Big Jimbo

The mains wire dont look like it is 50mm deep from the surface. So as a minimum it will need a capping over it.

My omputer will not let me open your drawings. It's prob me as i am rubbish with tecno stuff. If you are c utting either steels, or timbers into the party wall then yes you will need a PWA. My dads house was higher than his neighbours, when the neighbours cut into the party wall for the steels, they came through into his bathroom, and back bedroom. Oh, have we laughed. (Not). The neighbours didn't chuckle either when i gave them the bill for fixing it.

Sorry, can't help fella. It is such a hard thing to do, matching existing old tiles. I've got a friend who has run a huge tile place for over 30 years, and he says it is all but impossible to match old tiles. So many producers. Good luck.

Inside measurements are used to determine size. Not external ones.

Try and get sombody at the council on your side, with a nice friendly chat, and get them to search the old council records in the building control dept. Good luck.

Welcome. Nice that you will have your family living with you. Goog luck

Good luck On Off. You are certainly getting a lot of crud out, which can only improve things. Fingers crossed for a toastie warm gaff later tonight.

Sounds great, but we need some pics please.

I did One in a clients f-off masssive house. It was in a bookcase, and led into a panic room with comms etc. That was about 20 years ago, and was proper Scooby Do. The best secret escape i ever saw was a pair of robe doors from a clients bedroom, into a secret staircase, that went down to behind the panelled walls in the entrance hall.

Don't know about bespoke and cheap. I used to charge £1300 a metre , and packed up 3 years ago. Internal doors on sliders would be a good bet for reasonable cost.

Looking great, Zoot the Hoot. What you need now is another 10 or 15 0f those to do now, and you would get super quick.

Zoot the hoot. My apols fella, but this is better than taskmaster.

Patrick. I have done loads of Firestone rubber roofs. Some have been simple, and some have been complicated with multiple roof lights etc. If yours is as you discribe, then i would class it as an easy roof. The only thing i would say is that because of the time of year, you will have to use the contact type adhesive, rather than the water based adhesive. You can't use the water based adhesive if there is any chance of frost. The water based adhesive is great, because as you lay, if you get a ripple, you can pull it back and sort it out. With the Contact type adhesive, you only get One chance to lay, It sticks, and ain't coming back up...... You would have to use the contact on the vertical surfaces anyway, but it does make it much harder to do. Your rubber roof would also need to be taken up and over the top of you parapet wall, so your top trim would lap down over it. How is your roof being vented ? If your cladding is vertical, it would need another batten (Counter) in order to provide ventilation. 12mm Osb on your roof is to light for your roof top layer. Looking at your drawing, i don't see your ventilation, or construction working. Can you do a warm roof ?

Same as granite transformations. Never used them, but i would'nt. They do scratch, and the front edge is easy to chip. On dark colours you can see the join within the front bevel. They are only marginally cheaper than the proper stuff, and i'm not a huge fan of that either. Shop around and i bet you will get proper granite for a similar price.

Looks like it could be road tailings. The tarmac they rip up when they are re doing the road surface. Black gold if you can get hold of it.

Looks great. Good luck with the build.

The only thing i would say is punters like the old 10 year nhbc . Will they like an archictect cert as much. Neither will be worth much but.....

Its not about building close, or on a boundary. Its about how close you are building to a neighbours building

I hope you didn't pay a lot. Most kitchen showrooms are just glad to get rid of ex display stuff. Mereway will have given them the units at a huge discount for display, and may have even given them for free if the showroom sells mereway cabs, and no other cab brands. Ex display appliances have a value, but the cabs very little. I once won a contract for a One off designed hand built kitchen with convex, and concave units. Completly exclusive, not another in the world. It wasn't long after i had been voted as One of the top 10 kitchen designers in the uk, so my stuff had a bit of kudos. The cabs were £35k to manufacture, and had been sold at £65k along with another £40k worth of appliances. The contract was cancelled as the guy decided not to move to the uk. I had been paid in full, and was happy to refund for the appliances, less handling (The appliances had never left the factory in Germany.) The cabinets which had cost £35K were now worthless, Although stunning. A guy in Cornwall had them for £2k, which was basically the cost for me to have them transported to him. I do hope that you get it sorted. However, no written contract, you may (by a judge) be expected to accept wear and tear, on an item which has been on display in a public showroom. I know that most of the damaged caused is due to careless removal but........ I would suggest that you go through the items, list and photograph them, and approach the Kitchen Showroom with a "We don't want this to become a problem, and would like to work with you to get this resolved" If they are a big Mereway purchaser, and the items are still current, Mereway may well supply replacement items at minimun cost (A few hundred quid) A Magic man would be able to make most of that damage disappear. At a guess about £300 quid. If you go in heavy handed right at the start, you might just end up with no resolution, and a lot of firewood.

I got skips from Mick George in Bletchley, near Milton Keynes, for my daughters extension, so i will give them a ring.

Im in south West Herts. Not far outside the M25. My daughter is in Wistow in Cambs, so a fair distance unfortunately.

£360 a load where i am, and as you say, don't get much in when wet. We are badly ripped off down here in the Shires.

Total result on the local farmer.

Once you get it isolated, take it off. Take the washer out and turn it around. Wrap the thread that the fitting goes onto with ptfe, and bung it back on. Sorted.

When i was using mine on my roof a few years back, at an angle. If fired, and the nail left the gun. It went through the feather edge fence, and into the neighbours shed. They are obviously very powerful.