Mr Punter

No point as someone in Bristol is distorting the market by hoarding redundant stock.

If the sewer is in the road at the end of the drive you can connect onto the pipe with a saddle connection. You won't need to connect at the manhole.

That is less than 18mm ply so no issue just go ahead.

How are you getting water and electric to the property? It looks like you are up a fair slope. Are you sure you are not able to connect to the sewer via gravity?

You should be using slate and a half rather than slivers. The min width should be half slate. You may need Winchester type cuts at the top where you meet the slope.

Where we are, Southern Water like to pump raw sewage into the sea or discharge into rivers. The quite favour storing it in tanks and letting it go septic first. Criminal.

You will need more insulation than that to pass Building Control. What did your SAP say the wall u value would be?

They often have a couple of holes for fixing. Stainless screws work well.

Yep

Have you tried cutting in 2 passes?

As a courtesy let the neighbours know when you intend to start and how long breaking out the foundation slab will take. Make sure your contractor has at least a lad with a hose to keep down any dust.

The firms that do the install normally have the pump etc and buy the products from a variety of suppliers. They should be able to supply what you want.

Hi @OldYeller It is common for some planning authorities to impose this. It is probably easier to go with it for now and try to remove it either with an application to vary the condition or perhaps your building control body will relax part of the requirement. With the canopy, if it gets picked up on at planning stage, just show it on the plan / elevation and either do not fit or fit something temporary. Regarding the lift, this is often just for future provision, so an area of floor that has been trimmed around so could be used in future (with a fair amount of work) plus a socket at ground floor that the lift could be plugged into. We have been asked to do this in the past but it never happened on site.

I have never seen this and can't even see how you would do it. Just cut some noggins to go between the joists.

I hope @Pord67 was not put off by what the other two pigs achieved...

Probably not as you need special nails for the PPN guns. If this is outdoor decking there is no need to have so many fixings per hanger. Could reduce 12 per hanger.

It depends a bit on your joist depth. You could consider fixing battens to the sides of the joists at the bottom to support the insulation. You would do better with a polythene sheet on top of the insulation as a vapour barrier because the tape may not want to stick properly.

This is only an external deck so BC will not get involved. As @markc says, you can get special screws for hangers but they are pricey.

Use a slightly thicker bed and a course of bricks. You can use multiple lintels to get the width.

Unless you can have a gap of at least 500mm it is better to build up to their wall. There should be no need for a cavity wall. You could build it in 140mm blockwork. Gives you a bit more space.

But that is not what happened. Both went up and both should come down.

Looking at the drawing the bungalow looks more like about 85m2 rather than the 150m2 you mentioned in your first post. This will reduce the cost a great deal and you may well be able to achieve this within your proposed £200k budget.

The short answer is no, the budget will not be enough. You will need at least £300k.

You can get monopitch ridge tiles.

The Ancon stainless ones are expensive but decent spec. They seem to work by making them easy for the SE to specify and the builder to install. They have slots for wall ties and different top connection options. Once they are built in they act in tandem with the masonry. We have lots where there are just skinny piers between openings that would otherwise fail.