Mr Punter

@kxi and @Dreadnaught I have bought the Illbruck Compriband TP600 external sealing tape on ebay in the past at a very competitive rate. Keep it in the fridge before you apply it. I found it easiest to do after the windows were in. I have never used the internal stuff, just TP600 as external seal, squirty foam inside and polythene VCL to lap. I guess the inside stuff is to stick to the frame and VCL?

Steel rebar has fallen around 18% from the peak in May 2021. I think there is some profiteering going on over here!

Build up from the footings in blockwork, then swap to York Stone as soon as it will be visible (if it is suitable for below DPC). I think it will look better. Lap the floor DPM up and onto the DPC.

Privet can work well. If you are looking at Eleagnus, consider Elaeagnus × ebbingei 'Gilt Edge'. It is lighter and is variegated.

As per manufacturer spec. Often 2 fixings per tile for vertical.

M10 bolts are fine for connecting the timber to the beam. If you use the universal / adjustable hangers you can face fix or wrap over to set the joists at the level you want. https://www.strongtie.co.uk/products/detail/joist-hanger-with-adjustable-height-strap/769

You can hire a Hilti gun and shot fire the timber to the steel.

I have to agree that having neighbours, relatives and passers-by pissing in your ear while you are spending a shedload on a complex building project is enough to push most people to their limit. Put them on ignore. Hopefully this is the dark hour before the dawn.

You will need a lot of very long drywall screws to fix your plasterboard. I don't envy the tackers.

Glory work at last! Not a favourite job for anyone.

Until September 2022. You did ask for a guess.

It you post up a detail someone could help. If the soffit is vented, you could use this. You will either take your render up to meet the soffit or render first, then butt the soffit up to this.

I don't think I have seen a concrete conveyor. Does it come with the concrete truck? Any pics?

Dig or drill a hole. If you are doing a basement you should do a proper geotechnical survey to establish soil type, strength cohesiveness and water table.

A few points: At least part of the decking is more than 30cm above the original ground level so planning consent should be required. Fire risk is not an issue here as the structure is less than 15 square metres. The roof is discharging rainwater onto the fence and may be overhanging.

If you focus on insulation and draft exclusion, your space heating needs can be significantly reduced. Maybe stick in some electric panel heaters for a quick fix. If you can stretch to an ASHP it may be a good bet, especially with underfloor heating.

I am not sure this will impact on the dormer and roof proposals? I appreciate it would for a further ground floor extension, which would be measured from the 1948 building.

Yes but if your Council do not consider it to be PD you may have to undo the work.

You need to contact your Distribution Network Operator. This will very depending on where you are. Ours us UK Power Networks.

I have had some that are out by 20mm. Solid packing under studs and grout from a mortar gun between packers. Make sure the packing is either all under or all on top the DPC. It is a pain if it is mixed. The structural grout goes off surprisingly well, even if it is a bit messy.

Hi Tom and welcome. From the elevations it looks like you share 2nd floor windows with your neighbour? I like the loo / utility. I have done similar in the past and it works very well. I would be tempted to have an insulated solid floor throughout the ground floor, and masonry walls for the extension.

A wall vent may be OK. You can get them with an adjustable internal grille. Drill a 4" hole, line with plastic duct, fit an adjustable internal grille and an external terminal. High up works OK but make sure you are clear of the window lintel.

You will need to compact the concrete with a poker which is where it can go wrong. 900mm would be the max I would go to but if 450mm is practical then even better. Leave for a few days for the mortar to go off before pouring.

I think it is the metal leg that is the issue. You could put a small piece of cardboard under each foot. The tile is best supported on a full bed of adhesive.

Any chance of breaking out the old floor so you can get it properly level and insulated?