Russell griffiths

Something I will add, make your stud walls as thick as you can 90mm minimum. I have a couple of 75mm stud walls and regret doing it, the thought was to save a bit of space in the en-suite bathrooms, in reality they are two thin to comfortably run pipes and cables in, it is always in my mind that 20mm from the surface of a wall I have a pipe/cable,even with drilling the studs exactly in the centre there is not a lot of meat left for the margin of error.

If you haven’t found a builder and paid a deposit securing a slot,I don’t think you will be doing anything quickly. Every trade I know is booked up for 3-4months solid, any builder taking on complete projects are booked up for the whole year.

If you cannot see it, why waste money on cedral how about just a cement board jointed with intumescent sealant.

Morning. My external timber is cedar, brought for the colour and it’s longevity, I now want to put up a timber ceiling in the front room but I would like to avoid the cost of the cedar, any thoughts on a timber to use that I could stain to look like the cedar I have outside. Comments from @Nickfromwales not needed. ☕️☕️??

You can buy it on a roll that pushes into a grooved Matt you lay the matts where you want them and then just unroll the cable and push it in, you can make any shape you want until the cable runs out. Never used it I’ve just seen it.

When I had my sliding door measurements taken the surveyor would only take a measurement allowing a 30mm clearance at the top, even with all my moaning he insisted that they would not supply a door unless this clearance was adhered to. I would suggest you allow a 20mm gap over the doors, this should not have any timber packers in it.

Who is doing the render ? who is providing a warranty for the render? these are the people who should be specifying the board placement.

Buy it on the plastic round spool, fix a 3inch nail to the end, wind it up every time, if you don’t wind it up it’s your own silly fault.

That’s a fairly standard way of doing the walls by many timberframe companies. I wouldn’t worry too much.

Maybe, but that doesn’t make it right. Have a look at a topic on here of window heads deflecting and stopping the sliding doors working. Looking at those pics,there’s not a lot I like really, just stand issue poor timberframe construction. If your happy following that then then just rip a plywood packer to make up the difference.

As above what does it say on your bc drawings. I doubt very much if you can use timber over the 2700 openings, I think it will need to be steel, the deflection in timber will be huge. I also don’t think the 150 deep timber will be enough for any of the openings, the strength is in the depth of the timber, I would have thought 225mm would be better.

Certainly first coat, then fit ceiling then skim it all.

Your membrane option is best, ask the plasterer, but you could include a strip of stainless mesh to trap the mesh to the block work and allow the plaster something to grab to. Also why not plaster up higher so top edge will be above false ceiling, then you can put your mesh up high and any fear of cracking will be above ceiling height.

Kick them out as soon as you can, you will do them no favours keeping them at home.

Didn’t bother, have just filled the holes in and running a longer lead on the table lamp, we felt that if we ever moved the furniture we would be left with this socket in the floor, so decided against them.

What was his reasoning that it wouldn’t comply.

Isn’t this something your electrician should be specifying

Is £70 for the piles or finished floor at dpc level. My costs. Excavation work £6000 pile mat £1500 Piles £12,000 ringbeam £12,000 blockwork £3500 floor beams £4000 block infill £1500 Labour £6500 that was then ready to stick the icf house on top. Piles went down to 6m house size 240m.

My thoughts are stick to what the structural engineer said, then design in your insulation.

No. 40 is course 240 is fine. The number is the amount of grains of sand in one square inch of sandpaper.

If he’s this lazy now what’s going to happen later. Tell him to chop it off and fix back to solid brickwork, if he whines then send him packing, you have had a lucky escape. Show him manufacturers guidelines. If he said this is what we always do then again you have picked the wrong team.

Where did you get that picture? the problem with pictures is it doesn’t tell the full story, the picture might be nice but it could be horrible to live with. It doesn’t look like a robust solution, just a detail to come back and bite you down the line. I would want a small folded aluminium trim to cover the top of the brick, it might not need to project like a cill. Bricks are very porous.

Gaffer tape Patrick my boy. Flanges only needed for a gas membrane not for damp proofing.

Nice to see you cut out around the windows, so many put a join here that cracks. ?

As above, why block bond it, starter track bolted on.