Russell griffiths

Are you sure you will need them that quickly, if he has to felt and batten that could take him a while, then he needs to bump all the tiles up. Then if you get him to start on a bit with no windows he might have a couple of weeks in front of him before he needs the windows. Just a thought.

Ok back to my water problems. I decided to go and get a thermometer so we can get some figures to work from. The temperature at the hot tap is 56 so knowing the risk of legionaries is low in a domestic situation then that is probably fine. However this is lower than the scalding temperature it was previously and that has had a knock on effect on the thermostatic mixer shower. The temperature at the shower head is 37 which we find too cold. So a couple of things Anybody know what sort of temperature these mixer valves are set too it’s a reasonable expensive MIRA one as recommended by @Nickfromwales 3 years ago. If the input from the tank is 59 why is the mixer mixing it down to 37 when previously it was hotter. Are these mixers adjustable, I remember when it came there was a funny blue spanner thing with it for some sort of maintenance. I will need to dig out the manual and have a look, but it’s easier asking you lot from the comfort of the sofa than having to deal with the mess I call an office. Cheers russ.

Pocket hole jig ??? look on you tube. Biscuit cutter or if your really really posh like @ToughButterCup you could use dominoes, but only if your proper posh.

Obviously why they are so bloody expensive.

Domino cutter, oooh get you, fancy pants. @ToughButterCup

you will need to remove all the original floors to get adequate insulation in to make the ufh viable, do not believe any of the BS that the suppliers will tell you that 10mm insulation boards on top of a cold floor will be perfectly adequate for your ufh, it will obviously work but you will spend more money heating the ground than heat entering the room. Any reason for ufh ??

Is there not a temperature setting that it needs to be to kill of legionnaires disease.

Morning two part question, I have a vented cylinder that is heated just with an immersion heater, a couple of days ago the cylinder boiled and expanded into the loft tank, so I fitted a new immersion thermostat. What should be the hot water temperature at the tap, I think there is a set temp to stop nasty bugs breeding, it was previously bloody hot, so it’s a bit more user friendly now, however it’s affecting our mixer shower, so I want to start at one point and work out where to go from. Cheers.

My last place was just standard black, very nice and easy to touch up without too much hassle, I would have gone black again but gutter is grey and so is roof.

When I looked into this I was told if I didn’t fit the ufh I would regret it, you cannot go back and fit it later.

He doesn’t know what he’s talking about, if it’s a new build it’s zero rated if you have a set of plans that’s proof you have consent to build a new house, job done just asked the wife who’s sitting next to me, she’s an accountant.

As mr punter said s3 is the slump, how runny it will be, you will need a further specification from the floor supplier or your structural engineer, I would think the floor supplier. It will be the specifications for the strength and the gravel quantity and size. My spec for my walls was C35. 10mm aggregate. S3 slump. C35 is strong, got a high cement content, 10mm aggregate so it gets in all the nooks and crannies between the reinforcement, s3 slump so it will go through a pump but not like water or it will run out everywhere and the more water the weaker the final concrete.

are You not having a wall at that end at all, just tying into theirs ??

Well done mate, cracking job.

Ignore me, posted in wrong place.

Would it not be easier to have a site toilet that you get emptied, and tip your one in it. What are the workers going to use.

A concrete hopper hanging from a crane will hold probably 1/2 a cubic m, a digger bucket will hold nothing like that, you will also find that the amount of slop you loose out the sides will be bad, you will also find an excavator has very little height so any wall over 1.8m high will be awkward to reach. Sorry unless you are on a remote island where you are hand mixing and filling you walls with buckets then it’s just not worth considering. You will I’ll also have 30 minutes to unload a concrete truck before they start charging you waiting time so trying to fill an excavator bucket is a non starter.

I cannot see any logical reason for wanting to do more pours than you need to, my first pour was at 2.7 then the next was at finished height, I used lots of starter bars placed in the first pour 600mm apart, I also put vertical bars at all door and window reveals. If a concrete pump is going to cost you £600 you will waste a lot of money messing about doing little pours. As for the digger bucket idea, just forget that right now, do it right use the proper kit and do it like a professional would, hire a pump job done.

I decided on traditional sand and cement screed laid by hand 80mm thick, I’m very happy with it and glad I didn’t go down the liquid route, the quotes I had for liquid pumped screed where £2000 dearer. I did look at self compacting concrete but couldn’t find a plant close enough to deliver. You need to look at your time scale, my screed will need 80+ days to dry thoroughly, whereas the liquid version can be tiled on much quicker something like 14-20 days. I have been to 3 builds near me with liquid screed and I didn’t like any of them. But that’s me. 180square metres cost me £3500.

I think what i might do is run a fused spur in there as a power source but wait and see how it works.

If he called the police by the time they show up the delivery vehicle will be gone, they will look a bit silly.

I was thinking along the lines of one of those tubular heater things, mounted low, on a timer so it could just run for an hour or so. This is more for the warmer months when there is no heating on. Cannot really put much else in there as the water tank already has its own plant room. Ufh manifold is only hot in the winter when it’s on which I’m hoping will only be about 5 months of the year.

On the plot where we are building the new place we have 2 holiday lets, so we generate a lot of bed linen. We are building in a large linen cupboard in the laundry room, I’m thinking it would be nice to have a small amount of warmth in there as well as some moisture extraction. So my plans are to route one of the extract ducts from the mvhr into the top of the cupboard for moist air extraction. But what about sticking some low level heat into the cupboard. I have my own ideas, what do you lot think. Not needed, the extract will do the job add an outlet duct to the bottom of the cupboard and extract at the top ??? Vents too close together??? or just light a big fire in the bottom of the cupboard???

Thanks everyone i asked this somewhere else and 9 out of 10 answers where eclisse better start saving up.

What do you expect all 3 of you live in the middle of nowhere ??