Russell griffiths

I also wanted an insulated slab, but would need to build up over 600mm to get the height needed, this wasn’t really a problem but retaining that 600mm of Stone was. It will be the same in your case you would need a retaining wall at the highest point to retain all the stone needed to level the site. Alternatively you can have a step in the house half way through the floor area. Before you talk to anybody you would be wise to get a topo survey done so you all know the height difference you are talking about.

It has a lot to do with the gauge of the block work, you should build a STOREY POLE this is a piece of timber 50x50 that will have height marks on it, it could have a mark for top of windows, top of doors, first floor height and so on, the brickies can use this to adjust their block height up or down a bit to hit the design height, over 10-12 courses of blocks gaining 1 mm per course will grow the building by 12 mm plus a brick course you can juggle things a lot. All down to good planning. Or as above just run a ledger board around the walls to simplify air tightness.

Still not sorted it, just looking at plumbing in the next couple of weeks.

Why is the TP so far from the house, why not get it closer and have a decent fall to the tank and a shallower fall to the burn.

Oh Lordy, he was a special type of clever.

That’s not a huge area, could you get custom folded so the profile works with the window spacing. ?‍♂️?‍♂️ There’s loads of new places by me that are having zinc roofs and they are folding it on site and producing custom sheet sizes to go around the windows.

My supplier wanted £1 per m to coat my cedar, I thought this was extortionate until I started doing it myself, it has taken hours and hours and hours. So it all depends if your cash poor and time rich or not, I also found the cost of the oil was more than I had bargained for.

There you go @MortarThePoint bonding coat and a bit of skimming.

Do you have a problem with height? you will spend as much plastering that ceiling as fitting a dropped ceiling with plasterboard what about duct pipes.

I think you will find the floor comes with a minor camber built in at the factory, all the ones I've ever seen have an underside like the surface of the moon, I believe they also have a bevelled edge on the joins so you end up with a big void that needs filling. Lets ask @nod have you ever wet plastered a concrete plank floor as a flat ceiling or do you normally fit a suspended ceiling. Why not ask the floor manufacturer.

Have you seen this done? how do you stop it cracking?

If you don’t have the lowered ceiling how are you thinking of having any ceiling? have you seen the underneath of a concrete floor ? it will be the most un level thing you have in the house, without the dropped ceiling you will have nothing to fix the plasterboard to. You will I’ll need some form of frame be it metal or timber to fix the ceiling to, just reduce the void to 100mm.

Whats the joist spacing, if you don’t have a ceiling yet I would get him to add a load of noggins and screw the hell out of it. Get your better half half to go upstairs and dance around then you can stand underneath and listen for squeaks.

Look up some vids by a bloke called Steve from London flat roofing, he has loads on the different liquid types. The one I looked at sets up with contact with moisture not air so is completely unaffected by the damp.

Surely @dnb it’s not the quality of the batten that needs clarification, but the fixing down method onto the sips panels. You could use the highest spec batten you can buy but if the fixings pull out of the sips then that’s where problems start.

I hope you had some clothes on while filming that @Onoff?

Excellent chaps, another problem sorted.

So are you saying as a quinetic one has no mains power supply I can basically stick it anywhere @Onoff

Evening all. Can anybody point me at some current regs regarding a light switch for an en-suite bathroom. I can do a sketch if you don’t understand my rambling. I would like to put a switch on the bathroom wall just as you enter but I’m under the impression that used to not be allowed and that’s why we have those horrible pull cords, however if I move the switch just 100mm away it would then be outside the room which seams just ridiculous that that would be ok. Anybody understand and what I’m getting at. Anybody know the regs. @ProDave @Onoff

Look at the bright side @£2000 a m you have just saved £30,000++ on your build cost.

I used the Cromar vent 3 pro, don’t buy it from e bay there are a few adverts for seconds knocking about. Have you thought how you will put this on, without installing your battens you will find it hard to reach up onto the roof much more than a metre, imagine standing on the scaffolding with the facia at knee high you can only lean in so much before you end up in the room below, you normally roll a strip out and batten it then stand on these battens to fit the next row. Unless somebody has had come up with a cunning plan I don’t know of.

3 chisels of varying degrees of shitness the one on the right is nearly getting to the paint tin stirring implement stage.

I just buy a new set for a project, use the good ones on good wood, as soon as you hit a nail it becomes downgraded to a semi shit chisel, then when you hit another nail it gets downgraded again as a tool for smashing and bashing. no time to be sharpening tools, leave that for when the house is finished and you have a workshop.

@Dan F just use the same batten quality that you will use to hold the roof covering on.

How is it getting wet ??