Russell griffiths

@Dreadnaught good evening, do you know much about these fibre companies, how the contract works between them and the local council or road owner etc, I’m curious as a company called GIGACLEAR has recently installed fibre to the local village, they came down the main road and turned the corner and up into the village, however they stopped 100m from my front door as I wasn’t on the route they planned. Im wondering about the legalities of this as my house officially sits in the boundary of that village, do they have a contract to supply fibre to a village, or is it up to them to raise the revenue and put the cabling where it is most profitable and avoid running an extra 100m for one extra punter. Would like to to find out the legal understanding of their agreement.

Hi @craig confused as normal, in your answer you say However you also say So are there two lots of regs we need to look at. Should I clarify with bc. Cheers russ.

Just to clarify, we pay £29 for internet, the rest is line rental and free weekend calls.

So I’m a complete noddy when it comes to technology, so please go gently. I want a good internet connection in the NEW house, so my limited knowledge is this, I have a BT line coiled up hanging on a rusty nail by the boundary this used to run the phone in the cabin we removed to build the NEW house. The OLD house we live in is next door this has a good broadband connection that I am happy with, we receive this from BT via a normal phone line hanging in the air, we pay approx £50 a month for line rental and internet. So I spoke to BT and I can connect the old line to the NEW house for a £70 reconnect fee plus whatever tariff I choose for phone and internet. So question really is, if a BT line is available is it best to just stick with BT, can another supplier send broadband down a BT line, does it work like that??? can I get a dish thing??? Any good ?? can I mount a 20 foot tall pole in the corner with an aerial on top and pick it up from a passing ufo??? thoughts please. Russ.

The job in reading is a demolition job, the scaffolding was there to prevent debris falling into the street.

Tanking is normally associated with internal, the same just a slightly different context.

Pm sent.

Not having plasterboard, timber ceiling.

Ok thought so. So why not a steel pile cap. .? or why not extend the pile up to the underside of your steel frame, replacing the need for the little bolt down legs.

Your external dpc isn’t just a sheet against the building this just wouldn’t work, is a fully stuck on system, or painted on. Then a dimple mat against that to allow any moisture to run down to a drain rather than gather against the wall.

What are the piles made of. I think what your structural engineer is proposing could be simplified.

Bar mark is in the first column of your steel schedule

Sorry should have added more detail internal membrane for a ceiling, fitted to timber joists with counter batten to provide service void happy to be vapour closed but I have looked at some of the clever ones that open and close to allow vapour to escape back into the room silly money, I don’t know who makes up the prices.

Never had to buy this before, can anybody recommend a good product that won’t cost the Earth everything I buy that isn’t an of the shelf item at the builders merchants comes with a massive price hike for being SPECIAL.

You will need a drawing to confirm this but looking at that schedule bar mark 01. Is 350 x 250 bar mark 02. Is 350x225. i am presuming here as I cannot see everything but I would think the 3 smaller links insert into the 3 bigger links, at 90 degrees to them so 3 links one way and 3 links the other, they will all need tying on the corners to keep it square. You finished rebar will look like a box or like a very very poor example of a bird cage.

Just looked at the drawing you put up it shows links with 6 bars in them, this might just be an example so look at the exact pile cap drawing.

Have a look at SWIFTFORM from total construction supplies, mention me if you talk to them, it’s my footings on their website. Have you got a steel layout drawing and a bar bending schedule. If you have the bar bending schedule it will make your drawing make more sense for example. You have 41 caps, if your schedule says 123 links then it sort of gives the idea that you have 3 links per cap, if it lists straight bar then that will give you a rough idea that they may be joined with bars, go back to your drawing and it might get clearer. If you are casting bolts into the top of the cap are you aware of all the products you can use that allows bolt placement with a degree of movement so you can line up your steel before you grout.

In that case buy pre formed shuttering that stays in place, buy your re bar pre bent, saved me absolutely days in labour.

I wouldn’t do a few at a time, it will drag on, get them all boxed up, get a ready mix truck and a pump and pour them all in one hit. Do they have to be pretty, are they going to be on show.

Get a quote, see how much it makes you sweat. I had a quote of £12,000 to do my ringbeam, I new I could do it my self for half that, depends how you value things.

As above have just been informed SMART RENEWABLE HEAT have gone into liquidation, had a quote from them for a ground source system. Lucky escape. Hope no one here is effected.

Morning all. I have been looking at a lot of windows and a fair few have 3 rubber gaskets to seal up when you pull the windows shut. Now I know a few of you have gone with rationel windows, now looking at the website it looks like they only have 2 sealing gaskets, am I looking at the wrong windows. Or is this something you have never noticed or am I over thinking it.

I like the look of 300mm above a window it allows good depth for cornice and window coverings, that doesn’t really help you as that’s right in the middle of you measurements. Have you priced up doors? They won’t get dearer at 2330 will they ?

That looks completely arse about face to me, so the outer leaf of brickwork is wet leading to the insulation being wet, nope, I would treat that like a mini basement, needs waterproofing on the outside, lapped down onto the footing. I personally would rather prevent water coming in than let it in partly and tank on the inside like you are proposing.

Cheers all, another problem solved. ??