Mr Punter

Don't forget you have the door lining width about 30mm as well, so you will still get some architrave on there. Are the doors standard or made to measure?

I would guess this will be about a third of what you have spent to date.

Cab you talk to someone in your local Building Control departments? They must be familiar with these. From the picture it looks like brick and block. I guess if you looked in the cavity you could see if it had a steel frame?

Can't help but I would be interested to know what the Crittall solution cost?

Wow! I would want them to include the bricks for that! Not being a bricklayer myself, is it trickier to build with a wide cavity? They often seem to like to build the inner leaf with the wall ties poking out, then the outer leaf later.

Any BBA? Sometimes Building Control can be sticklers.

Hello an welcome. You may find that Estimators Online could help with the costings. The programme will depend on your build route, how hands on you are, your experience etc. You will need building regs drawings and spec to show foundations, drainage, walls, floors etc.

Yes, I see the Ancon ones now have a tab each end, presumably to help retain them so maybe a requirement.

The Alitherm 500 is pretty poor in terms of insulation. It can only achieve a Window Energy Rating of B and I guess this is for a large window with high spec glazing. Comparing window u values is difficult as it is dependant on the glazing and the window size. They should really give you the value for the frame (Uf). Smarts are a bit naughty and give you a U value for a window including glazing. Have a look at https://www.reynaers.co.uk/en-UK/product-selector-0 and you can have a play with various options for frame style, function, energy efficiency etc. They are open about their Uf values.

They are wrong. You can get special permeable SUDs compliment paving which have gaps between the units and you are supposed to use special bedding and jointing materials. The cost is over double.

Agreed. I don't want the hassle of opening the door down, pulling out a rack and rooting round trying to find something. Just run overnight and fully unload in the morning.

I have used Smart Systems in the past. You could look at Raynaers and Schuco as well. These are mostly all ali products IdealCombi, Velfac and Rationel are all from the Dovista group. Rationel are the most favoured by installers I know who do all 3. They are mostly all ali clad / composite products.

With a 100mm block wall you could fix 25 x 50 vertical battens infilled with Rockwool, 16mm horizontal resilient bars and 15mm soundbloc plasterboard. Do this both sides and it only adds 112mm to the bare block size.

These do not need to be airtight. Just having the floor at the base and the ceiling at the top will be fine. Important that the insulation and vapour control (tape or poly) are intact and no external air can enter the service void.

The battens give you a service void space - to fit cables, sockets and switches. If you need to fix heavier stuff like rads you can add wider timbers to those areas. You could fit polythene over the Celotex before battening, or use aluminium foil over the joins. There is not much point in adding 25mm mineral wool in the batten space. It will prevent you adding other wiring etc later should you want to. You could consider leaving a gap in the battens for wiring to run horizontally. Apparently if you have a socket on the wall you can run power cables at the same level so that if you decide to install another later on you can just cut out and install another. Your 50mm of Celotex will make a huge difference. Leaving the batten space empty means it is classed as a low emissivity gap and counts a bit towards your total u value.

Looks good. Quite a hassle to plan and build. How much do you think it cost per chimney?

If you have prior approval for a PD loft conversion, what are the LA about to enforce and how do they know you have not built as per your PD?

With a chalk cob wall I would want a decent cavity.

My noisy ones are the folded add-on type. The extruded ones are not such an issue.

I have 3g and notice the noise of rain.

Something quite rigid like Rockwool slab?

+1 to @jack I am doing concrete next time.

Compriband

Or even a semi pedestal?

Not really a crime against humanity compared to the f**k ups I see from most plumbers.