Mr Punter

Yes. You can use a few strips of ply / OSB to bring it back in line. With the external walls we normally staple a sheet of clear polythene as a vapour barrier before plasterboarding.

There is no magic to be had. You can choose infiltration (unlikely on heavy clay), a sewer or a watercourse. And instead of dykes I believe they are now called LGBTQ+, although I could be getting confused.

You are going to a lot of trouble to enhance the sound on The One Show. SWMBO should install some software to ban you from the AV forums.

Not ever had to put one of these in. Is it a Scottish thing?

With the EWI, if you use graphite XPS it will need to be quite a bit thicker than the Kingspan to get the same insulation value. You will need to work out or have assessed what insulation value needed to pass building regs, then work out which product will be easiest / least expensive. You will need a SAP assessment for Building Regs in any case, and the assessor should be able to guide you. With the render finish you can fix the insulation with a combination of adhesive dabs and mechanical fixings and finish with mesh coat / render system. With the timber cladding you can cover the boards with non-flammable breather membrane holding it all on with 25 x 50 vertical battens (screwed through the insulation into your existing walls) onto which you fix the cladding. In both cases, the insulation boards are closely butted together. The thicker the insulation, the more expensive the fixings. Make sure there is provision for fixing downpipes, aerials etc.

If you really wanted to do it you could raise the cill up a bit and have some insulation under. I am not sure why you would want to do this though. Can't they be integrated somehow?

The Hardie Plank is also available in smooth finish.

Agree that there is not that much going for your attempt, but at least we can see that you are after a 3 bed house upside down design with parking and roof terrace and the size you have shown indicates that it will fit so not such a bad start. Maybe have an en-suite on the ground floor and shared bathroom level 1, WC level 2.

You need enough space for bins, perhaps laundry, drying, bikes and perhaps a shed, plus table and chairs in private space. It is probably down to what neighbouring places have.

Do be very careful as these places can be quite a money pit.

The black polythene over the insulation and under the pipes is debonding / separation / VCL. Not normally anything over the screed apart from floor finish.

Well you will need the digger for the trenches and backfill anyway. If you scrape off the topsoil nice and level lay some terram then get the stone / crushed in you will probably be able to save some if you have the space to stockpile.

A lot of the pipework is quite deep and there is lots covering that area as well as a load of chambers, pump station, chambers and tanks. If you install this after building the house, the whole area will get completely trashed. At best, if you have fair thickness of material for the hardstanding you may be able to scrape it off and stockpile it before you dig the trenches etc.

I have some adjustable ones and they definitely go to 35mm as @nod says. You can get fixed height as lo as 18mm. I have porcelain pavers on my roof terrace. I think they are about 18mm. Don't rule out having a small step up from the inside. You will hardly notice because there is a door threshold. On another property we have a step up of about 160mm and it is hardly noticeable. We did it because it had slightly different ceiling heights to the rest of the terrace but we wanted the balconies to line up horizontally. 1.0m depth is really tight to do much with. 1.5m gives you proper space and extending out by 500mm does not require significant engineering. May need planning amendment though.

Yes the elevation and plan clash massively. The upstairs study will be about 3 feet tall. If you are just trying out ideas then fine and some are good. If this was from an architect I would sack them.

I thought this was supposed to be a chalet bungalow with a hipped roof and dormers?

Hello and welcome. It is unusual but useful to have a cottage with high ceilings. Have you made a start, or are you at the planning stage?

If you wanted to build something more complicated you would have to really try hard!

I think you will need a movement joint between the materials. If this is a parapet type wall it may be good to bring the flat roof waterproofing layer up and over, or certainly run it up 200mm behind the cladding. Finish with a quality aluminium coping.

Stop it you hippie.

I would have stainless steel restraint straps externally. Have the top bent over top of the sole plate and then rum down the outside 500mm and fix to the blockwork with plugs and stainless screws. Get them 1200 long and cut in half. Light duty if the engineer says it is OK.

If labour is cheap in Lithuania I would get them painted and delivered.

If you have a section drawing it would be useful. Handy to see foundation, ext level, slab, insulation ffl etc.

The Wago 221s should work for solid and stranded - thick and thin.

Another vote for skirting. Or you could tile.