Mr Punter

Yes this is acceptable.

If you have not done this before it will be much less painful just to get a price. £7,500 works out at £220 per metre. Is that price all inclusive labour, materials and muckaway?

Would sacking the builder kill you? I would have let him go over the 120mm mistake or made him swallow all the costs for remedy and prolongation.

Best with treated but most firms offer the option at a price, so ask them and you will have a like for like.

They may find that they can apply a studded membrane to their side of the wall, form a channel at the base for the water to escape and build up a metal stud wall in front. They would lose about 80mm from the width of the garage. I notice they have an overhanging gutter. Is there an easement for this?

Yes you need to apply to have the condition varied or removed https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200126/applications/60/consent_types/11

I have done this with stone slabs on a bed of sharp sand / cement a bit wider than the slabs, haunched around. If the porcelain is thick and non-slip I don't see a problem.

Was going to suggest different rooflights... Doh!

Worth a call to the manufacturer. They can ping you a manual. They could wriggle out of warranty if it is not to spec.

I think you would need to line the underside of the rafters with 30mm PIR with a VCL. Ventilation could be above Tyvek type membrane, ridge vents, soffit vents and rafter trays, tile vents etc.

I seem to remember reading the cold bridges only run for about 1.5m along the walls and not worth doing more. Also, you have to consider having a step in the wall, re-doing the skirtings and loss of internal space. My feeling would be to do just external walls. Does warm batten mean battens on top of insulation so you have service cavity?

I have never known muckaway to be less than estimated. Does not seem to matter how much more you account for bulking, it always comes to more!

@nod I think it could mislead others when you quote your build costs, as you are a very experienced contractor and you and your partner did all the work yourselves. The OP is looking at getting trades in and should budget at least £1,500.

If that pipe just connects to the soil system you def need a trap .

You will need to apply to have the condition varied or removed, giving your grounds for why it does not accord with policy or whatever. If they refuse the application you can appeal it. It is unusual to have ALL pd rights removed. Often just "No enlargement, alteration..." etc. Post the wording and reason and someone may give a better reply.

Not crazy but with that sort of figure I would get 3 quotes.

Perhaps google "fluffer"?

Need to get the customers in the right frame of mind somehow, I guess...

You main points seem to be: 1. Availability and safety of parking. The solution would be to provide on-site parking and turning within the application site. 2. Safety for road users due to increased traffic. Seven or ten flats will not make a large impact on safety. Unless there were proposals to build an estate of, say, 30 houses I cannot see any issue. Do you have any other agenda?

Cement board is a pain to cut and tile adhesive sticks to it so well you may need to smash the boards the remove the adhesive. At least with plasterboard it just turns to sog. I quite like the idea of the Wedi board type stuff which is lightweight and waterproof. Not used it though.

If you have a pump station, do the run in 90mm black MDPE. Run it in the same trench as your other services. Convert to 110mm brown pipe to a new chamber and gravity pipe to the sewer / final chamber. If you have a high or variable water table, the pump station chamber needs encasing in concrete.

I thought this may be the case. A bit of a pain under thin tiles. Not much sticks to DPC very well.

You may want to use a mortar resin or a strong mix in a pointing gun if you chase the joints out. Make sure you vacuum them first. An apt user name!

Your ledger board will restrain the walls better. With the masonry hangers would you be chasing out some of the mortar join?

Would decent tile adhesive give a better bond? When the bond fails with tiles, it tends to be on either the tile or the substrate, which is why they are often best primed / back buttered.