Jump to content

Dunny1234

Members
  • Posts

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Dunny1234's Achievements

Member

Member (3/5)

1

Reputation

  1. Hi Joe, would this stuff be suitable for an anhydrite screed floor with water UFH? I’m installing a engineered herringbone floor. Thanks
  2. Interesting post. I’m about to hire a sander to do my screed. It’s been down for over 100 days, so slightly concerned I’m really late to the latience removal party. Also, what the best way to do corners, and more detailed areas? Is there a disc I can pop on a angle grinder. Thanks
  3. Thanks Dave. And that’s using 25mm thick battens horizontal and vertical?
  4. Hi all, soon I’ll be installing some vertical larch cladding. I need to merge/blend in with some vertical zinc cladding. It would be a lot easier to use 25mm thick vert and horizontal counter battens to make to the 2 cladding materials merge. the larch cladding is 20mm thick, could I get away with using 25mm battens? thanks
  5. Thanks Russell. The vast majority (90%) is block wall. Zinc upstand is 100mm high, but I fold like the detail shows.do you think it needs the fold at the top of upstand, as per detail drawing? thanks again
  6. Wondering if anyone can assist? Having a zinc roof done on my self build. There a few sections of where the roof meets the wall cladding abutment. The roof sheets are complete, and the upstanding comes up the wall 100mm. I’m now meant to baton wall (38mm), and plyboard it (18mm) ready for the zinc guys to clad the ply/wall in zinc. The zinc installer gave me detail to follow for all the prep work, which I’ve followed to the letter. Whilst doing the wall battons, I’ve noticed that the zinc company hasn’t put a fold in at the top of the upstand, as per pic below. Obviously, I can see this causing problems. do you think I’m being worried over nothing? Should I get the company to include a fold? Obviously, if they make a fold now, the upstand won’t be 100mm high, as per drawing, which could also cause problems Thanks, any advice would be great
  7. We decided to run both, just to have flexibility. As mentioned, everyone seems to have a different opinion on the best way of doing it. After some research, it seems the best company is ‘Cotton Mill’. They supply a decorquip motor/mechanico directional motor that works with Loxone /wired. Not cheap mind £200:for motor. if you, or anyone, has a cheaper/better solution I’d be interested. thanks
  8. Thanks Will, if it’s okay, you may hear from me again? I’ve put 4 core and Loxone to each blind. There just seems to be a 100 ways to make the blind work with Loxone. Somfy seem the most cost effective blind, but does it work with Loxone? I had a nose at your insta, nice build! Thanks again
  9. Hi all, currently doing the 1st fix of my house. Ive installed Loxone tree throughout, and plan to have automated blinds, and curtain tracks. I’m getting a lot of different types of feedback about the best way of doing it. My Loxone installer is fairly new to it, and I just want to make sure we do it the best way. Anyone out there that has done it, or know how to do it? Im keen to keep costs down as much as poss. Does anyone have experience with Somfy blinds working with Loxone? any advice would be gratefully received thanks
  10. Been Installing mvhr ducting. Whilst feeding it through posi joists, I’ve noticed areas where the ducting has been caught on the sharp bits of metal on the posi joists. It seems the damage in mainly on the ribbed areas. Is it fit for purpose? Thanks
  11. Hi all, I’ve just done this. Plastic pipe Hot, cold, secondary return fixed to slab positioned for the kitchen island. I also tee’d of from the cold for a connection for the fridge (ice maker). All pipe lagged. 100mm insulation will be going on top (channelled out to fit pipe work), membrane, then ufh pipe, and then 85mm of screed. (Straight run is electrics) I know some people stay no to connections that can’t be accessed, but there wasn’t really another option
  12. Hi, I’m approaching sorting the floor out on the ground floor of my self build. The FFL build up consists of: 100mm insulation 75mm screed 30mm floor covering. 205mm total The wife wants engineered herringbone, researched it and most recommend glueing it down. Most the samples are 15mm thick, and I’m assuming 5mm of adhesive? Does this sound correct? Has you’ve noticed I’m shy 10mm for the FFL. Do I, 1.lay an additional 20mm of insulation, and reduce screed depth by 10mm. Or, 2. Leave insulation at 100mm, and increase depth of screed to 85mm? Any advice would be gratefully received thanks
  13. Thanks all. It has to be a sun tunnel, roof window won’t work.
×
×
  • Create New...