Russell griffiths

Just looked at the drawing you put up it shows links with 6 bars in them, this might just be an example so look at the exact pile cap drawing.

Have a look at SWIFTFORM from total construction supplies, mention me if you talk to them, it’s my footings on their website. Have you got a steel layout drawing and a bar bending schedule. If you have the bar bending schedule it will make your drawing make more sense for example. You have 41 caps, if your schedule says 123 links then it sort of gives the idea that you have 3 links per cap, if it lists straight bar then that will give you a rough idea that they may be joined with bars, go back to your drawing and it might get clearer. If you are casting bolts into the top of the cap are you aware of all the products you can use that allows bolt placement with a degree of movement so you can line up your steel before you grout.

In that case buy pre formed shuttering that stays in place, buy your re bar pre bent, saved me absolutely days in labour.

I wouldn’t do a few at a time, it will drag on, get them all boxed up, get a ready mix truck and a pump and pour them all in one hit. Do they have to be pretty, are they going to be on show.

Get a quote, see how much it makes you sweat. I had a quote of £12,000 to do my ringbeam, I new I could do it my self for half that, depends how you value things.

As above have just been informed SMART RENEWABLE HEAT have gone into liquidation, had a quote from them for a ground source system. Lucky escape. Hope no one here is effected.

Morning all. I have been looking at a lot of windows and a fair few have 3 rubber gaskets to seal up when you pull the windows shut. Now I know a few of you have gone with rationel windows, now looking at the website it looks like they only have 2 sealing gaskets, am I looking at the wrong windows. Or is this something you have never noticed or am I over thinking it.

I like the look of 300mm above a window it allows good depth for cornice and window coverings, that doesn’t really help you as that’s right in the middle of you measurements. Have you priced up doors? They won’t get dearer at 2330 will they ?

That looks completely arse about face to me, so the outer leaf of brickwork is wet leading to the insulation being wet, nope, I would treat that like a mini basement, needs waterproofing on the outside, lapped down onto the footing. I personally would rather prevent water coming in than let it in partly and tank on the inside like you are proposing.

Cheers all, another problem solved. ??

Ooooh Er. Can you fit mine. ??

Oh. So what is all this fensa stuff, I thought you needed to be a registered fitter. ???

Can anybody tell me in layman’s terms how I can fit my own windows, I intend having the lift and slide door fitted by the supplier but would like to fit the windows myself, what are the legalities of this ??, how does it work with building control ??, who else do I have to satisfy?? bloody hell more questions about windows than the rest of the whole build.

I have an 80 x80 x 8 holding up a 600kg beam with the entire house roof on top, I think this will be very overkill for a fence. I would start to look at galvanised steel box and see what sizes you can source at a reasonable cost.

Yes @Nickfromwales have decided to give them a miss.

Thanks all decision made.

I questioned the cantilevered sections and was told by the engineer that it was stronger than having the pile in the corner as it acts like a counterbalance, with pressure pushing down being equalised by pressure pushing down on the other side of the pile.

Has anybody used wireless light switches, looking for recommendations, or really stuff we should avoid. Or should we avoid the whole idea. I don’t want to work anything from a phone or an I pad, I just want to limit the amount of wire having to get from switches to lights. Cheers all.

@Patrick have a look at this, you can see the end of the ringbeam closest bit to you, if you look at the wire coil you can see a vertical bar poking up, this is the last pile in the row that is set back a good metre from the corner.

Hi @Patrick I have 4 cantilevered ringbeam sections, the piles are set back from the corners by about 6-750mm, I will see if I can find a pic. Design all done by piling company.

Why not glue a sheet over the top of your cast iron one with some crap silicone get it signed off and then just peel it off and Chuck it in the bin.

Are these two places connected, or totally different outfits just using similar names did I hear right that one of them was in trouble? anybody recommend a good source for ceramic goods, bogs etc. Thanks russ.

Can anybody tell me what the new window security regs intail, I thought it was all about locks but have just been told glass choice is important as well. Cheers peeps.

I have been thinking about this a lot more @Conor, with a opening window you get a window frame and then an inner frame (sash) that holds the glass, would it be possible to buy the inner sash with glass installed but not buy the outer frame, this could be fitted to the house and plasterboarded up to giving a thin frame look, it would allow the glass to be removed if needed and drainage channels to work. Just a thought anybody.

Morning all, can anybody point me at the things to look for with a triple glazed unit for example, minimum gaps between panes, gas, no gas? Low e ? Have looked at at a few cheapies that are 40mm units, this I think is a bit small, what ya think.