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  1. I realise this is a couple of months ago, but I'm wading through insurance at the moment, I did try GSI Southern but just for the benefit of future googlers, GSI don't offer renovation insurance (their website says they do, but when you speak to them they don't).
  2. I'm paying £1.65/m +vat C24 regularised/treated
  3. I'm building a conventional warm roof which is grp on 18mm osb3 on 200mm pir on vapour control layer on 18mm osb3 on firrings on I-joists on plasterboard. I can't see how you can get the vcl down from the lower osb3 deck to the walls to provide continuity of the vcl with the vcl in the walls. Seems impossible. How have others achieved this? On a previous project I put the vcl under the lower osb3 deck and then with a bit of effort I trimmed the vcl in the walls up between every joist and taped it to the roof vcl. However the building inspector this time is clear that he wants the roof vcl above the lower osb3 deck. Any ideas or experiences to offer with this?
  4. Thanks for this reply, sorry for being slow, I didn't get notified of the reply. So you just bonded the entire roof together? I like your thinking but I don't think the building inspector will let me get away with that, so massive long screws it is. I've done an epdm roof once before, it was a really simple roof and it went well. This time the roof has a few complications and I'm trying to decide between grp and traditional felt. I'm concerned about the longevity of grp - I'm hearing a lot of stories of premature failure, plus cracking noises due expansion/contraction. On the other hand, traditional felt is tricky for details and for the edges (I have a parapet detail). I've seen a couple of roofs done in a newish system called Kemper but this is a bit unproven and is very expensive (£85/m2 against £55-65 for grp and £50 for felt). Anyone got any thoughts on my quandary?
  5. Sorry to drag up a (slightly) old post. I wanted to put 200mm pir on my flat roof - but I'm struggling to find cost-effective fixings that are long enough. If it was 150mm pir then I can use 240mm screws from Toolstation at c.£37/100; from the link posted above, if I go up to 300mm screws, the fixing cost is £100/100 ie 3x. My flat roof is about 75m2 so if I fix at 300 centres that's over £800 just in fixings. Am I missing something?
  6. Here you go https://www.breckland.gov.uk/article/4284/Neighbourhood-Plans
  7. First thing to find out is if there is a made neighbourhood plan that covers your plot. You can establish this from your local council. If there's a neighbourhood plan, that should help you identify if your plot is buildable or not. A pre-app consultation used to be a good way to find out this sort of thing, but most local authorities have stopped doing these at the moment. You might get lucky with a phone call to your planning department (look on the council website to find out what hours a duty planning officer is available). Good luck!
  8. Thanks all. The garage has ff accommodation over. Steels have a downstand into the garage so cannot be boxed in. I can do this with a roller (and in the end, I will probably have to) but I had hoped to be able to spray them, just to try something new.
  9. Hi Russell, thanks for that pointer, I didn't even know that spray plaster was a thing. Anyway, from what I've now read, it seems that you need a piston pump airless sprayer for premix plaster, and that takes you into the realm of the pro machines like the Graco Mark V or the Wagner ProSpray, both of which seem to be v chunky money. I'll see if I can rent first (or maybe I am stuck with a mini roller...). Would still like to hear from anyone who's actually solved this first hand though.
  10. Evening all. I'm in the process of building a detached garage block, masonry construction gf with a ff timber frame over. There are two steels in the ceiling of the garage to support the floor above. These need to be painted with intumescent paint and I've bought some Jotun Steelmaster 600wf which is a water-based paint but is crazy thick. Ideally I'd like to spray this on rather than mini-roller it - but I have never sprayed paint before. Can anyone recommend a sprayer setup that would work with high viscosity paint like this fire paiint? I don't know if a simple electric Wagner paint sprayer will do, or if I need to buy an air compressor setup. Appreciate any advice or experiences.
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