Mr Punter

600 centres is standard for trusses here. Have you considered using slate hooks instead of nails? No slates rattling in the wind and they seem more secure.

OK. Just wondering, would you recommend the Eclisse pocket door system to others?

I must say that this seems an unconventional way to procure a building.

Yes I think you may want to trim the metal threshold. The lugs on the side of the plate look a bit crap. I guess they were to locate it in the frame, for the benefit of those installers who follow the instructions... If it looks really crap you could maybe get something from a shower that would work, but your glass looks quite thick.

I have never heard of such a tight tolerance. Why the hell would you want to add cement board? Just check that the threshold is completely level, fit the door and fill the gap at the top with plasterboard / mastic or whatever.

I understood this was because there may be future new stormwater sewers and you would have the opportunity of connecting to this separately.

£35 for peace of mind seems pretty good.

No, I am. The OP is not on mains gas either and I earlier commented

I am doing 3 flats and could find no reason or practical way not to fit gas combis.

The RHI would pay out £3,290. I doubt the figures would justify it. Both systems are probably good for 15 years and swapping out a gas boiler is half the cost of ASHP. The electricity would probably cost more than the gas.

Oil boilers can be smelly, dirty and expensive to run, so I can see how a heat pump can compete. Where a property is served with mains gas, which is used in 85% of UK homes, there is no compelling reason for a heat pump.

I think the 826 metric size and 838 imperial are fine.

Well the fittings certainly look posh!

I have 5 amp sockets for bedside lights, with 2 way / intermediate switches either side of the bed. Can't see myself grappling for a phone and launching an app for this.

I would have thought you would lose the flange in the depth of the bedding material - mortar or whatever.

You may need a rim board or blocking between the joists and restraint straps running down the masonry. Did you get the roof designed? These details are normally part of the design.

Were those basalt wall ties expensive?

Outside looks straightforward if you just bring the paving level up adjacent to the door and have an ACO type channel level with the top of the cill.

You will need to do some maths here to find the sweet spot between internal area, cost of footings, cost of wall ties and cost of insulation. A 150mm cavity gets a passable u value with platinum blown beads. Use thermally broken cills and lintels. Use Marmox or Foamglas course at the base of the internal blockwork.

Is there any way you could post a sketch of the section through the threshold? Do you need to adjust both inside and outside levels? If this is not actually going to be used for wheelchair access you could just bodge a transition ramp that is later removed.

The inner leaf masonry where the door is connected runs into your house with no breaks. That explains the front door noise. The top hat should be resilient bar. The stair may be fixed to the masonry.

I have used blocks to make up levels. It is quite time consuming as you need to lay them flat and butt them up as tight as you can. You will need some MOT to finish it. If you just scatter the rubble you will end up twisting your ankle or falling over on it.

I have had some measured by OS mapping.

It is worth contacting either a concrete pump firm or a nearby concrete plant to see if they have someone to recommend?

I agree that with Velfac the Compriband is easier with bigger gaps you can get your fingers in, or dry fit the frame, remove, apply tape, chuck back in the hole but on a hot day with a heavy window it can be tricky. I have used a wide blade scraper to help.