Russell griffiths

Thanks for finding that, would anybody like to hazard a guess as to the company he got the insulation off.

Morning would like to go down the passive slab route and looking at different companies to supply the insulation. Many use eps and a few xps, so doing some research it seams xps is denser and doesn't absorb moisture as much as eps. But how come eps is so widely used? is it a case of the xps manufacturers are better at making videos on you tube slagging off the eps market or is there some foundation to this. (Pun intended). Any thoughts. What have you all used. Maybe we should have a poll listing manufacturers and who has used who. Cheers russ.

Whoever installed that yellow string line with the block under it. Buy that man a beer, this is the correct way to use a line to check for run out. Anybody putting a line tight to the face risks creating a belly in the wall as you can't see it pushing on the line and you think it is all hunky dorey until it's to late. Top ?

Cheers @Onoff that place is not far from me.

Thanks for that about the white ct1. So any thoughts on a good quality white silicon for use in a shower.

Need the clear to fix a glass shower screen in place, frameless onto the floor, if anybody can recommend another product that would do he job @Nickfromwales cheers.

Anybody tell me a good place to buy this sealant, need a clear and a white. Cheers.

I have just brought a trap for a shower from a British company called mcalpine have a look on the web, I didn't know so many existed. Have you seen a trap that is fitted from above rather than below? I had one on a previous bath it fits to a flexible pipe like you have you hold it in position on the floor with a bit of tape to hold it in place then put the bath in position and reach through the hole in the bath with a supplied hook thingy lift into position and drop the stainless grill on and put a stainless screw in, it pulls it up tight under the bath so you don't go under it at all. I think they are designed for built in units with no actual access underneath.

Lets do that again cos I like doing it. ?

thanks for all the comments I did a bit of searching and good ol you tube comes to the rescue again.

So are we sort of saying you have an Earth that runs all the way from the meter aprox 100m but also have a spike local to the cu as belt and braces type of thing. If this earth runs from the meter box is it a separate single to the swa or is it contained within the swa hope that makes sense. Any thoughts on depth this new cable should be at. Minimum depth required to avoid finding other services. So what is a TT earth and what is PME.

I think the underwater cables days are numbered, it will definitely get removed if and when we get consent for a new house.

Did we get a chance for any pics. Is the affected wall core filled yet or not. I ask this as I remember having to fix a rather misplaced wall a while back and it will be far better to fix now rather than the problem reoccurring all the way through your build.

If you are not confident using it yourself I had a drain guy come out to find a squashed pipe he put his camera down as I walked around with the scanner to locate the blockage, found it in a couple of mins so I got him to scan 3 other pipes on site took about an hour and cost me £80 cash.

This stuff. Fairly evil. Be careful if you have any respiratory problems. Get the wife to use it. Cleared ours up no probs. Or just use a bleach solution and clean off and dry thoroughly before re decorating. The main thing is good ventilation and air movement. Have you a good extractor.

Meter is by the main road, it runs for 180m and then T off to cabin in then travels another 200m to 2 other holiday lets cabins we have onsite. A burst pipe is the thing I have nightmares about. I check our water meter every week to check it isn't spinning around like a nutter.?????

Minimum cable depth. Soas an offshoot to this I'm going to have to put in a trench for this new cable, the problem I have is I don't know the location of the other services down the driveway, water, telephone. So if I go as shallow as I can on the elactric I may avoid bumping into my 50mm water main. ?????? thanks for all the input.

Divining has been mentioned but with all the water around me and in the ground I think it's a non starter. You would think the manufacturer would be on to this and start installing a trace wire thingy in the pipes by now.

I think I won't be able to push a flexible trace far enough. I can disconnect the pipe at the meter but that is a good 100m away from the location I need to find the pipe. Going to add a question to my cable size thread to see if I can get around this.

Does anybody know how to locate a water main. Main is plastic and 50mm pipe so carries a lot of water I need to install a new electric cable and really could do without digging up the water main. The pipe is on my property so water authority have no plans or give a monkeys. Cheers russ.

How is this earthed. Does an earth have to run back to the main switch by the meter? Oris it earthed to a ground spike by the new house by the cu. if it runs back to the main switch by the meter do I run a separate single earth or is the earth combined in the swa. Not the outer steel protection as I know this is not a recommended method any more.

I probably won't need the 3 phase in the workshop, I don't intend buying any serious machinery, it always looks good in an auction but in reality the 3 phase machines are very large and will take up a lot of room, will stick to standard 240 diy/ semi pro stuff. Could the extra phase be run down to the new cu and then used for outside things like sewage treatment and potting shed.

That existing cable had been under water for 30 years it gets lots of light in the summer and I am concerned if I take it out of the lake it could end up being a bit brittle or soft or whatever. Bugger just going to go for a whole new length, just need to work out size as jumping to 70mm is a big cost.

Yes meter box at the top of pic, old cabin covered by blue and yellow blobs in pic, the existing cable feeds the cabin which is very basic probably a dozen double sockets and an electric oven is all that's in there. I would like to get the cable out of the lake as it bothers me where it is as I did hook hold of it one day whilst dragging some weed out. Can swa be joined? Could I use the existing cable to run the garage and a new cable to run the house. Is this silly as by as by the time I buy a 20m piece and get it joined correctly and then buy a new 100m piece for the house I would be better off just getting a nice new bit run the whole length. I was thinking if I pull out that old swa I could use it to feed the sewage treatment plant and also a small garden potting shed the wife wants.

The yellow line will be the new cable, the blue line is where it runs now, on a sunny day you can see the cable laying on the lake bed in about 4 feet of water.