Mr Punter

SSQ or look at the range at Roofing Superstore https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/browse/pitched-roofing/roof-tiles/slate-roof-tiles/natural-slate.html

It is well worth getting a sample. I had a front door with painted finish and it looked cream rather than the white I ordered.

I have seen this on a project. They had some breathable insulation on the outside. Probably like the Steico stuff. Also, some internal walls have OSB sheathing added for racking strength.

2 of the Wagos with 3 terminals. Don't connect the earth if there is none on the transformers. Blues on one Wago, browns in the other.

As it has not been specced by an engineer, just buy the cheapest that will fit into whatever gun you have. If it is just 6mm studs just use rawlplugs and screws.

You are unlikely to sever a finger with a 4" grinder. A tendon, maybe. Eye protection is at least as important, Sometimes bits of blade can flick up into the eyes.

Can't the straps go on the inside? less likely to corrode.

It is not easy to tell if timber has been treated. @Faz 's "old school" approach could lead to trouble as it looks like a commercial scale site. We have recently used a community timber recycling scheme, where we keep the waste timber separate from other waste and they come and pick it up and take it away. Works out half the cost of skips. We also use a firm to collect waste cardboard. Just break down the boxes and store them in the dry. Free collection. I think we could have sold it had I had the time.

It is not a great plan but if the fire is very hot you can get timber to burn fairly cleanly. I guess the alternative is that it goes to landfill. Many years ago we burned all the timber from a bungalow on site.

Not good enough I am afraid. There is plenty of time to finish this and tidy up during lockdown. I will give you another 2 weeks, then I expect some photos.

Not sure where your FFL is related to the photo but I assume it is top of brickwork. Maybe look at removing the top course of blocks and filling cavity down to the foundation with concrete to get to your 140mm bearing. You could then run some coursing bricks and a course of Marmox Thermoblock as an insulated base to the timber frame.

From the photo you only have about 250mm wall thickness. If you are going with brick outer leaf you would lose a fair bit of space to internal wall insulation. Actually the cavity may be a fair bit wider - just the angles and the higher brickwork playing tricks.

Just tell them you are using 32mm pipe. 50mm will be expensive, expensive fittings and meter and not difficult to install.

I would go with Screwfix cheapo coach screws like these https://www.screwfix.com/p/turbocoach-coach-screws-yellow-zinc-plated-8-x-70mm-50-pack/38295 I don't mind an impact driver if I am the person using it and I have a similar attitude to multi tool. Both are very annoying when used by others!

2mm is a very small tolerance. Is there not a trim you can use to cover the gap?

You could hire a diamond chain saw. I would get a grown up to help.

For future reference if you have a load of cuts on reveals it is worth hiring a petrol masonry saw. Ear defenders, goggles, waterproofs and you can just spend a couple of hours chopping a pallet of bricks in half. Strangely satisfying. Obvs this would be before the bricks are laid!

You can't do that. It is OK where there is a door or a window but with the second detail you have shown it may well need tanking.

The inclusion of this in the planning objection will make no difference. Planners are not concerned with who owns what. The overlay drawing from Survey Hub did not show anything of note.

If the house is on level ground, the dpc would be the same all round but the ground will be higher at the level thresholds. I quite like the blue bricks below dpc.

A mixture can be good. Evergreeens like Eleagnus x ebbingei Gilt Edge, Viburnum tinus mixed with some deciduous like hornbeam and beech. You can get mixed native hedging bare rooted and although it takes 3 years to establish it is v. cheap, looks great and good for wildlife.

I assume the Survey Hub plans is based on Ordnance Survey mapping. The OS site plan can be a good starting point when tackling for these issues. If you post up the Survey Hub plan (anonymised) it may give a better idea.

It would be sensible if you could take photos of the boundary, including any reference points if possible, so that if they install a fence in future you can ensure it is placed on their land.

The forum at https://www.gardenlaw.co.uk/ is a good resource for these issues.

Ebay is a good call. Look for second hand ones near you.