Mr Punter

Unfortunately the left hand side of the C slab is either level or has a fall towards the barn. Have you tested it with a long level and then with a hose?

If you use 120mm Celotex between the rafters you will need another 50mm under to get your 0.15 U-value. You can either hold these in place with a batten, which will double as a service void, or you can hold them in place temporarily with screws and big washers fix your plasterboard with long screws. Make sure you mark the rafter positions very carefully.

That does look very poor. If you did another coat you may have issues with it bonding to this one. You may need to put on some Rendaid or stipple coat first. God knows what to do with the beads. God is not on the forum but @nod is only a consonant away and may advise.

Great job but I am not sure the dog was pulling it's weight...

No. They need to be mains operated. Buy the Aico ones.

I doubt is you will easily be able to establish what loadings the retaining wall can support without knowing the build up, including foundations but if it has been there for some years and is not showing any signs of failure you could assume that it will not suddenly deteriorate. I doubt a concrete base and timber framed summerhouse will make much difference to the loadings. If the wall is going to fail it could do so in any case. It is not likely to suddenly collapse.

It looks like those sockets were cut out with a pocket squirrel.

Apologise and say it was your mistake. It goes a long way.

I have never heard of this before. I see it is meant to do heating, cooling and ventilation. Do they do a system design for you?

The bit this end is the verge cover.

5 replies saying down to you...

Would it be easier to move the stops a small amount? Run a Stanley knife down the paint, block of wood and hammer them into submission?

Perhaps GRP would be a solution.

I think this one is down to you to pay for.

It is often £50 round here to include adhesive and grout for tiling. For the engineered oak, the adhesive is expensive but it is a fairly simple DIY job.

If you stick with wire or chain link you should be able to locate the fence posts so as to avoid any felling. It would be best if you had a straight line, but I appreciate that is not always practical. Try to stick to the line that is marked "fence" on the topo. If you want a solid panel fence then some destruction or wobbly boundary will probably happen.

I really like the recessed look. Did you make the inner leaf opening bigger to get the window to fit behind the brickwork? Did you use a cavity closer?

Oddly I went there last Thursday for a day out. We went to a very good fish restaurant, No. Eight, walked up the steps to East Hill to take in some views then around the Old Town and on to Hastings Museum, which is a fascinating eclectic collection of almost everything. The trains there and back were delayed / cancelled but the journey had some pretty scenery. There were the usual large number of druggies and alcoholics, which really let the place down. Brighton is not much better but it doesn't seem quite so down on it's uppers.

I would avoid running horizontally. If it is a wet room you could have a seamless floor running up the wall by 200mm. I doubt you can easily fill the 200mm at the top with the same material without it looking bad. Maybe some coving to cap the top and with LED uplighters? Might be naff though...

As you are having a hot tub you may need to set aside some space for Pampas grass and an "adult" swing.

Acro either end

I don't see why you can't. Is there a clear path for the airflow?

I have bought a site in the past and the consented house did not fit. It was out by a fair bit. For clarity you could mark up your plan with a minimum clearance measurement to the boundary. We have done this in the past for clarity, as the neighbour claimed that we may not build to plan.

Would a carbon tax on gas and a corresponding subsidy on electric persuade people? I wonder if 5p per kWh would have a significant impact? It would more than double the cost of gas, but you would save a bit on your electric.

With a hole saw I made a 38mm hole in the base for the hockey stick.