Big Jimbo

Only going from what i can see in the photos. What is the finish ment to be ? It looks like badly done Weatherstruck ?

No, it was genuine Zoot. You should be able to get your body warm, even if its light exercise, or star jumps.

I think it all looks a bit crap from the photos. I don't think they have raked out enough of the old. That new pointing looks very shallow. I would'nt be surprised to see that fall off within 5 years, and look no better than when you started.

Zoothorn. You're not ill are you fella ? Have you been mixing with undesirable people ?

Nice. The colinder bit lifts out if i remember correctly.

Hope you enjoy it. I sold and fitted a fair few, but none of my clients ever used them more than a couple of times. Same with coffee machines.

Fill in the form, quote all three conditions, attach the report, pay the fee and send it in.

He sounds great, and imo a decent price.......Have fun

what are the conditions

Best of luck fella. hope it works out for you. I walked away from a job in banking in the late 80's. It was driving me nuts. I had 3 small children. It was very, very hard, but i had the support of my wife. I was let down by several friends who said "if you ever want to work with me" etc. Helped a few people ad hoc, and worked on a guys house who asked me if i fancied fitting kitchens. I worked up to fitting high spec hand built stuff, and then set up my own kitchen company. Gave me a decent life in the end. Hard but rewarding.

Having your own structural survey done, and having it in your back pocket wouldnt do any harm, and if it does turn out to be a nasty, you could get a quick, cheap, render job done on it, and flog it on. Best of luck with your sale. Big Jimbo

I would not read that as being part of the builders spec. Not down to him to finish imo

I think that one of the things that this sort of problem tells us is the importance of how high upstands, and things like lead flashing need to be done right. When extending existing properties etc. I can't count how many rear extensions i have done over the years at the back of my houses. I have never taken out the back wall in order to put in a cavity tray, yet when building we would always stick them in above windows etc. That's why when say, cutting in a flashing to dress down on to a single story flat roof extension, it so important to not skimp of the height. (ie mininum 150mm above roof surface) upstands for roof windows etc need similar consideration, damp proof courses to ground level etc. It is surprising how high water can bounce, or track upwards. Just my morning thoughts while i have a cup of tea. Hope you get it bodge sorted Pocster mate.

It must be something about the area where i live. I have never seen a dry ridge system fitted on any house, that i have thought, wow, that looks neat. It always looks a mess to me. I have seen many new houses being re-visted by roofers to re do them because they are leaking. I wonder if it is just that the trades dont know how to do them properly.

Is there any damp course in the walls, or floor ?

Should sort it , but don't use silicon.... Find something better mate

The roofing material should run all the way up the upstands, and over the top....... His fancy arsed walk on glazing should only be bonder to the top of the upstand,Not the sides. He should have a nice gap between the sides of his frame, and his upstands. This should not be filled with anything, just a nice gap. Any water running down the sides of his frame drips to roof, and any water bouncing off the roof up the sides of his upstands cant reach the top because the upstands are 150mmat there lowest point. Poor old Poc ain't got that, so he is going to have to try and seal his frame to the side of his upstand.....But that is a bodge. But he now aint got a choice. It a case of what does he fill it with.... What would your thoughts on something like Tigerseal be Joe ? Its held all the panels on my van together for the last 10 years, and i believe it stays slightly flexible...... I hate Silicon out doors Never lasts long term.

Basically, your upstands need to be much taller, and the sides of your frame need to have more of a gap to the sides of your upstand. You ain't got that, so now it's a bodge. You ain't got a choice. Bodge, Market, Flog, Leggit. Only kidding bud, but you can't sort it how it should be ........When you gotta bodge, you gotta bodge.

Glad you read my post fella. Don't fill that gap. Doing that is just a bodge, and in the long run will just cause you more problems. You defo do not want to be providing a bridge for the water. Just think about an old stone cill for a min. The water hits the window glass and runs down. When it gets to the cill, it runs along the top slope, gets to the front vertical face of the cill. Gets to the bottom, and turns back in to head towards the brickwork. What stops it reaching the brickwork is the little channel that is cut inti the bottom...... when the water hits that it can't travel any further towards your brickwork. It drips. If you fill that up, then you are providing a bridge for the water, that is now able to reach your brickwork, and make it seriously wet and damp.

Basically you have a T shaped metal frame. At the top of the frame, Nearest the sky, you have got a bit of glass that is bonded to that frame. If that bonding has broken down then it could be leaking from there. If it is not. then any water that hits thats glass will run towards the outer edge of the glass, over the bonding material, and over the very top edge of the metal frame, and start to run down the outside vertical edge of the metal frame. When it gets to the bottom of the frame, it will try to turn 90 degrees onto the very bottom edge of the frame. This part of the frame should not be touching any of your roofing material, as this will allow the water to track across. (We dont want that).....If your sealed frame is not screwed through the sides of the metal frame, and into the sides of the upstands, then that is a good thing, as that is another area where the water could track across......If you glazed frame, and bonded glass, has simply been fixed with silicon or whatever, to just the top of your upstand, and not the sides that would be ok. If however any of that silicon has come down the insides of the frame before tou plonked it on, then this could be providing a bridge for the water to cross. You DO NOT want to be filling behind the gap between the inside of your side, vertical frame, and your upstand. Certainly not to the bottom, as this will just provide a nice bridge for the water to cross. You want a nice gap around the bottom of that frame, in order that the water has nowhere to cross, and gravity forces it to drip down onto your roof covering. Can you take it off, and re-silicon it on, using silicon or whatever only on the top of the upstand, and insuring that there is none going down the inside of the vertical frame ensuring that you are not providing a bridge ? Your upstands are way too short, but i guess you know that already mate.

You are a liar on both counts......And you failed to tell me that it was written by Costello, and McCartney

Much older. Remember my age fella. we are talking 80's the best music era.

Pocster. "What goes on in that pretty little head of yours. What goes on in that place in the dark ?" Now thats a quote from a song, and i believe they could have nailed it. I'll give a tenner to the dogs trust if you can name the song, the Artist, and who it was written by. Jimbo

Pocster. The things that must go on in your head. ? We could make the contents into a film. But who would play the part of your inner thoughts ?

Love that Ferd. That ain't you on a scooter is it ? ?