Mr Punter

The breather paper is normally stapled to outside of the panels so I suppose you could build panels on the ground, breather paper them and lift them into place. A bit of fiddling where they meet. I think it is most useful for weather protection before the external cladding is complete, so not really that important for you. With your inside membrane, do this as carefully as you can. Return it into windows and doors and down to the floor. If you can marry it up with floor joists, even better.

100% appeal. If you post up the refusal letter and anonymise it you may get some useful suggestions for the appeal. The planning officer report can also prove useful.

Sand / cement screeds (which you have) are normally 60-80mm. Liquid screeds are 40-60mm. Either one is fine with UFH. 30mm is too thin. Are the UFH pipes embedded in the screed? How are the levels at doorways etc?

Why not just use a buff colour mastic sealant?

Been waiting 14 pages for this and the pipe has sunk like the Titanic. Jesus what a let-down! Let us just say that @pocster may be left wanting.

They have similar on Naked Attraction!

Overage will not impact the mortgage, especially as it is at the end of the garden. There are millions of titles with restrictions on development, whether because they are in a conservation area, listed, have planning conditions, have covenants or overage. All fine for mortgage purposes.

Yes screw from the outside 3 each end. You can level this with packers. If you really want to you can use mortar later to fill any gap. I assumed that insulation etc did not matter as this is more like a shed / garage. Can you run them down the outside? Use stainless ones? Def need straps. If you want them inside you can use galv and fix a timber noggin to the rim board to make up the 50mm ish and fix to that.

Often a warranty is worthless.

I am not sure how this will work. Does the WC waste from the family bathroom go round a 90 bend and all the way out to the corner? Is this in the floor zone or boxed in? The rodding eye in the corner of the bath looks hard to access.

That is really no way to refer to sex workers!

Yes. You would need to pack to the same as the other batten. I would either do all in 75 or all in 50. Should be but you need to get confirmed. Often you also need some insulation 30mm? under the SIP roof. Probably yes, but does not happen. I have used Envirograf in the past on 4 storey. Expensive.

The flat roof Velux installs are not the same as pitched roof, but the windows may have some components that don't get used. More info please on what window, is it on a kerb? Did you supply? Is he re-covering the whole roof? Photos.

Definitely easier to sand down some plaster. If you accidentally gouge a bit out you can always fill it.

NHBC have the foundation depth tables where you have trees. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/4-foundations/4-2-building-near-trees/4-2-13-foundation-depth-tables/ They used to have a calculator as well but not sure if they still do. Bear in mind it makes no difference the current size of the tree (unless being removed). The calculation is based on the full mature tree, so if you have a small willow or oak nearby I suggest you remove it before BC are invited to site.

Carefully mark out the rim board and pre-drill clearance holes for the joist locations before you lift it up. Staple DPC to the bottom edge of the rim board. If the rim board lines up with the outside edge of the blockwork you will have 50mm to rest the joists. Fix the joists with some of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/turbocoach-coach-screws-yellow-zinc-plated-8-x-100mm-250-pack/8533x

I think there is a rule of thumb that the cantilever length should be less than 1/3 of the supported section.

You should have a polythene vapour control layer on top of the insulation. The reason for this is because there is a risk that warm moist air from the house could get through the gaps between the insulation and condense on the beam and block. Quite unlikely but ho-hum.

1. You should use the same batten to join the 2 boards. You may find that 25 x 75 give you a bit more meat. If you use separate you may get cracking between the sheets. 2. The settlement tends to be in the floor zones, as timber shrinks a lot across the grain. Not so bad with engineered joists but there is still often a 38mm locating plate and top plate, so could be 8mm shrinkage. If it is only 2 storey you could just go straight over. 3. With the windows, run 25 x 50 batten round the perimeter. Cut the vertical battens for the renderboard short of the opening by 100mm top and bottom so there is no dead zone for ventilation. There are no gaps in the board. The ventilation should be from the bottom and out through the top. Mesh at the bottom and the top, unless it join into the roof vent void. You should fix a fire stop between storeys but this would need to be intumescent so as not to interfere with the ventilation on the rainscreen. Expensive and it often does not get installed on site. As it is not Grenfell you don't have too much to worry about.

All house prices have risen around here. There are more buyers than sellers and most of what is on the market is either crap or sells straight away.

The meter is normally very close to the incoming service head. Moving the service head is expensive and needs to be done by the DNO. You may be able to change the meter to a standard tariff one F.O.C. If you are certain you want the kit in a new location and it won't get in the way during the works you may as well get it done now. A new consumer unit should be safer and will be easier to reset.

Agree 100%. Only a serious accident, death or being reported by someone will prompt a visit. Even then, as long as they have not been stupid or expected others to take avoidable risks they should not have any issues.

I meant put in the foundations that do not need a Party Wall Award, like for the new end wall.

https://resources.hse.gov.uk/convictions-history/case/case_list.asp?PN=1&ST=C&SN=S&SF=IS&SV=2&SO=ADN Mostly these are investigated following an accident, fatality or report from a worker or the public.

You are legally obliged to comply with and assist HSE and fully answer any questions they have. If they pay you a visit just be as helpful as possible and immediately implement any recommendations. If they choose to prosecute they have a very high conviction rate, and the majority will plead guilty to the breach (when they realise that the penalty will be more severe if found guilty in court).