Russell griffiths

That board is 80mm thick, if you stood it on its side and had a 10mm x 80mm wide strip of fibreglass on top glued on I don’t think you will ever need to work out the load, the car will glide over it without hardly touching it.

its All about force over area isn’t it. If you put your best high heels on and stand on that eps you will make a big hole in it, but if you stand on a chunk of 4x2 your weight will not have an impact. I also slid a 6mm cement board on top of the XPS, forgot to mention that, just to help with any point loads that the door might have.

@SuperJohnG metal roof, cannot go on battens needs full support. Main roof is I joists.

so by altering the floor height you can bring the insulation up, at the moment you only have the perimeter strip between cold brick and your floor, that strip is normally only 25mm thick.

Sort of but the levels need a bit of adjusting if you draw a diagonal line from out to in there is a cold path through the brick into the concrete floor. You also don’t need the screed, just finish the concrete better and no screed needed.

If I did it again I would use sarking boards but with 10mm gaps one thing I wouldn’t do is the design method that all the roof companies specified and that was ply wood with no gaps, didn’t make sense to me.

Have a look at this, but ignore the block n beam and substitute that for a slab of concrete on the ground. Theres many ways to skin a cat.

under my sliders 460kg I used strips of xps500 cut to the width of the wall, the door sits directly on this, rock solid stuff £70 a pack has done one slider and two doors. Under the windows I just fitted them straight on top of the icf cavity closers, after Jeremy’s mathematics it looks like there is t that much load, my big windows are 240kg.

I have two lots of membrane, metal roof but similar, membrane counter batten, sarking fitted hit n miss style membrane metal roof.

You can never have too much insulation, but it becomes pointless if cold can get in somewhere else.

If you are fitting it from outside hack of the render to reveal your old frame size.

Busy this morning, but that needs a re, think you have loads of insulation in the floor but have missed any cold bridges from the footings up to the sole plate, will be large condensation issue, and massive cold bridge at skirting board level. Have a read back on some previous posts, regarding garden rooms and foundation, loads been discussed recently, you would be better of with an insulated slab.

If it’s terraced house, how will the tiles tie in with the neighbours, do they have a small plain tile or are they concrete ? lots more work with plain tiles, concrete interlocking are quick, but if your neighbours are still on small tiles you will need a hidden gutter join where the old meet the new.

Drill some holes in it to allow any standing water to drain through, that’s what I did before the roof went on, you will need to poke a stick in them every now and then as they fill with crud.

Another icf builder here, I’m not seeing your problem, I have windows all over the place and I think not one of them line up with block ends. Just cut the blocks to suit.

I thought about this and worried for a few days, I then changed my foundation mix to the same mix as the walls to see how it pumped C35 10mm aggregate, it pumped well with no added water and set up absolutely solid, I thought back to how many times I have had a truck of ready mix and how many times it hasn’t set correctly, and suddenly dismissed the test cubes as just another thing not needed. If it was coming out of a batch mixer on site I would be less confident, but never had a problem with a plant mix.

All sheets foamed together, but I buy better foam than is available in the shops. ILLBRUCK air sealing foam. I wont ever buy a tin of the normal cheap shite again, like chalk and cheese.

I used two layers of insulation so I couldstagger the joints.

I have a house with no felt, it isn’t an issue as the roof is in good condition so it’s water tight and allows it to breath. Its really down to if the actual roof covering is in good repair as the felt acts as a second weather proof layer. Its impracticle to fit the felt from underneath so would require re roofing. Really down to if you feel the slate layer is doing it’s job or not.

See told you I was talking rubbish.

My flue changes from the un insulated grey version to an insulated version just before it goes through the ceiling, this allows the flue to be in closer contact with surrounding materials. I think i would go back to the installer and check first, as I might be talking out of my backside, please check.

You will probably end up with a bit of discrepancy in floor level as the areas you knock through into the extension won’t be level so you will be trying to level three or more points into one, I would decide on a finish floor height and work down from there to get your concrete height. Then allow 3-5mm down to allow for cock up factor and before you finish use a self leveling compound to ease out any height differences. Get a laser level set set up and go around and set up some marks on all relevant points, measure down and work out what needs to be added to what areas to come up to FFH.

If it’s like mine then that grill is not a vent, it just has holes in it as a pattern to make it look pretty, as Dave said it is more a spacer to keep the pipe a set distance from any flammable surfaces. As dave said again you probably have a poor install with gaps around the flue which is allowing the cold to travel through the grill.

I don’t believe that for a second, these articles can be very misleading and I bet there’s loads of things missed of her list of expenses.

Any potential to put a couple in there, make some dosh and move on.