Mr Punter

I lose the inner leaf and take the insulation up to the outer brickwork. You could run the hollowcore closer for this area. A 25mm thick upstand of Celotex so as not to cold bridge the screed.

We have often been asked to make some amendments by the planning officer. Can you agree some amendments to the windows at the front? It will get mighty hot in there in the mornings and if they are habitable rooms there will be no privacy and not much space for furniture. Also bear in mind that glazed gables are very tricky for curtains and blinds, so a poor choice for bedrooms. I think you could cut down the glazing at the front by up to 40% and still have a successfully resolved elevation. Maybe just agree to an extension on the current application and get the amendments done tout suite.

That is so out of order. Will your Local Authority tip accept this? The skip firm will obviously be upset if it stays there.

Best check with the lender. The CML Handbook should have all the information but perhaps is not definitive.

Really? All I noticed was the missing toe board on the loading bay, but the scaffold lift is low so unlikely to to wandering around underneath. I would be more concerned when it was loaded out with several tonnes of bricks and blocks earlier and with the broken cement sheets in the skip.

Make sure those cables are not trapped when you board this out. Also it is well worth lagging the pipes properly.

6.7.1 What new home warranty schemes are acceptable to the lender? The following schemes are acceptable BUT YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO CHECK THAT THE LEVEL OF COVER AVAILABLE UNDER THE WARRANTY WILL BE SUFFICIENT TO MEET THE REBUILDING COST OF THE PROPERTY. A calculation will be necessary when the proposed security forms part of a continuous structure: • NHBC • LABC New Home Warranty • Aedis: There must be no more than 20 units in the structure • Advantage HCI New Build Scheme - 10 year structural defects insurance policy for residential property – no more than 10 units within one structure • BLP(Formerly known as Building Life Plan). • Build Zone • Checkmate’s Castle 10 • Global Warranties Ltd - 10 year Structural Defects Insurance Policy • International Construction Warranty (ICW) • One Guarantee • Premier Guarantee • Protek New Home Warranty Policy • The Q Policy - Structural Defects Insurance Residential Policy Last updated: 12/08/2021

Although it is not pretty, is there anything to suggest that the current setup has failed? Also, how did you get access for the photo? If it is easy to access you and currently watertight you could just get the wall meshed and rendered and order some aluminium copings that you could install yourself.

It is a job best done in the summer. We laid 65m of 90mm on a job. It took a few days to coerce it into its final resting place!

The regs in England don't specify a distance. Some you can install indoors!

Whatever you do, don't pay a penny to this chancer.

Make sure you comply with the fire safety bits as your responsibility for this goes beyond building regs. You could just ignore part e and not get your certificate. When was the conversion done?

Amino acid according to Google. I had only heard of it as in monosodium.

You will need to apply for planning consent, building regs, and an HMO licence.

If the humps are only 3mm you will not notice with the 100mm pir over. Like The Princess and The Pea!

The osb will do a lot to stiffen this up but your SE would need to sign it off.

I would be interested to see solutions for heating and hot water in flats and bedsits.

Tricky...

No I am mighty pissed off. Very very inaccessible as well.

I have had a contractor not use the Compriband and their stuff has turned to crumb in 3 years.

I have had big bifolds in the past and they were rarely opened. The best I had were 3m wide in panes, so you had an every day access door plus the open up all thing. The downside there was we did not have a window in the same room that could be opened gradually for ventilation, just a big fixed pane. Sliding doors allow adjustable ventilation and are what I have now. Regarding door height, 2.4m is probably high enough. Do not get them sized near the maximum extremes of what they are able to make, as this will often mean that the running gear / hardware is working at its limits.

Scaffold tower and get Mrs to wheel you along between cuts.

Could it be better to demolish and rebuild so you are not constrained by the existing structure? You would also get the VAT back and have a brand new house. I doubt there would be much difference in the costs.

Yes, for first floor you could bin the 50mm insulation, UFH and 75mm screed. 40mm flow screed would get you nice and level. Towel radiator are all many on here have for first floor heating.

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