Mr Punter

I don't think the 45 degree rule applies to you as your extension looks like it is Permitted Development.

It is normally just under the soleplate. Is that going to be a cavity tray at the bottom?

I think is is Hardie Plank Cedar texture in Light Mist.

Is that Light Mist colour on the cladding? I have it on my house but with non-textured boards.

Could you do 50mm Xtratherm / Celotex with joins foil taped, held in place by 25 x 50 battens then 15mm plasterboard? You could even staple a VCL to the battens before you board.

Nice. Tell more. Did you make them? Are they automated? They look like sliding but I can't work out which way. Pics during construction may be good.

I like to use CT1 for the joins in the substrate boards - Hardie Backer or whatever. Not as good as proper tanking but for a shower it seems fine. Then just tile, grout and then go over the internals with silicone.

No, silicone. CT1 does not finish well and discolours.

We apply CT1 to the joins in the cement boards. Tile and grout as per (2). Silicone to internal corners.

It is going to be so much harder to coax people into that shower with a paint finish like that.

Then it is beyond reproach.

Why did you have it before the PRV? It would have looked neater the other side and no pipes crossing and no hosepipe issues.

You could have pendants with long cords, so the light is closer to the area being lit. Any spot lights may be so high up as to have little effect. Have the lights at about 2200mm from the floor. Means you can safely access for cleaning / changing lamps. Look at wall lights / table lights / standard lamps as well. Make sure they are easy to switch, so you don't have to spend time groping about to operate them.

You will need proper plans and elevations. You may need planning consent / Prior Approval / Certificate of lawfulness. You will need building regs. Why do you think you need a Party Wall Agreement?

Run over the stuff with a wacker until it stops compacting. For future reference Type 1 properly wacked makes better blinding than sand.

A building near me has used this. They have perforated fence panels with metal posts. A guy I know did some of the house cladding. No fun to work with. It is very heavy , the rust gets everywhere and it may pollute your garden. Can you not render the concrete wall or build a brick facing and finish the top with some alu or stone copings?

Light colour Corian is a real pain to clean and marks very easily. Scratches quite easily but does not break. Seamless joins. Granite is good if you find a colour you like. Can be broken on impact. Glass can scratch. Marble - a bit softer and stains and can be broken on impact. Quartz - decent stuff in light colours is expensive. Does not scratch stain or break. Timber - a good deal of work to maintain. The least sustainable species are the most durable. Polished concrete. Expensive and looks are personal taste. Specialist install. Make sure you really like it.

No electric so I have LED strip powered from a Makita 18v battery and a buck converter.

With bedrooms, unless for single occupancy it is good to allow 750mm either side of the bed for bedside table and to walk around, so for a proper double room, put the bed on a wall that is at least 3000mm. Also, make allowance for wardrobe / clothes storage of at least 1500mm per person, 600mm deep. Work out where curtains and blinds are going and how you will operate them. Is it worth spending a few quid with an architect for some quick sketches? Get a quote first.

No it will not crush. As long as the block are dry you will be fine. If not, run DPC over them.

Well maybe Gustave Eiffel had a Total Station and just kept it quiet. Shared it with the Forth Bridge chaps. And Brunel. They bought it from Abraham Darby.

The trouble is everyone wants the job to be safe but few want to pay for it. Smaller windows can be handled really easily. If you have things over 100kg you need to pay to safely get them to where they need to be. It costs.

Some very sorry tales of Ecohouse. For those in Scotland, Internorm by Scotia seem to have a good reputation. It goes to show how important the agent / dealer / installer is. https://www.internormbyscotia.co.uk/

I agree with @ProDave. The Aico stuff seems really good and decent value. They have the same base for all the different sensor types, so, for example, it is easy to swap out a smoke alarm giving false alarms in a dusty area to a heat alarm. Mine has a separate control panel so you can easily test, locate and silence from one place.

It would be handy if you have a survey of the existing structure and the foundations as well as the proposed location for the steels in the existing building. The architect and engineer should be able to prepare accurate drawings and confirm sizes and just make them subject to site checks by main contractor - to cover arses. I assume the steel fabricator is supply and install? He should also produce some fabrication drawings.