Russell griffiths

I had originally thought I would do it myself, it was just suggested to me today to use the pre insulated stuff, I always thought it was stupidly expensive.

Not Scotland but in an hour down the m4 you could be in Wiltshire or an hour down the m3 you will be in Dorset. Get the car filled up and go have a look.

You may be surprised, I have had 6-7 different visitors to my place and they all came from under 15mins away theres probably more than you think.

I’m starting to look into designs for our hw. One method is a recirculating system where a pump is fitted to the hot and fires up when needed. What are the pros and cons to this type of system, how have you got your pump wired, when does it kick in, timer, light switch, do you use the FORCE and just stare at it. Come on I need answers, the more I look on the forum and pretend I’m doing something the less she insists I help with the washing up. Ta very much.

I’m doing some planning and one method to plumb our house would be to use one of the pre insulated pipes, I’m looking at 22mm or 28mm anybody got any pros or cons on different makes, some of it is bloody expensive, but it’s not an area I’m willing to scrimp on. Any thoughts peeps.

Have just been to the self build centre and noticed that Internorm had removed their stand.

You might be better not viewing by area but by build type, what method do you want to use no point looking at an icf build that’s 10 mins down the road if your going timberframe.

You don’t need a baton at all you are thinking house when you need to think office block, lots of commercial systems that use aluminium bars fitted to the outside of the insulation with long fixings, I think a lot use a counter bracket fitted through the insulation. Still not convinced on your 140mm blocks, good luck getting someone to lay them.

Hi all. So lots and lots of dramas with windows, I don’t do drama, I’m like James Bond never fazed ?? it looks like most of the dramas are caused by the fitters and not really the windows can anybody shed some light on what was wrong, what did the fitters not do, what did the fitters do wrong, how would you put this right next time. I intend fitting my own so would would like to know some of the pitfalls before I start. Having seen a lot of window fitters on site they don’t look a lot different than the scaffolders so I’m not surprised people have dramas.

So the amount of choice is staggering, how do I pick the good from the bullshit. What sort of rating shoud i look for as far as glass is concerned. What do I look for in frames. How do I pick a good frame? i know what I like, I like slick flush non clunky. But how do I know it’s good or better than its rivals. Is it a given that the german stuff will be good or is this just con we have got used to hearing. Thanks for any pointers.

You plonker. And you met me the other day. Did you not know what I used to do for a living. Would happily have done it for you for a bit of exchange labour. Nothing else for it but get in and cut it up bit by bit.

And while your at it go and buy some shorter nails for you nail gun. ??

Oh bugger, that just got expensive. I wouldn’t use 90 bends they are to sharp, but it’s hard to say what you are proposing from that picture.

When I did a bit of radius work, we used a timber former, if the former was cut from ply you would have a plumbing point every 2.4m you kept these plumb and used the former to tap the bricks from behind until they touched the former. I still think the brickies on this will be adding a fair margin of pain in the arse markup.

Thank you all, @PeterW how do you like your 3G upvc.

The five windows are all on a separate facade so I’m hoping it will be ok to alter the look from the rest of the house. Theses are the five, we have no upper floor so they are 4 m above floor level on the inside.

Has anybody done a cost spreadsheet with the average metre cost of windows i would be interested to know roughly what sort of price per m everyone paid. I am expecting mine to come in at the price of a small private jet. Ta very much.

Evening, I think there are people on here that have 3G upvc, we have 5 windows set high up and are thinking we could go upvc as you cannot get within 10m of them so may be able to use a cheaper product up there. Did you find there was a good saving on upvc instead of ally clad, and are you happy with them. Cheers russ.

Pah 1.5m that’s just a boys distance, not even worth a bet.

How far a push is it?? i would be interested to see you push 10 mm up 15mm I may be wrong but the first m will be a doddle, the others may not be so much fun as friction kicks in. Go on prove me wrong.

Cool, nicely worked out, I thought it would be far tighter than that.

Does anybody know if you get a pipe choice with a wunda design, I would like to use an al pex type pipe or are we saying pay the £50 to wunda and buy you parts elsewhere.

I find a lot of these new regulations ridiculous we are at 89m asl, but required a full flood risk survey, our house is built according to the findings in the report which are 700mm above ground level which is 1.2m above our lake level. If that lake was to rise 1m I would think 75% of the south east of England would be under water. Bloody ridiculous.

As above. i Thought it was two things compressive strength ability to still be a good insulation material even when wet. .??????

The original one would have just been mounted on a bed of mortar, you may find it a bit clonky if you have any bowed timber as it will lift the plate off of the mortar bed, if this is the case chuck a couple of concrete screws in to the sleeper wall to take the bounce out.