Seeoda

At some stage I want to take down the dry wall anyway for fitting speaker wire and a TV so I might use that opportunity. If I go ahead and end up installing a lot of soundbloc plasterboard I hope it helps keep the house in future heat waves

Luckily the stairs isn't so bad. Its more perpendicular to the party wall then parallel which probably helps. Thanks for the tip though. I will be looking to see if the timbers touch the wall. Just to answer this, the wall would already be nearly nine inches of dense block, and sand and cement on both sides, so the challenge is to know whether adding more mass would have any meaningful impact. The triple leaf effect is supposed to be significant when you have multiple narrow cavities that each further amplify each other. I wonder if it applies to here.

The floor is poured concrete and screed. The minimum a stand alone wall could be is 80mm? Is this the same with steel or wooden studs? I guess the current drywall and cavity is about 25mm so I guess Id lose around 60mm more if I replaced it with stand alone wall.

I have a semi-D with relatively good soundproofing between my side and the neighbours. The wall build-up is block-on-flat, sand and cement on both sides and then steel hat channel and drywall on both sides. Mostly the party wall provides adequate soundproofing. Conversations and telly are not heard, however, some sounds do get through, such as the neighbour's front door shutting and stairs. See pic of their front door. It is a structure borne noise and I know these are hard to reduce. Given this unwanted noise is actually not loud, is there any hope to reduce it? Assuming there are no gaps in the cement coat, I am wondering could the drywall cavity on both sides be creating a 'triple leaf effect'? One person advised me that removing the drywall and wet plaster or to use drywall with fibreglass attached that is not touching the block wall. Would this make a difference? The triple leaf effect is something a lot of guides don't mention. The house is three floors and really like a slice of the cake, cut from a cake, the rest of the terrace, given how tall, wide but shallow this house is. I think this shape might worsen the noise pollution transfer the house is acting like one large speaker. Smaller the air gap, the more the higher frequencies can resonance right? I am also looking into convincing the neighbours to install some kind of rubber cushion on their front door but I do not what product to use.

I might do that. Omnie said that my project is too small for them to be interested. I understand the thicker the piping, the greater the power and efficiency of the system. The lo pro has only 10mm piping but the Torfloor has 12mm. Not sure if it enough to work about.

Can you send me the name of that data logger model? Thanks

I heard heard that inlet ducts should ideally not be on the north side of a house? is that good advice?

Some allege that it soaks water and reduces its effectiveness and hence should not be used as floor insulation.

Insulated plasterboard is recommended on window reveals on new houses and retrofits as far as I know.

Has anyone tried acoustic grooved chipboard underfloor heating like the Onmie TorFloor RdB? I am interested in installing it as a retrofit in an upstairs en-suite. It is for a retrofit in a newish house with web joists so I presume there will be space to fit all the piping. I am keen to reduce sound transmission from upstairs to downstairs and thus I am interested in this acoustic option. I am a bit sceptical though. The idea that it replaces the sub floor is appealing as I want to lose as little height as possible but will it result in a creaky floor? How can a series of panels not leak sound to below, even if they have mass loaded vinyl, given all the joints? I guess it is only reduce impact sounds rather than eliminate all sound? I guess such an underfloor heating won’t provide massive amounts if heat?