Russell griffiths

Look at the bright side @£2000 a m you have just saved £30,000++ on your build cost.

I used the Cromar vent 3 pro, don’t buy it from e bay there are a few adverts for seconds knocking about. Have you thought how you will put this on, without installing your battens you will find it hard to reach up onto the roof much more than a metre, imagine standing on the scaffolding with the facia at knee high you can only lean in so much before you end up in the room below, you normally roll a strip out and batten it then stand on these battens to fit the next row. Unless somebody has had come up with a cunning plan I don’t know of.

3 chisels of varying degrees of shitness the one on the right is nearly getting to the paint tin stirring implement stage.

I just buy a new set for a project, use the good ones on good wood, as soon as you hit a nail it becomes downgraded to a semi shit chisel, then when you hit another nail it gets downgraded again as a tool for smashing and bashing. no time to be sharpening tools, leave that for when the house is finished and you have a workshop.

@Dan F just use the same batten quality that you will use to hold the roof covering on.

How is it getting wet ??

No need for treated your trusses won’t be.

If you buy an expensive set it will really pee you off when you drop it and it hits the concrete tip first. I would buy mid range £25-35 set and abuse them, then when you are fitting door hinges get a couple of good ones, too early in the build for quality ones you will only wreck.

No matter how shit my day has been @ToughButterCup little escapades always bring a grin to my face. Keep up the good work ol fella.

I’m a long way off from doing this, do you want to do a bit of research on different types, as I’m sure you have nothing better to do ??. It will probably come in a 25kg drum so I will have a fair bit left over.

I did grp on my kitchen a couple of years ago in January, it was a bloody pain but came out very good with lots of hard work. I have a small small porch to do on the new house and won’t be using grp again, I will be using one of the liquid single component systems that uses a mat just like grp but cures with contact with moisture so removes all of those problems. Have a search around theres a few vids on you tube of companies changing to it from grp.

Not sure I would go to the cost of installing both, if you need a treatment plant then why the compost toilet, if you install the treatment plant it is reasonable cheap to run the pipework from the other toilet to it, you will need pipework for the sinks and showers etc so another 2m of pipe for the toilet will be pennies to put in.

How about a upvc cladding, no maintenance ever.

Another disappearing poster.

Get a scaffolding co to stick a scaffolding platform to get access to a point from which you want to work, then a tarpaulin roof over the rest of the structure. Will be the best money you spend,

Forgetting the vat side of things, if you leave that building there how much will it hamper the new build, will it add more inconvenience to the demolition of the old house, how much extra agro will the builders incur working around it. Looking at your site I would think they would want a completely clear route down to the lower level, Just had another look, there’s more room than I remember at the right hand side, so you can forget my comments regarding access.

That’s right, but that doesn’t mean giving up your day job and going on a plastering course.

If you have the salary that you say then there is no gain whatever from doing any of the work, stick at what you do best and just sign the cheques, be a very good manager, and not a poor bricklayer.

@ZacP have you had a structural engineer look at yours yet? From the brief look I had at your drawings I thought you had two walls that will be retaining the ground and forming the structure for the next floor to go on. If this is the case I would expect a lot of re- bar, and even an increase in block size to accommodate a larger concrete core for the strength.

Why are you fitting insulation between the rafters ? have you got a room in the roof.

You can two two things. Go to a local tree wholesaler and get some huge black tubs with handles 100-125 litre take them to the new place and install an irrigation system to keep them watered they will dry out very quickly in a pot. Or dig a trench around them at there present location and cut of any roots you find in that trench, back fill the trench with good soil with a bit of compost, every year re dig the trench and prune back new roots, thus keeping the root area under check but in a manageable size. I have done this over over a period of 3 years on a large avenue of trees newly planted when the owners architect changed their mind on the driveway location, took 3 years to get new planning in place and once the drive was complete we moved them over to there new home.

Tele handler and a friendly farmer £150 should see them all up there.

How about using a sarking board.

I’ve drilled after the pour, 25mm hole, 20mm conduit, air sealed with illbruck air sealing gunge.

I would want it to look perfect if you have paid somebody to do it, if it looks inferior to the rest I would want that section re- rendered. Would it be be simpler to fit round vents so they can be drilled in using a core drill so the new round vent will cover the round hole, rather than them trying to cut out a square hole. Just a thought.