djcdan

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About djcdan

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  1. Does anyone have experience of using concrete lintels rather than steel for above doors/windows?
  2. Our BM wouldn't match insulation and drainage quotes found online. I bought 150mm insulation a few months at £43/sheet. The lowest the BM would entertain at that time was £55. Likewise, I bought my drainage well ahead of schedule last year. 3m length of 110mm S/S was £6.99 + VAT when I bought (that particular supplier has now increased 50%). BM was above £10 + VAT per length. Luckily, our contract with our kit supplier was fixed in Jan this year, so the bulk of our timber and insulation cost has been fixed prior to increases in 2021.
  3. I order bulky items (block/cement) from our merchants and aggregates from the local quarry, but literally everything else comes from online retailers. As well being MUCH cheaper, the selection on offer with online retailers is far larger in comparison to BM's allowing me to find the precise product I want/need. I daren't think how much a budget could slip if I only used a local BM for all materials.
  4. Thanks all @Moonshine @James Newport @PeterW I'll make contact with Condell.
  5. Does anyone know of any steel lintel supplier taking orders right now with a lead time without 8 weeks? I have been in conversation with Keystone for several weeks and the order was all but confirmed, but this morning they confirmed that their allocation had been taken up by a large house building firm and wouldn't supply our build... 🤨 Not impressed that we went through all the pre-sales chat to confirm our order to be told this after order confirmation. Has anyone successfully placed orders for steel lintels recently? If so, with who? TIA
  6. Thanks - added. I did mean to write that 😏 Is anything required where block meets roof verge or soffit?
  7. Our outer skin blockwork is scheduled for July/August, and ordering materials ahead of schedule considering shortages. Below is a list of materials I'm expecting to purchase. Have I missed anything? Our construction is pretty typical - timber frame with 100mm block outer skin. In the main, block will be rendered, but other areas stone cladded. Materials list Block B.Sand/cement/plasticiser 100mm DPC Concrete sills Steel lintels Cavity wall ties for timber frame Expansion ties Have I missed anything - maybe sundries/consumables? There will also be strong-ties to fix the frame down, but these come with the kit.
  8. I am also leaning towards option 3. One of the windows we have is 3.6m wide, but the largest sill is 1.8m. I presume the best solution here is to install two against each other and paint over the crack/use some form of filler to smooth the crack?
  9. Unloading finished, and no return transoms. But the supplier has apologised and shipping out the missing pieces expected to arrive next week. I've already arranged for a few mates to come over Saturday to put the scaffolding up, so the returns won't have arrived by then. I'm therefore planning to install the runs in place with a transom and change around to a return transom when they arrive. So I can install the runs the correct distance apart, could I ask someone with Kwikstage up to measure the distance between the two runs so the return transom can slip in to place once arrived? Cheers 👍
  10. Before potentially ordering the incorrect external sill size, I'd like to check I'm ordering the correct size. Below shows three concrete options available to us. Our timber frame will be blocked in a 100mm skin with a 65mm cavity. The window would be pertruding out from the frame by 50mm. The aluminium sill leading to the concrete sill is to scale and taken directly from the manufacturers drawings. We'll have a 19mm render and in each of the drawings shown, the overhang is 40mm as per building regs. My questions mainly relate to installation positioning and the amount of 'overhang' required between the aluminium sill and the concrete 'lip' on the main sill. Personally the third options seems best, but I am unsure as to whether the sill should be installed this far in to the cavity position? If the inside edge of the sill should be installed near-enough flush to the inside edge of the 100mm block, then the first option seems best. The shape and installation of the middle option doesn't seem to suit, but could be wrong on that.
  11. Maybe this is what the supplier has done. Return transoms were on the invoice however.
  12. Not so far. 2/3 of the way through unpacking and if these are normal transoms, the return transoms are currently no where to be seen. The majority of the transoms I have are the two pieces welded together as you mention.
  13. Can anyone identify this piece. It is a transom, but ever so slightly lipped edges. I ordered some return transoms, but was expecting there to be a more obvious manner of connecting to the perpendicular ledger such as what I'd seen in online demonstration vids. Can anyone advise on this?
  14. @PeterW @Russell griffiths Thanks for that. I've adjusted our schedule to suit your suggestions. Roof on first. Lucky bastard getting screed at £17/m2 😅. We're paying near double this as we're rural so our screeders are doing a 290 mile roundtrip!
  15. Yes, TF inc window and doors. I was wanting to have trades inside whilst I'm up on the roof. I'm allowing myself 4-5 weeks to have the roof complete, and pushing this first of all (with nothing happening inside) would essentially delay the project by 4-5 weeks. Our funding has come through the Scottish Government so has a deadline attached - after which the interest is hiked - so cannot really take a 4-5 week delay if that can be avoided. If it's advisable to get the roof on asap, how about: TF Roof Electric/Plumber Insulation UFH Screed Studwork MVHR Or if all studwork needs to be in place for the plumber/electrician, have the studwork slotted in to the schedule after the TF?