Russell griffiths

I have a 50mm main that goes into the metre box, it then has about 100mm of 25mm before the metre. Makes no sense at all, but it seems that’s how it’s done.

That will do move on, next job. ??

You have obviously got a Goodun mate. Treat her well. Mine is a cracker as well, I remember being ill in bed and hearing a bang out side I jumped up to the window and she was on the back of my truck unloading concrete blocks. it does amaze me some of the crap wives my mates have. Well done to you and the misses mate. ??

Ok looks like I’m going to put it in then. Nice beech hedge I think.

Ok bit more input, the neighbours drive in question is the one with the red car on it. Our front wall was actually built 3-4 feet in from the road edge regarding noise, that was badly worded, I’m more interested in cutting out the view of the passing cars. Regarding anything on our deeds, there is a covenant saying I cannot impede any visibility to the driveway of the property to the left of the White House, that’s ok as that’s our other place we are building now. There is a map in the deeds detailing an area that must have no structure over 2 feet high, this is on the exact opposite side to the corner I would like to plant in. Regarding having to disclose any past disputes to future buyers. ??? oh god it would be like a 50 page novel. Regarding selling, we believe (unless it all go pear shaped) that we won’t be selling.

Evening all. The house we live in at the moment whilst we build the new one, has a front garden with a fairly fast country road running past it. Now two years ago the view across the road was pleasant so we put up with a bit of traffic noise because of the nice view, however the view has changed as the landowner across the road planted a new hedge which is now 1.5m high so our view has gone, so we might as well try and cut down the road noise. What I would like to do is plant my own hedge on the inside of the low wall you can see in the pics. However this will really impede my neighbour getting out of her drive. Is there anything legally I need to look out for ?? am I allowed to plant what I want ?? FYI I hate her and couldn’t give a Monkey’s if she can see or not. As far as I’m concerned when her house was built they should have built in an adequate vision splay. ( this is something I used to do a lot of at work). FYI. Her house was built in my side garden by a previous owner who was a builder, so my front wall and her house where built at the same time, so he could have designed it any way he wanted. Are there any rules about planting a set distance from your boundaries she likes to go around bullying my other neighbour with verses from the high hedge act ( which I also know a lot about) i have looked through my house deeds and there are no restrictive covenants on anything I can see. Anybody have a view.

Think of all the vat you can claim back.

Why not get a nice piece of wood to match the door and glue it on, I have been using that D4 flooring glue and I bet you would need a hammer and chisel to get it off.

Cracking job, I like people who use the right kit for the job. ??

If I was to build this I wouldn’t want any timber below finished floor height. But to be honest it’s down to how you view this house second holiday home, used at weekends holiday rental permanent family home these will all have an impact on how you build.

Cost shouldn’t be a consideration, you need to satisfy yourself that the construction method you choose fits the site and site conditions and then your wallet. The foundations, walls, roof, design should be the areas to spend your money fancy toilets and stuff you can fit later. What is the risk of water ever coming into contact with that floor if you can say no 100% then you can build it out of rise crispies. It really depends what you want to build, there are a massive amount of houses by me built on piles above the water, but the cheaper ones always look a bit like holiday homes, they never look very permanent. I would also also say to take that quote with a pinch of salt, that will be to a minimum spec as outlined by NHBC you will want to build to a better standard than this or you will end up with a bouncy floor.

It really depends on your site. Topography survey is not a soil survey it is a survey of the land ( the bit you can see ) it will cover heights from sea level, of all things on site, man holes, old sheds old buildings, trees. A soil survey is the bit you cannot see, the bit you stand on, how will you stop the building sink or rise. As I said it is very site dependent if you find a nice virgin site on the edge of a village then your costs would be lower than if you find an ex plutonium factory. A lot of your costs there are very top end, so if you are happy with those figures then that will be a nice bonus one thing you didn’t list was TIME, looking at your list I would presume you are looking at plots with no planning in place. So add on two years from finding to building.

Have just watched a good vid by skill builder, and he mentioned that a lot of the ball race type hinges require at least 9mm clearance so you need to have your hinge choice decided before fitting architrave.

I think you may find it is not dirt and soil but, lime mortar the house would have originally been built with this and the raised soil level has kept it damp so it look squishy if the slate damp Course is intact then leave it there rake out all the joints that are soft and re,point re render a skirt up to damp course level, but don’t bridge the damp course. If it ever stops raining you will probably notice it drying out with the render hacked off.

I would think with that design you will need plenty of outlets it will not take a lot of rain to be up to that front lip.

Acrylic eggshell is what you want not flat, but a hint of sheen.

Steel and concrete, no fire protection needed.

If you are concerned about cables under the plot, you need to find that out ASAP a large electricity cable could be a large amount of cash to move.

Somebody does a steel corrugated sheet that fits on top of a steel ring beam, you then concrete on top of it. Not a fan of wooden floors in a flood risk area have a hunt on you tube.

How are you proposing to make the expansion joint waterproof

Have you looked at the lead hand book i was under the impression that lengths over 1.5m where frowned upon.

You are incorrect in thinking you just fix them on with carriage bolts the correct way is to notch the corner post so the joists sit on a bearing surface of the post, just relying on the carriage bolts is the reason decks fail, some with devastating consequences. Notch the corner posts and then the fixings become less important as they are not carrying a load, just holding in position.

Cut the pockets out in the wall and get a proper joist in there cut the pocket deeper than you need so chop out 150mm deep hole for 100mm bearing cut joist and fit at an angle will be a squeeze but a good clumping with a lump hammer will get it in pack it to the correct height and point it all around noggin the crap out of it.

Don’t know what length you have, but would you need to consider expansion with lead, we looked at a lot of the newer fibre reinforced coatings that are liquid applied lead would need to be solder jointed wouldn’t it, so this would make a continuous run.