Russell griffiths

Oh my god you don't let your wife near anything that controls temperature i spend my life walking about in my undercrackers after she started messing with controls.

So if I forget the pump and go and buy one of those eye wateringly expensive Mira mixers, should I still fit a Sussex flange to feed the hot. Cheers russ.

Ok captain smarty pants @Nickfromwales am I over complicating things by adding a pump? If I could get away with out it would be good. My cold tank is directly above the bathroom, so can I cut a new hole in the tank for a direct feed to the mixer? Or just T in to a supply line out of the tank. Regarding the hot what does the Sussex flange do. If i T of a hot supply how will this affect the other hot supplies. God i I hope I haven't dug a big hole for myself I ripped out the old shower last night. ??

Ours looks like this.

@Roger440 where'd ya get the ute mate.

Going to put a pump on,new tray new tiles. Just would like to keep the budget down as it breaks my heart to spend anything on it. Looked at a couple today, first one was £130 second one £230. So was after some ideas.

Evening all, I hope @Nickfromwales isn't to far away. So please read this first bit as it has quit a bearing on why I don't want to spend to much money. The house we live in I would like to eventually knock down so I'm trying to hold it together with gaffa tape and multiple coats of emulsion at the moment, but the wife declared that she could not stand the piddly old shower anymore and it had to go so hence me not wanting to spend a lot of doe on it. What i I need is a mixing valve that can be fitted and maintained from the front, the fear I have is we have exceptionally nard water and the scale is terrible, so I am concerned about fitting something that I Cannot get at if I have a problem, ideally I would like a big face plate that can be removed and any screens or filters removed so it can have a flush out or de scale. The shower head will be located away from the mixer so a bar mixer with flexible hose is no good. Thanks skinflint russ.

As this is a place for sharing knowledge, I will pass on something I work to, first truck needs to be on site for 8.am, no later if they can't do this I don't want it, this gives you a couple of hours to get it in place and still plenty of time for cock up factor. The only time I will have it any later is if it's being poured straight into a mass footing. This is not a dig at Pete but hopefully a useful tip for anybody contemplating a bit of concreting.

I feel your pain. Been there done that. I would say that a power float will not touch it tomorrow. 1. You could hire a scabbler and knock all the high spots off, then when cured you could use a floor leveling compound. 2.you could get a company in to grind the surface and then clear epoxy it. 3. If you intend spending a fair bit of time out there I would use a levelling compound and then a nice vinyl tile.

The thinner 100mm concrete prestressed lintel will be way overkill. No load on that at all

I'm sure you are, you obviously put a great deal of effort in to get it right. But @LeanTwo has asked for ideas to get a good finish, I would hate for him to think that giving it a good tamping with a piece of timber is going to get him the finish he needs. And having some prior insight into how to trowel it up could help him out on the day.

Why not just swap the 6inch for a 4inch 840mm is not a large span if only carrying a light load.

I would think you need to look at how you are going to get a good finish If you want this as you finish concrete before the final floor covering goes down, tamping with a board will not be good enough, you will have to trowel the surface up when it has started to set, you will need to make up a board system so you can reach the whole way across to the centre, you will only know when it is the right time to trowel up by having a go and looking at the finish, if it's to wet have a cuppa and try it again in ten minutes.

It's fairly common to have 2 pack kitchens abroad and when you want a change you take the doors off and re,paint.

I was going to say make them out of mdf completely finish, and then take and have sprayed with 2 pack or epoxy. I built a dressmaking table for the wife and spayed it with epoxy primer and then 2 pack white. It has a better finish on it than furniture from a shop.

Any reason the pipe needs to be round? Why not a fibreglass rectangle 100 x32 would this fit in the batten area behind the cladding.

I would always tie it in case you get a stray end trying to pop up. As you walk on one sheet you may find you dip it down which causes the end to try and lift. as an aside I would really try and protect those doors before you struggle through with the sheets.

I was going to come up with a few ideas but it looks like the other lads have it covered. What i I would say backs up nick in that your pipe is a bit small I wouldn't rely on doing some calcs on water volume common sense would dictate that any foreign debris will block that in a second, I would definitely use a larger pipe.

Why?

I'm sort off not understanding what stage you are at. You said foundations where in, have you built up your brickwork to dampcourse level? Or are you casting a slab that a frame and brickwork sits on? Maybe be a bit more of an explanation of what you have done so far, with pics, will get a few more answers.

Sorry to state the obvious but your sips supplier will surely sell these.

Rectum damn near killed them.

Perfect that's what I was thinking. What i I would like to know is why shouldn't I do this? thanks dave.

On a hotel water system we did every threaded joint had a liquid thread lock compound on it, after hundreds of joints I don't remember having 1 single weap anywhere could be worth having a hunt around for a liquid sealer.

This is exactly how I had to do ours on our last house, square tap spout, asked the plumber who did the first fix and he said that is just how they are, take it off add a new piece of tape and re instal, I agree I doesn't seem right I even split a tap spout as I forced it around into the right position.