iMCaan

Thanks @John CarrollI will test that tomorrow evening. As we have not yet moved in, I turned the hot water off earlier and the boiler went off It didn't turn back on while it was off from the programmer. The flow rate started to go down. I will do some more testing tomorrow.

Thank you for the replies. Apologies for late reply. It's a Vaillant ecoTec Plus 635 system boiler. I've attached a photo of the system. It's a few months old but nothing has changed. @SteamyTea thanks. Will see if I can find similar settings on my boiler. @Nickfromwales thanks. I don't think there will be enough space left for the car if fit an insulated boiler cupboard.

Hi I've noticed our boiler is continuously showing water flow temperature of ~64c whether we are using water or not. Shouldn't the flow temperature on the boiler drop down to around 20c when the water temperature in the cylinder reaches it's set temp? You can hear the boiler coming on and going off but the flow temp, though it drops by a few degrees when boiler is off, it remains around 60c. The flow and return pipes to the cylinder are hot to touch. The cold feed is also hot to touch but less hot then flow and return. Shouldn't the cold feed be cold? I got to say, the garage where the boiler is located is warmer then other rooms. Thanks

I got an email from the assessor. It all passes. Yepeee.

Yes, we started ground work in 2021.

Hopefully, the as built spec. is sufficient. Will see by end of next week.

See as design and as built images attached. It doesn't appear to be a big difference in u-values or is it?

I don't think anyone intentionally decided to change the specification. Let's say it was my inexperience. I would have stuffed the house with insulation had I known what the SAPs were for. I think we mainly followed the architect drawings instead, which stated the insulation required. I still added more insulation then what was stated on architect's drawings. I remember tradesmen saying why so much insulation. Luckily, adding more insulation as got the house spec. closer to the SAPs spec (I think).

Thanks guys, let's see how heavy the punch would be.

No, there's no mention of the photos in the email or on the form.

For clarity...We have two attic rooms. In the eaves (unusable space), it's 200mm earthwool in joists. The vertical and slopped wall of the attic rooms are 150mm PIR boards. There's some unusable space on top of the attic room ceiling and that has 400mm earthwool. Within all cavity walls, it's EcoTherm 50mm PIR board insulation.

Yeh we used 50mm pir insulation in walls. The cavity walls were 300mm with in total (100mm blocks, 50mm PIR insulation, 50mm cavity and 100mm stone). 100mm PIR insulation on ground floor for UFH. 25mm PIR insulation for first floor UFH. 200mm earthwool between joists. 400mm earthwool above joists. 150mm PIR insulation for slopped roof.

It's just frustration. I asked the questions to hear the truth. Besides solar, how long would you have to fit the solar? Can they enforce adding insulated plasterboard, which would mean a lot of work?

I was hoping you would just say just sign the form without amendments. How would they know what insulation you have used? arggggh I don't have the funds for the solar After 5 years, we just want to move in.

I hope this thread is in the correct section. Hi The company that is doing our house as built SAPs as asked me to sign and return Part L1A 2013 Specification to sign off the dwelling, see attached. My concern is we didn't use as much insulation as stated on the form for walls (stated 100mm but used 50mm PIR) and floor (stated 150mm but used 100mm PIR for UFH). Therefore, the house won't achieve the stated u-values. Any suggestions as to what to do? We are ready to move in. Should I be concerned? Oh boy this feels bad but I must ask, should I sign it as stated should I amended it then sign it? What are the consequences? Thanks