Mr Punter

Other than the cost of Stamp Duty, if you could afford to live in the new build while you get your self build underway it could be nicer than living in a caravan.

One other point is that I have seen it recommended that you wind the studs in anti-clockwise, which seemed a bit counter intuitive to me but I guess it is to prevent the resin being dragged up out of the hole.

I have used water from a hose to clean out holes for baseplates on a foundation. It seemed to work well.

I fitted bollard type car charge points to a development, as I realised this would have been very difficult for future owners. There are 14 parking spaces with 7 x 2 gang 32A chargers. So far 2 electric cars plus 1 electric visitor car. I am sure the presence of the chargers acts as a nudge. Passers by all assume we were made to include them to gain planning, which was not the case.

This is why the window people tend to specify low expansion foam, although lots of people carry on with the standard stuff.

You will need to be taking the pipework outside the building as soon as you can, but I don't see a big issue with it running in the insulation. It may be good to wrap it in compressible material so it is properly supported and does not deform.

Some spots are an absolute bastard to drop down and reinsert. If I were the decorator that task would be by "others".

The 110mm pipe should be in a trench bedded in shingle. Can you post up some plans as @PeterW suggests?

That is a lot of full height glazing in the kitchen. Looks nice on plan but can cause overheating, echo (especially if you have hard floors) and glare. The room may not feel comfortable or easy to live with. Lose the chimneys. They are poor for thermal bridging and airtightness and often problematic for water ingress. Also if you are burning stuff it can really affect indoor and outdoor air quality.

You could have galv steel but it needs to be connected at the base and at the top it will need to pick up all the rafter feet that need support, so you will need something fabricated. Tube section / CHS looks good. Is it going where it won't be accidentally walked into?

I am not sure what you had in mind for the tops of the rafters either. Maybe leadwork or have an aluminium coping fabricated that you can install in sections. It looks a tad like a James Bond baddie lair.

Very nice! Did you have to soak the top battens in water to persuade them round the roof?

Is this for the round house? I was trying to work out where this roof is going. Unless you don't have the room you are better to put all the insulation on the top.

Don't start at 1m deep if you can avoid it. Run the drains as shallow as possible allowing for the type of traffic above. 1:60 is acceptable for 110mm pipe. This make inspection and rodding much simpler, as well as easier installation. You can have the gradients steeper if you want to but if you change gradient you should have an access point. The 40m from your last IC to the treatment plant is near the maximum but should be fine as you have plenty of fall.

Unless the handrail is supported independently you will need the glass to be toughened and laminated. I saw on some balconies near me they only had toughened. A panel failed and that prompted the developer to get the whole lot changed.

No. Are you concerned it won't turn up?

Yes I have one for my hood over the cooker. The fan is mounted in the space above the kitchen. I removed the original fan motor from the canopy and connected a TD Silent 500 150 with 150mm rigid ducting, with flexi where it links to the fan. I used a REB 1-N speed controller to operate it but it was rubbish and the fan would stall on low speed. I swapped this out for a wall mount switch. I think the new fans have 3 speeds. I use the lights on the original canopy. The fan is really quiet and brilliant at extracting. You need big ducting.

If the timber balconies make them unsafe they will all need replacing. It is quite a job to get 200 leaseholders to each stump up £4-5k and it may hang over this for years. Walk away.

Duplicate post

You can get a No mar rubber tip for them.

It is down to how porous your soil is. For depth go with the minimum the crate people recommend for whatever the heaviest vehicle will be. Needs to be at least 5m from buildings.

You would normally run some ply up the pitched section and continue the flat roof waterproofing up under the tiles. In your case it will be quite a long up the slope way because you need insulation and build up for the green roof. Not sure is you need a fall with the system you are using? You could do with a detail drawing of this because you have quite a lot going on and need to make sure everyone understands how to make it work.

It can be difficult to get people to sign in and out. If you have CCTV you could not bother. Do a site induction and get each to sign for this and copy their insurance and CSCS cards.

No the glue is snot coloured but your skin goes black after contact.

A lot of his toys are wifi and rechargeable.