Russell griffiths

i Would rather they where too long than short, it is not uncommon to see beams poking into the cavity. If you have a dwarf wall in the centre you generally have them overlapping on the middle span, this gives you your cock up factor.

Definitely a trip hazard, but you won’t notice them under all the other piles of shit and trip hazards you have on top of them.

My friends family specialise in this and have done for two generations. You need to be looking at least 10-15 years down the line. Do not turn it into a nature reserve. Definitely no ponds. And 2-3 years from when you feel you are ready for an application chuck some pigs on it, they will destroy everything.

On the scaffold

Mine have done some serious twisting, like a bloody corkscrew some of them.

I hope you are not poking them in after you have laid the blocks ?? if you lay a bed down approx 1.5m to 2m then push the ties down into the bed, you basically don’t pick up a block unless you have picked up the ties its just a 3 stage process bed ties block. Keep a bucket of ties right next to you you will be tripping over it so much you will never forget them.

My piles came in at about £350 per pile, plus vat. Which was zero rated. That included all design labour and materials.

I did look into hiring the piling rig and doing my own piles, but thought this was one step too far even for me who does absolutely everything myself. After now having had it done if my budget was very tight I would consider doing it my self. However you need to consider the cock up factor, you will need the rig for longer than the piling team as it will take you a while to get up to speed, on my job the rig broke a cable and had to have a new one re threaded on. Down time of half a day. My piling came in at £10500 including the design of the piles, the design of the ringbeam, and the bar schedule. If you have to have a separate engineer this could be a few quid, then you hire the rig, then you have the steel tubes, then you need to take two weeks of you time into consideration. Are you having a building warrent. Having spoken ken about your site, why do you need piles what about an insulated slab.

With your top two rows, will your facia board and soffit cover the top row or two, work out your roof style you may find you won’t see all of it. As for the bricks its its a bit late they should have all been brought at the start and mixed up.

We had very modern vertical sash in the last house i think they tick a lot of boxes all these Euro windows seem to think is ok inwards opening, er why?? Gets in the way, why do I want a window that takes up floor space outwards opening, er why?? Again why do I want to walk past a window on my nice patio with this thing projecting out into the space. With the vertical sash you can have the top down 50-100mm for a bit of fresh air, or lift up the bottom for a big breeze to blow in, they provided very easy fire escape as the bottom lifts up to half the frame height. Easy to fit blinds i cannot see a reason not to like them, unless they won’t close tight enough for the high standard we need over here.

Just watched a property program and they had some nice looking windows that would fit our ideas nicely the house was in Ireland i wondered has anybody in the uk ordered from over the water, or can anybody in Ireland give me some links to reputable companies over there. Hoping i I don’t need a translator cheers russ.

So we are just about to start looking at windows, which I think will be the most stressful bit of the build. We we are looking at a number of windows that we would like as sliding, so open left to right or right to left we are also looking for a modern looking sash so up and down openings anybody got any thoughts.

I find it far easier to stick to drinking jack Daniels and coke. Im afraid you got me @JSHarris with your big words, I am but a simple chap.

What is that used in @JSHarris

My business partner who is a total pessimist wanted to set up a consultancy business called something like JUST SAY NO, it would work by people taking their ideas to him of how they would make their first million, he would tear the idea to bits and tell them not to do it.

Sounds like you need to stand out side with a high viz jacket and a fake camera, whilst the survey takes place make up some fake 20mph signs please make sure you disregard anything I say as I don’t want to be responsible for you going to prison.

I found it was not a case of water run off, as that is fine, what it is is the dirt it leaves behind, the lip has a continuous build up of a residual muck left behind i get on the roof once every six months and give it a good scrub. My roof is very flat probably 5degrees.

I will add that we have no restrictions. But I cut the verges of land that does not belong to me for 100m just to make our vision better, I would not want to scrimp on this for safety reasons also I used to visit probably10 properties a week and the amount of poorly planned drive entrances amazed me, if you think you want drive entrance 2.4 m wide make it 3.4 people never think about deliveries and workmen’s vehicles.

I can’t see how this survey can work as the variable is the amount of work put in by the owner the first two replies from @nod and @Construction Channel Are both blokes that have done massive massive amounts themselves. Sorry really cannot see see how you will get any real comparison.

I don’t really have an opinion on your hip ridge junction, you will probably need to be led by manufacturers recommendations. My only opinion related to the eaves where I was led to believe a small lip will not be an issue, I have since found a video that showed a bloke cutting a flat area for the eaves trim to sit down in. So no lip when you bandage over the top.

If your worried about chemicals, can you not just use water based.

I used to provide the clearance work for a lot of development companies which included the visibility splays is there a reason you would want to reduce the visibility splay, as I would want them as big as possible.

I used an old fashioned mix of linseed oil and something on my deck, it looked stunning but the uv killed it and it needed re doing very quickly. I am now doing my cedar cladding with osmo uv oil, very expensive but so far I am impressed how well the water beads and runs off.

All I would add is when I did my grip roof I was told fit the eaves trim flat on the roof deck and then bandage on to the main roof, I always thought this would create a ridge that water sits behind, as it is such a small lip I was told it’s not a problem. Well it certainly creates more of a lip than I am happy with and I wish I had cut a rebate for the eaves trim to sit in so the bandage wouldn’t have created a lip. Glad this is on the house we will knock down and not on my new one.

Evening peeps. Can I have a few suggestions as to who will design my ufh and supply materials, not interested in install, just the parts. I also believe @PeterW told me about a computer design thingy, but it has been so long since I last thought about this I haven’t a clue what it was called. Thanks, hot and sweaty from Cirencester.