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Kernow's Achievements


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  1. Yes through the tongue is the standard why of using them, just not fully convinced that face fixing with them will be adequate, as the head is so small. Thanks JamesP, looks good. Hardly noticeable there. Thanks
  2. Interesting, if you used tongue tite did you fix them through the face of the board or through the tongue? Do you have any pictures of how they look now?
  3. I had considered screwing it, but adding up the screw cost of £800-1000, versus a nail cost of approx £200 it’s going to be nailed. Probably going for hand nailing, as it will all be face fixed, so keen on the improved accuracy of hand nailing it. Labour is free, if a bit tedious
  4. What nails would people recommend to face fix Siberian larch. obviously stainless steel, but lost head or round head? I prefer the discreet look of a lost head nail, but has anyone had any issues with pull through or movement with lost heads? Thanks
  5. Can anyone recommend a good air tightness tape for using with EPS based ICF. we have built in Nudura and looking for a tape for the window/door junctions? Thanks
  6. Thanks, yes I had thought of an aluminium trim, was just wondering if anyone had any examples where they had done similar. No worried about mesh etc as like you say save a steadying, likely too draughty for anything to live in there
  7. We are going to be having a section of timber cladding over render on our build. Cladding will be open joint random widths, over a black tyvek membrane. How has everyone dealt with the bottom detail where the cladding and render meet? Has anyone used aluminium trim, so that you don’t look straight up behind the cladding, and also to tidy up the bottom edge of the membrane? Or have you just let the membrane flap and rendered up behind the timber? We will be having aluminium trims over window heads etc, so not a problem to get more made up. I’m also aware that we need to keep the cavity behind the boards ventilated. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
  8. Has anyone got any experience of using British Grown western red cedar or larch cladding? original plans for our new build were Canadian Western Red Cedar, but now that costs around £100 sq m we are looking at other options. Both British Grown Cedar and larch come in at about the right cost, but I am concerned about the knot frequency/size on both. How unstable is British grown larch? I am assuming cedar is the more stable. Which has the most consistent weathering when left untreated? Any experiences would be great. Thanks
  9. Thanks for all the feedback and thoughts guys. I know it’s a hotly debated topic so it’s interesting to hear so many different opinions from experienced builders and self builders with such vested interests in there homes.
  10. What is used on the flat ceiling parts? I understand the lack of need for it on slopes with pir, it just adds an extra layer for condensation risk. I can see the benefit of both ways, I have come across properties in the past with excessive condensation on the breather membrane due to too much moisture travelling upwards, but also times when the vapour barrier has caused sweating. It seems there is no definitive answer on this one
  11. Perhaps the attached photo makes more sense? pir between trusses stops just above ceiling height. Loft space to be unventilated
  12. Woulld you say this is also true on flat ceilings with loft insulation as opposed to sloped ceilings with PIR? I know it’s a highly debated topic
  13. Thanks for the responses, Yes I’m happy with taped joints being sufficient on sloped ceilings What about on the flat ceiling under loft insulation?
  14. Hoping someone can help with a bit of advice as to whether we need a vapour barrier in our roof construction. Roof make up is raised tie trusses, 150mm pir between trusses, 60mm pir on the underside of trusses, taped to form a vapour barrier, then plasterboard. On the flat sections of ceilings we will have 350mm of Rockwool type loft insulation. My dilemma is do we require a vapour barrier fixed to the underside of the ceiling timbers, and taped to the pir on sloped ceilings, before we fixed plasterboard? Is standard green vapour barrier suitable? My thoughts are using this will help with air tightness and limit moisture travel upwards? Any opinions would be appreciated.
  15. Interseting, I’d not thought about making our own fills up. What material have you made them from? Timber? Yes slate is an option, did you increase the insulation height on the inside to reduce the potential cold bridging?
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