Russell griffiths

TBH I don’t like either of those designs, have you looked at the capacity of both, what I don’t like is the angled bottom, I believe this decreases the capacity massively, all the ones we chose had flat bottoms. I know you are limited by your wall make up but I would personally go back to the drawing board.

Can you enlarge the tanks or move them to higher ground. I had a 5000Ltre tank that gravity fed our drip system. High ground and a good head of water gave it more than enough pressure.

I hadn’t thought about an old photo. DER THICKO. if you are happy they are not covered by a TPO or you are in a CONSEVATION AREA, then whip them down.

It’s about playing good cop, bad cop act very nice, then do what you want.

This isn’t a lot of help really, but I think you are a bit late they should have been removed before your application went in. A tree survey can be geared any way you want it, your paying, tell the consultant your plans and explain you would be happy to plant replacement trees, the Arb officials at the council probably want a report to back up that they didn’t object to removing them, if they where of significance then they should have had tpo on them already. If you get a site meeting with the tree officer, tell him you could have removed them previously without telling anybody but thought it was better to go through the correct channels

@davejura at your area block n beam will only take a day to put in, then another day to insulate, and a day to screed, so it’s not really a long job. I would think timber will take longer and not be something you can leave exposed over winter have you priced block verses timber. I think block will be cheaper things to be aware of, block will take up a lot more depth to install. From under beams to top of finished floor.

Don’t really agree with this, yes it’s true heat rises. Butyou don’t want bedrooms over hot just so some heat can rise up a staircase, bearing in mind the upstairs floor will be heavily insulated.

I have both ally tower in the house on wheels, easy to move kwickstage on the outside for full run, heavy to move, pain in the arse to put up and very time consuming they both do two completly different jobs really.

Ok you have one major problem looking at that video, and that is the concrete specification, you will need to be very specific with your order, that mix is very creamy and has a good cement content to obtain the nice paste topping, you will also notice how dry it is. Your traditional English mix is like some watery slop with some stones, very few English contractors screed like he did, they mainly tamp it with a piece of wood, that’s why they like it wet, and that’s why you read so many topics on people unhappy with their concrete finish. We really are very poor at this over here. That is why @Oz07 said they troweled it up the next day, I bet it went in like soup. Looking at the vid is a good example of how many lads you will need to help, you will need two others to place nicely and rake out, once it starts picking up you will need to work fast, ditch the idea of the kneeling boards they make more problems than they help, by the time it is firm enough to place them on you will find you will not be quick enough to finish it, you will be waiting and waiting, and then BOOM flipping hell its gone to hard to touch it and you start flicking water on top and panicking. You need a board to stretch from one wall to another so you can bull float it and then walk across the board to trowel it up.

It depends what you actually need the tool for in your link there are two trowels the top one is called a bull float the bottom one is a stick trowel both do very different jobs the bull float is used after tamping or screeding of the concrete, you use it in a very smooth motion in straight lines going across the slab to remove the marks left by the screed. After the concrete has has started to cure you then hit it with a stick trowel to remove the marks left by the bull float. For you size slab you will will want to hire a bull float, and by a hand held concrete finishing trowel, buy a small one as you will find a big one hard work on your wrist. You will need a plank that will span from side to side.

Guttercrest stuff is very nice, I just didn’t imagine I would spend £1200 on guttering, excluding downpipes just hunting about for alternative options.

Shotgun, however make sure they have moved away from the window first.

Builders band will be far too thin, has no strength in compression buy the 1.5mm straps and cut into 3 bits. Will only be £3-4 a window.

I’m getting prices for aluminium sectional gutters and finding it hard to comprehend how they work out the ridiculous prices. So has anybody had any seamless gutters, the ones that they make out of the back of the van, I’m looking to find a nice square profile, not the old lady ogee profile. Anybody seen any. Ta very much.

Have you considered the clay blocks that stick together with a thin joint mortar

You could get a monkey to do it if you gave them the correct information and tolerances to work to. But just chucking it at your average groundworks knuckle dragging operatives is asking for trouble they are just not used to doing finished slabs with fine tolerances its easy enough to do, you will just need to pick them carefully and ensure you are all singing from the same song sheet.

So quick and cost effective then dig a small trench down the centre and put a small 100mm deep x 300wide concrete footing in fix treated 4x2 to both walls with chem bolts and 12mm studs level across from both of these and build up your sleeper wall with half bricks missing for cross ventilation lay a treated wall plate on top of the sleeper wall with a dpm under it fit hangers to both pole plates on walls fit treated joists across from side to side screw down to centre wall fit 100mm celotex between joists fit vapour barrier on top of joists screw and glue down 18mm t and g chipboard glue and screw 9-11 mm wbp ply on top for your tiling ensure everything is 100% bounce free ensure a flexible tile adhesive compatible with timber floor. Good luck with your first house,

Why do you want to go timber, if you have to dig out the poor concrete floor, why not install one correctly, dpm, insulation, concrete

What you need is a 45,000,000 litre catchment tank in your garden, I bet with 5 days of solid rain mine won’t rise by 10mm

You may not think so but screws could be a big choice are you having exterior cladding? If so will it be screwed and visible or nailed and visible or secret fixings not visible if you think there will be 100 decisions double it.

I don’t think the lesser angle looks good, why not put a gable on it so it matches the other end. As for planning why not go down the council and ask.

Pictures with a sketch of what you wish to do normally get a better response,as what you are asking could be very hard to visualise.

My local farmer comes around for an hour for £30 with his telehandler, cheaper than buying the fork attachment.

Is a basement in that location really worth the cost?? have you got a ballpark figure of what you think it will cost.

Insulation cart.