looks like the other lads have it covered. What i I would say backs up nick in that your pipe is a bit small I wouldn't rely on doing some calcs on water volume common sense would dictate that any foreign debris will block that in a second, I would definitely use a larger pipe.

Why?

I'm sort off not understanding what stage you are at. You said foundations where in, have you built up your brickwork to dampcourse level? Or are you casting a slab that a frame and brickwork sits on? Maybe be a bit more of an explanation of what you have done so far, with pics, will get a few more answers.

Sorry to state the obvious but your sips supplier will surely sell these.

Rectum damn near killed them.

Perfect that's what I was thinking. What i I would like to know is why shouldn't I do this? thanks dave.

On a hotel water system we did every threaded joint had a liquid thread lock compound on it, after hundreds of joints I don't remember having 1 single weap anywhere could be worth having a hunt around for a liquid sealer.

This is exactly how I had to do ours on our last house, square tap spout, asked the plumber who did the first fix and he said that is just how they are, take it off add a new piece of tape and re instal, I agree I doesn't seem right I even split a tap spout as I forced it around into the right position.

This @ProDave is exactly what I am thinking about. Can you say why you did this? Do you think the insulation on the stud/jamb surface will help with cold bridging from inside to out. Any pics.

I don't think having it underneath is a requirement I'm just thinking of how to leave a larger tolerance around the window, be it at the top bottom or wherever, just to allow for proper squaring up and height adjustment. Imagine a room with 4 windows where you would want the heads to all be exactly in line having 20 mm to play with could be a godsend when it come to lining them all up.

@MikeSharp01 can you elaborate on the fire regs, if the main structure is wood with a wooden window fitted how would having a 15 mm layer of insulation impede on fire regs? Are you you saying the 15mm layer could provide a gap for fire to pass through rather than a solid 190mm stud for arguments sake, assuming the window frame was fitted tight to the studs in the first place and no gap left and filled with expanding foam. What am I missing here.

If you laminated 3 layers instead of 2 you could stagger the joints more 3 x12mm ply fully glued would be massively strong. Many different ways to achieve this all probably perfectly strong enough as you say it isn't carrying a load.

I suppose it is @jack could this bottom piece be eps300 if it is dense enough to put under a foundation it should hold up a window.

So if a 25mm gap was left all around and a 15mm strip of insulation fixed to the timber structure that would still allow 10 mm for a sealing strip or expanding tape/ foam. Im just trying to think that any out of squareness or slight miss measure can be taken up in this packing area rather than trying to shoehorn in a window into a Miss made opening,

Why would you class it as structural @MikeSharp01 If any fixings pass through into the timber frame is it not just a packer or filler just the same as expanding foam would be ?