Russell griffiths

Not yet, I’m very new to this router thingy and just wanted two bits, when I get into door fitting and the second fix stuff I will do a bit more looking. What do you suggest?

I just brought a couple of TREND router bits, very good but stupidly expensive.

Yes, I see this misconception all the time, and it bugs me a bit, if you had a poor finish then it was down to not being done to a good standard and not following correct procedures, English style boarding is not good for taping, boards are too small, butt joins everywhere, poor cutting around obstacles. You dont build a $2000000 house in America and end up with a poor finish.

I did a bit of reading up before I brought my dewalt, is it a type 3 gun or older, there are a few issues with the type 2 guns.

I have the paslode first fix gun and a second fix also, I have just bought the dewalt first fix gun as it uses the same batteries as my other tools, I would buy a paslode and sell it afterwards or what other tools do you have as the dewalt was cheap as I only needed a bare unit. Remember the gas will play up in the cold on the older versions, so if buying paslode I would buy a new one. Wait it till you buy the stainless brads, you will love the price of them ??

I used one of the fancy membranes with the polypropylene mesh on top i wouldn’t use a standard membrane.

Any reason your posts are uc I would use a 90x90 box section as I believe it will be easier to insulate around and clad over.

I taped and jointed my last house and I will be doing the same on this one, however I’m not sure how much money if any this will save you, you won’t need to have the walls wet plastered, but you will need a good team to tape a join it, you would need a good set of skills to do it yourself. I would price up both options. Do a list of costs for both the options and post it up so we can see if you’ve missed anything.

I think you need to go back to the drawing board with this, what you have is not a warm roof at all any more, you will need to re design as a hybrid system, and get a new condensation risk done. You will also need to work out a ventilation strategy as well as a method to stop moisture from the room below entering the roof structure. Or you could end up with all sorts of mould issues.

Any fire bricks will fit, just trim to size with a grinder, I did mine last year.

I used the green coat plx but brought it pre folded, I got it from a co called metal solutions in Bolton easy to deal with, like the product glad I had agro with Tata as I wouldn’t have found these. Nicer product in my opinion. Been on a winter and summer, very little distortion.

If you seriously intend to sell in 3-5 years I would go. Timberframe on insulated slab, insulation levels higher than building regs, brick or stone skin on the outer, anything unusual will be harder to sell, we are a nation of people who like the idea of all this fancy design stuff, but end up buying a red brick tile roof boring box churned out by mass house builders, they cannot build them quickly enough. Save the fancy stuff for the place you want to stay in.

If your down there, you could come up here and design my pipe layout, no time like the present. What beer shal shall I get in ? what time shall I expect you ?

You can buy a plastic wall that has a zip in door in it, they fix up temporarily on extending poles, but you could fix it to a batten on the ceiling. Look up temporarily dust protection.

Has this been designed by a structural engineer, who’s insurance is covering it if it moves, i think you are going about this the wrong way you need a groundworks company to sheet pile, dig out and prepare for slab all in one package, fully insured, in house structural engineer. Looking at your other posts you could be in for a painful experience trying to use a bloke with a digger on a site where you are supporting two neighbours properties. Are you sure 3m sticking out of the ground will hold back the load, sheet piles bend quite considerably, you normally have an internal beam fixing them together and maybe some props.

My floor beams had far more bounce than I liked, it has now gone, must be absorbed by the insulation and the screed acts as one big paving slab.

Cost, I used 80mm traditional, solid as a rock.

@Dan F can you explain your searching strategy you just mentioned. I love finding stuff from from suppliers and cutting out the middle man.

I still don’t understand the prices over here, I paid $25 a m for polished porcelain 600x600 looked stunning. I think there is a massive uplift somewhere because we put up with it.

Buy a roll of damp proof course from toolstation screwfix, couple of staples into top of bearers before they put the floor down.

You’ve just built a whole house, I’m sure you can figure out how to patch that up, c,mon mix up up an egg cup full of board adhesive, dampen sides of hole , coat edges with adhesive, fit cutout back in hole. Fill with fine surface filler, re paint. Sort of like onoff but I don’t like no nails as it’s non sand able so any drips or bits that hang down are a pain, board adhesive can be allowed to squidge out and trimmed back with a knife before filling.

I’ve done mine thanks, it just looks cheap compared to quotes I had.

You would be better off taking £10,000 from your ufh budget and spend it on upgrading your insulation, even your loft conversion with current building regs insulation is poor. Upgrade it now while the house is a wreck.

That’s very cheap, check who’s it is, avoid the gypsum stuff.