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About djcdan

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  1. We didn't use an architect for the design stage, however we do have an architect now to conduct stage sign offs who did give the plans a once over when he came of board. Imo, that is too little based on your plans and involvement. I have completed a lot of the works myself and project managed. We'll come in around £1450-1500 per sqm. We also live in a much cheaper part of the country (Argyll) in terms of labour costs compared to Oxfordshire when trades have been needed. I'm sure others will pitch in with views, but I'd say £2500 per sqm would be a better estimate, especially considering builder shortage at the moment. Now I have been through most of the process myself, £1500 with a builder is a thing of the past.
  2. I'm needing to source some 75 x 38mm timber to be used as a stud for a non-structural partition. The only timber I can source locally of this size is green treated. Would there be any issues with using this? The merchants have several other carcassing timbers in other sizes, but it needs to be a 75mm stud. I have read differing opinions on this through the wider web. Some say no difference. Others say nails degrade at a faster rate in treated timbers.
  3. What type of shower head do you have on your ensuite that wets the floor? Is it angled down, like an overhead, or pointing out towards the direction of the opening on a rail? I am looking at placing the rail on the longer wall - maybe 400mm from the end wall - so the water is pointing towards the 1000mm screen and the overhead on the shorter wall pointing directly down. I'm expecting some spray/splashing to get out, but definitely want to be avoiding puddles as you mentioned
  4. Thanks. This will be our setup. Apparently an overhead shower doesn't wet woman's hair 🤷🏻‍♂️
  5. In our ensuite, we'll be having a walk-in shower. The shower tray has been purchased (1500 x 900mm) and am looking for a suitably sized screen. I currently have two options I am considering: 1) 1000mm fixed screen. No deflector 2) 900mm fixed screen. 300mm deflector The room won't be a tanked wet room, so whilst splashing is fine, I wouldn't want excessive water escaping during a shower. I'd like to go for the 1000mm fixed panel for aesthetic reasons, but am a little concerned for that reason. The area around the shower opening will be tiled with electric UFH, so it would dry, but just wanting to avoid the nuisance of managing. Our water pressure is decent. The compromise would be a 1000mm screen with a 100-150mm fixed deflector (not overly keen on the hinged deflector. We need that in black trim, and struggling to find an option for this that doesn't break the bank. Does anyone have the experience to say that the 1000mm fixed panel would be fine?
  6. Cheers. I'll remember for adhesive depth to match tile depth It seems there are differing opinions, but this might be the better solution for us. Another of our shower trays is installed against a stud that has resilient bars and double boarding, which has a depth of 46mm. So having the tray butt against studs would mean a significant amount of the tray becoming 'lost' under the res bars/double board. Lol. I have left tile choice down to the other half. No idea what she has planned, but pretty sure she won't be choosing a dark green tile. 😂 Considering I've already bought our shower trays without upstands, I'll seal it and leave myself with extra beer time 🍻
  7. I am a while off tiling yet, but will be setting out the bathrooms imminently and want to double check I have understood the makeup of tiling around the shower tray correct. One of our shower trays in enclosed and has studwork either end of the shower tray, so want to ensure I am leaving adequate space for the shower tray etc. This is a cross-section of my current understanding. Moisture board (blue) fixed to studwork (yellow). Shower tray (light grey) butted against the moisture board. Then tile adhesive (dark grey) applied to moisture board and tiled (green). Am I correct in saying there is a 6mm allowance for tile adhesive and a 'standard' porcelain tile has a depth of 8mm?
  8. Purchase the kit through BPC Ventilation and they will provide a layout design also.
  9. We plan to have electric UFH mats in the ensuites upstairs and trying to work out the materials needed. The floor makeup is 22mm chipboard on joists at 600mm centres. Within three spaces - between 1.5sqm and 3sqm - we want to install UFH mats. Two of these spaces will have a tiled flooring and one carpeted. It seems standard that a chipboard floor naturally has a little 'give'. What floor make up is required in the tiled spaces to ensure longevity of the tile floor and best performance of the UFH mats?
  10. I've had trades who have supplied and fitted zero rate their invoice on applicable materials. If Pasquils are fitting, then the VAT should be zero rated once you've provide you PP reference. If not, then VAT would be payable and claimed back as you did before.
  11. Thanks. Would you recommend with or without a HP12 base layer? Cement board - Self-tapping screws - (or something along these lines) PH Glue?
  12. We have a renderer on board. We've had discussions with him who has said he has K-Rend on his house and that if we're ok with the occasional clean (algae can grow on the silicone render in our location), which we are, then we'd go with that. They have also given the option of labour only and supply & fit, hence looking in to this in greater detail. None-the-less, the control freak in me wants to understand the system down to the fine detail to ensure I also consider this best 😅. We're in quite a rural location, tucked out of the way with little outside influence from other locations. Sometimes the trades here recommend things just because that is how things have always happened, with the more 'current' products not yet filtering their way through. I've read render warranties aren't worth the paper they're written on? The manufacturer would always find a fault with installation - however small - and installer site blame on the product?
  13. We're currently finalising details for our render system and planning to get this on order in the next week or so. We are set on having a K-Rend system laid directly on block skin, but have a few questions: i) Which system, between the FT or K1, is better? I can see that K1 can be sprayed, but other than this, there doesn't seem to be much between them? ii) We have steel lintels. I have read that render board can be secured to the face of the steel lintels and the render applied to the render board. Is this the best way to do it, and if so, what is recommended to secure the render board to the steel - fixings or an adhesive? iii) Other than the bags of render, it is only beading required by the renderer to complete the job? iv) Is it recommended to use K-Rend HP12 as a base coat beneath the FT or K1? I see some mentions that the top coat can be applied without the base but a thicker layer. What would be the reason not to use a base coat? v) How thick should the layers be? vi) Can anyone recommend any suppliers (other than the usual building merchants)? Thanks in advance!
  14. Cheers @nod. I have purchased a few rolls of the Airguard Control VB based on your recommentation, so thanks for that. Quick question, can you clarify the abbreviation of PB? On the ceiling and walls beneath the coombs, the plasterboard will be applied directly to the timber of the trusses/roof frame. I presume they'd be no issue with laying the Airguard right beneath plasterboard with no air gap?
  15. Once at ground level of the first floor, does it just terminate at the joists, or continue somewhere? Polythene is what is supplied via the kit manufacturer, Scotframe. Is it worth purchasing my own? Any idea on the correct way to lap around the Velux's?