Big Jimbo

Give the local drug dealer £100. He can get one of the local smack heads to go and baseball bat the roofers legs. That way he won't be able to go onto other peoples roof and do poor work for a few months. Think of it as providing a service to the locals........NO, i'm only kidding, as he said, you do sound like a pain in the butt.....Only kidding. I think i would get the 1st roofers bill. Lets say £1000. Get the bill from the second roofer who you have used to put it right. Lets say £500. Ask the first roofer to pop round to get his money. Give him the £500. Tell him you have had to spend £500 on getting his work put right. He he want's any more money he will have to sue you. That way you are being fair in my opinion. Finally, learn your mistake. Stop using those crappy internet sites to find trade people.....If they are any good, they don't go anywhere near those.

make a rack and put wicker baskets, or champagne boxes in the holes. You will be able to keep anything you want in them.

The only other thing i would want to know. If you move in without a completion cert. Does the 3 months for vat reclaim start from when you move in, or when the completion cert is issued. The reason i ask is perhaps you might make One bedroom habitable, with perhaps an on-suite. Camping stove etc. You could still be buying plasterboad etc, etc for the next couple of years to finish the house. If you phoned the council, re council tax, and had been paying that for the passed couple of years, would HMRC has an issue with your vat reclaim 2 years later, when you finish the house, get a completion cert, and make a claim for vat refund ?

That is a stunner, and nice and wide.

Or atleast in line with the insulation Peter. Is that your place ? If it is your cladding is still looking fantastic. I wish i had the bottle to build using I-beams. As it looks like i might sell on, i still concerned that so many mortgage lenders consider it "Non standard construction" I wish they would move on. Brick and block is so out of date.

..You have only got stub cills on those windows. A couple of things.Is your outside cladding going on timber battens....................sent you a p.m.

I think it is personal choice, but I would have taller doors and windows to match. I quite often have bi fold doors made up to the ceiling height (2440) everybody says they look stunning. Think of all those big tall ceiling houses you see on the telly. They don't have short squat windows. Swags and tails look best when they are hung from the ceiling. Even if you only make the entrance door and windows taller, it will make the house feel more grand.

I like that, and the fact that you know about tightening things up after hot has been run through. You make great points.

`No party wall agreement needed. Don't even waste any time or money on this. Good luck with your planning application.

Good job. Glad it just tucked under the roof above.

If i ever drive passed, i'm going to stop. Drop a note in saying," Great house, shame about that facia nail being out of line with the others" ???

I would consider building inside the barn, and leaving the barn as it is. Timber structure 4x2, plenty of insulation in the walls and roof. No actual roof covering needed as it will ne under the tin roof. Providing it don't leak. Set on on a few blocks on the floor with a 6x2 floor. stick plenty of insulation in that as well. Build it so you can take it apart, and transfer it to the garden as a posh shed, or summerhouse.

I ran a kitchen company for over 20 years. A dry fit was considered by me tto include fitting the tap, but not plumbing it in. Fitting the basket stainer in the sink, but not connecting the waste. My own thoughts are that the kitchen company should be fitting the tap, and your builder connecting the water to it.

Just remember that "T" marks on deeds are not recognised by judges in planning law. (They have no legal status)

If you are on clay, you will need heave protection under, and the inside wall of your ground beams.

Is your kitchen floor level 2.6mt higher than your entrance hall level ? How are you going to get in there from your entrance hall ?

That front soakaway is going to have to be 5mt from the front of your house......Is it not ?

Where are your bathrooms, kitchen sink etc. ??

Ferd. You have to make Apple crumble, and send me some.

Are you sure PeterW ? I have got a lead main coming in from the street to the boundary. I replaced my end with Blue. Phone Affinity Water to ask about gett the lead coming to the boundary changed, and was told that they have no legal obligation to do so.

That is the best way to get them out. As said workman won't care.

Money, money, money....it's only funny, if it's in your pocket, not there's. A client many years ago, purchased strips of land 20cm wide from loads of various farmers. several years later, land got released by the council for planning. (bought inside the village boundary). 350 new houses. He charge £2k a house to the developer, who had purchased the land and had'nt spotted the 20cm wide strip. £700k later........Nice earner.

I ran my own Kitchen Company for 20+ years. 1000mm would be absolute minimum, and still a pain in the butt. I would normally design 1400mm for back to back working. 1200mm as a minimum. You might just get away with 1000, but you will find it a pain, and may well end up with a kitchen that looks cramped.

Never go up on your tops on a duvet. You will break your neck.

Just be careful of shock. For instance very hot pans. Standing on big bits will be fine. As said avoid the thin bits. Quartz top cut outs should have a radius in the corners of the cut outs. Hobs etc. If they are cut square then they have been done incorrectly. They break from those points usually.