Tetrarch

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  1. Absoltely none. May I pop back to my original question. The Jablite (no particular reason for choosing this brand, are others better/cheaper?) comes in standard thicknesses up to 200mm. Listening to the previous comments; to accomodate any unevenness I was thinking of getting a 50mm layer to get a proper level and then laying the 200mm on top - does that seem a sensible plan? Do I need to tape the 50mm layer or just lay the 200mm at an offset and then tape that Finally, the Jablite 70 would seem to suffice - is there any tangible benefit from upping the spec to the Jablite 100? Regards Tet
  2. Concrete subfloor is staying, electrical cables and microbore radiator pipework is most definitely going Regards Tet
  3. Hi guys, Thank you for the responses. Floor is hundred year old concrete. It is a bit weird as it is light in colour the stones are larger than I would have thought is normal now, but it appears extremely solid. I attach a couple of pictures. I am a DIY'er and the 70mm value is from my (likely) builder. His recommendation was to remove and use hardcore under a slimmer layer of PIR, but I went the whole hog and removed everything. Just to re-terate the measurements I have a tiled fireplace with a 100mm upstand. It is 300mm to the bottom of the vertical tiles so I was working on 250mm insulation + 70mm UFH screed + 20mm Flooring to bring the final floor level about half way up the tiles Edit: UFH is for long and low as this is not for a working family, but newly retired Regards Tet PS - look closely and you'll see that the double socket by the floor is actually connected by a bakelite junction box and a cooker switch plate - bodes well!
  4. Hi, I have now removed floorboards and joists in the lounge and have a hole to fill (actually 2 when the dining room is completed). I am looking at a 20mm Eng Wood Floor on top of a 70mm UFH slab and thus have ~30 sq m of 250mm depth to insulate. What is the most economical and effective way to fill this 250mm? After a little research I believe I have three alternatives. A bespoke 250mm Jabfloor EPS (or similar) Layers of off-the-shelf Jabfloor EPS to reach the 250mm A Jabfloor layer topped with a Celotex (or similar) overlay I'm looking for any advice/experience or alternative recommendations Regards Tet PS: Below is a floor schematic where the green is floorboards, the yellow (uninsulated) concrete (to be dug up and replaced) and the orange is the proposed new extension
  5. The 1917 house refurb has a decision point and I am receiving conflicting advice. The new extension (25% of footprint) will of course be insulated. The 1990 (old) extension (35% of footprint) is completely lacking any floor insulation and so I am happy to have it dug up and relaid simultaneously with the new extension. So far, so simple. My builder has advised that I could/should remove the suspended floor (40% of footprint) and infill with hardcore, concrete and insulation to create a floor like the rest. The other option, is to insulate between the floorboards and either use spreader plates to drop the UFH pipes below the joists or (height-dependent) put floor trays with a screed (liquid FL if that saves some height) on top. Is there a huge difference in efficiency between my builder's recommendation and the latter idea? One advantage is that I can do all the insulation myself as a job before he even starts on site Regards Tet
  6. Mrs Tet will not countenance anything else but carpet and rads upstairs Regards Tet
  7. How do I find a "system designer" ? Regards Tet
  8. Thanks for the reply George. I didn't know about the reduced RHI payments. I will certainly have to take that into account. I was thinking a Megaflo for the HWC and these are super insulated. If the HWC is not an issue, then another major issue is the size of radiators needed upstairs. From the research I've done thus far it seems that I would need rads almost double the size of normal and that would compromise some of the plans that I had in mind. Regards Tet
  9. I'm in the early stages of the refurb of a 1917 property in Kent. The rough downstairs floorplan is below - The floor is a real hotchpotch of suspended floor (45% - Green), Previous extension concrete floor ( 35% - Yellow) and New proposed extension (Orange 20%). The current EPC is a horrible 23 and we're looking at using a combination of internal and external insulation to improve this. This may be an opportunity to seal the house (replacing floorboards?) Trying to bring all the potentially different technologies and solutions together is a challenge and every choice seems to lead to a particular specialist supplier that may have a particular axe to grind/product to sell. There is a wealth of knowledge and experience on this forum that I am very glad that I have found. Regards Tet
  10. I was only going by the 25-50 dB estimates. Not a lot of noise, but not none. We currently have a hot tub that is about that volume, so we are aware of how it may irritate neighbours, especially in the countryside where our new house is located. We do have an oil boiler but that will need replacing in fairly short order with something. The RHI would make an ASHP a no-brainer, especially for downstairs UFH, but we'd like to keep upstairs rads small and hot water more "on tap" - therefore an oil-combi would seem to be the most cost-effective solution on a 20-year payback basis. We arre absolutely not wedded to this and would welcome any feedback Regards Tet
  11. I'm looking at a multi-source approach to heating combining Oil and an ASHP. Downstairs will be ~90 sq m and currently the plan is for an engineered oak floor. There will be more questions regarding insulation in the future, but the current consideration is a siting one. The new extension will require resiting and replacing the current oil tank. I am very tempted to locate my new (yet to be chosen) ASHP away from the house for noise mitigation reasons. I understand that there will be a cost/efficiency from an insulated pipe run,, but is there a reason NOT to locate the ASHP on the same (new) concrete slab as the new oil tank and hidden by some screening (open to the back)? Regards Tet
  12. I'm looking for some advice on where to locate the join in a (quartz or granite) worktop. There is also a large island going in so this is not the only worktop The run is for a 4.2m worktop with a cutout for a 800mm sink in the centre. Therefore the choices are for a single join in the middle of the sink or three separate pieces with two joins. The glass splashback we're going to have will have two joins (1 x 1600m, 1 x 1000mm, 1 x 1600mm ), so lining up with these is an option, but this would add some risk with ensuring that the alignment is spot on. The other option is to have two joins elsewhere ( 3 x 1400mm?) The sink we're looking at is mounted and supported underneath so there are no particular structural integrity issues, just the asethetics. Any advice or experiences most welcome Regards Tet