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Russell griffiths

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Everything posted by Russell griffiths

  1. Russell griffiths
    The type of finish I got with a tube of ct1. It all depends what you are after. I wouldn't have this in the house, but a wall that is going to have a big water tank in front of and a load of pipe fixed to it, might be good enough.
  2. Russell griffiths
    I suppose this all depends on what finish you want. It is your plant room are you going to just slap a coat of paint on to keep it all clean or our you expecting a finish to match the rest of the house. Also is it taper edge board or square edge. If if you want a finish to match the rest of the house I wouldn't use anything but what is recommended by fermacel. I have installed 3 square edge boards in a scruffy boot room area we have and have just run a bead of white ct1 along the joints and painted, it looks fairly respectable and would be fine for a plant room/ boot room/ dog kipping area.
  3. Russell griffiths
    I am also thinking of this but thinking of using it on a ceiling. Has anybody seen a rail system that provides a shadow line gap between the sheets. I've seen it on a job I was on but can't find it anywhere.
  4. Russell griffiths
    I would cut a patch larger than affected areas, clean area and prime stick patch on with stickaflex or ct1 smear around edges and smooth off with a paintbrush dipped in appropriate thinner, prime and paint over the whole patch. Go to pub with money saved from all those bent twisted welding rods. Ca Ching. if you remember my original answer to your dilemma regarding the container roof you will recall I recommended STICKING a patch on. So if you had followed this advice you would now be a.
  5. Russell griffiths
    Thanks everyone most helpful ?
  6. Russell griffiths
    I hope your going to put it up in your workshop.
  7. Russell griffiths
    Good on ya mate, smashing job?You can have a diploma ?‍?
  8. Russell griffiths
    being a welding god you should be able to knock something up in a jiffy.
  9. Russell griffiths
    On a different note are you having any external insulation over the durisol blocks ? if so then is this little cold spot really an issue. To completly think a bit differently why not leave them in until concrete is cured, remove timber, smash the granny out of the threaded stud smashing it through to the inside, use a drift to punch it 50 mm into the outside face, cut off flush inside, fill hole outside there i I bet that will get yer brain tingling.
  10. Russell griffiths
    Already suggested that ?
  11. Russell griffiths
    I am thinking of icf so have watched a lot of vids on it. I would want something ready for when you pour in case it goes out of plum, like some studs pre cut and a load of screws handy or a couple of acrow props. Unless you are 100% it ain't going nowhere.
  12. Russell griffiths
    Thinking of our new build rather than this old crock we live in now, if you have the timer remotely situated how have you got the flex from the towel rail to it ? Have you replaced the flex that they are supplied with.
  13. Russell griffiths
    ta very much.
  14. Russell griffiths
    Could I use an immersion timer. @Nickfromwales
  15. Russell griffiths
    Looking at your pic it all looks jolly strong, but do you have any provisions for making it plum. Even after the concrete is poured I would want a way of checking plum and the ability to adjust if necessary.
  16. Russell griffiths
    Following on from another thread, what sort of timer can be used with an electric towel rail, the flex outlet is already in position but is permanently on so I would like the ability to run it for a few hours a day.
  17. Russell griffiths
    They do actually make a thing for this exact purpose,for shuttering carpenters, it is very much like a piece of 3/4 overflow pipe it is placed inside the shuttering and the threaded rod goes through it, leave threaded rod in until fully cured and then remove, you will be left with a very neat 3/4 Diameter hole you can then fill.
  18. Russell griffiths
    If it's got that many holes in it, he's half way there.
  19. Russell griffiths
    Have you done this bloody job yet? Your god like status is slowly ebbing away.
  20. Russell griffiths
    Getting away from kebabs and potholeing can somebody explain a bit more about the ipx4 rating on the towel rail. I have just taken an old towel rail down as I didn't like it being close to the new shower I put in, but to be honest we really miss it so a safe version would be really welcome. The power supply was always on the other side of a stud wall in the airing cupboard so that is ok, the old one just looked so crap it had to go. Cheers off out to get a kebab now it's made me feel hungry.
  21. Russell griffiths
    The last place I built had a100mm slab, but had thickening beams criss crossing it for strength and to stop cracking, after all the faff of digging out the beams I thought it would have been so much easier to go for thicker all over. So we seem to have deviated a bit from the original question which was pipe location. So if I have a 100mm slab where would the best place be to have the pipe, bottom, middle 150mm slab where would the best place be to have the pipe, bottom ,middle
  22. Russell griffiths
    Hmn ok so rethink the mesh, any other ways to fix the pipe except hundreds of cable ties. Would really like to keep the pipe out of the way in case of any crazy men with a long drill bit
  23. Russell griffiths
    We are just designing at the moment, we know we can get away with 100mm of concrete as a non structural floor slab,just a few internal non load bearing stud walls. But for the extra cost I would rather go 150mm as I'm a bit ott and like things chunky. I suppose I could use mesh with pipework tied to mesh which would put pipes at 70 mm below slab finish so well out of harms way. The reason I wanted to do it without mesh is I will be doing 90% of this build myself with just some hired in labour so thinking if I can get a mix delivered that has the same strength as a slab with reo without having to handle all those sheets of reo and holding up on chairs then I can cut out a step making it easier for me to complete on my own. I will ask a few questions regarding slab design.
  24. Russell griffiths
    Got a pic.
  25. Russell griffiths
    If doing a concrete mix with ss fibres added instead of mesh is there a system to have the pipe located more centrally in the slab. All of the clip down systems I've seen fix directly to the insulation.
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